tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88012170633238143162024-03-12T18:11:25.775-04:00Meryl and Me Hit the Road Our travels in and life with a 2011 Roadtrek 190 Popular. An adventure in RVing by two people who have never been inside an RV or travel trailer before but find out of necessity that this is now their method of travel... In addition to our travels, you will find here many how to's about the Roadtrek and RVing in general, presented in a clear and concise way that are easy to follow - why reinvent the wheel when someone has done it before!
DON'T PANIC Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.comBlogger266125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-56057558895081407142023-11-25T18:54:00.003-05:002023-11-25T18:54:31.044-05:00THE ONAN GENERATOR <p> My 2011 Chevy based Roadtrek 190 Popular has the Onan Microlite 2800 KV model generator. Since this model, starting in 2012, Onan introduced a changed generator model - the Microlite 2800 KY generator. Since that model there have been two other model Onan Microlite 2800 generators. The most current - that was never used in a Chevy based Roadtrek - is the Onan QG 2800i. It was not used as it did not exist when RT stopped building Chevy based Roadtreks. It can be installed in a Chevy Roadtrek to replace an older model or as a new install. I am not familiar at all with the Onan that came between the KY and the OG2800i. All are gasoline powered generators. The only Roadtreks that have a propane generator - installed by Roadtrek - are the diesel engine Roadtreks - none of which are on a Chevy chassis. <br /></p><p>In earlier Roadtreks the generator was installed in a cabinet on the outside of the Roadtrek with easy access. Later, Roadtrek mounted the generator under the chassis of the Roadtrek in the rear driver's side of the van. This location is very difficult to access and requires crawling under the van with very low clearance, reaching up on your arms to open an access panel to the inside of the case, and then craning your neck up to try to see inside the generator to check the oil, change the oil, and reset a circuit breaker and replace a fuse - both of which will be covered later in this article. I have watched Onan service technicians get under the van to work on the Onan much easier by rolling under on a mechanic's creeper. This raises them up enough to better reach in and see inside a little better and not be too high to fit under. They roll in from the side behind the driver's side rear tire. <br /></p><p>The position of the generator is rather precarious for the low ground clearance van. A pot hole and bottoming out can hit the generator. A flooded street can submerge the generator. A steep inclined (or declined) driveway can bottom out the rear of the van and hit the generator. Of course, none of these things are good for the generator. Always be aware of the road and what you are going over when driving a Chevy based Roadtrek with the generator on the bottom. </p><p>The differences between the Onan Microlite 2800 KV and KY models are these. The KV model has an owner accessed altitude adjustment for the motor. The owner can do this easily on their own - following the instructions in the KY manual. The KY model has an owner non-accessible altitude adjustment that - per Onan - requires a technician to adjust and the addition of a part. The KY model has a troubleshooting lamp system. The power light on the KY's wall switch flashes a code sequence if there is a problem with the generator. The code sequences are defined in the KY manual. There is NO troubleshooting lamp in the KV model Onan. The KY also has a priming button to prime the generator before starting. To do this the bottom of the start button is pushed in once or twice to prime the motor with gasoline. The KV model does NOT have ANY priming function. Pushing in of the start button of the KY model only shuts the motor off if it is running.</p><p> The new OG generator model is stated to be much quieter than previous Onan generators. It has a different motor than previous Onan models that is not supposed to require the same exercise schedule of the previous generator which was <u>once a month for two hours of continuous runtime under half a load (the A/C in summer or a plugged in electric space heater in cold weather</u>. The installation of the OG model using the same mounting holes under the chassis that the KY, KV used, requires an adapter plate sold by Onan to make the new case holes match up with the previous drilled holes under the chassis. <br /></p><p>The basics of starting the Onan are covered in our article <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/01/the-roadtrek-generator.html" target="_blank">THE GENERATOR found here</a>. The Onan KV <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjUqN2_muCCAxWKFFkFHcL9B38QFnoECBAQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cummins.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Frv-manuals%2F0981-0136.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1vC1osYnr9WbBA1h7-LKQn&opi=89978449" target="_blank">manual may be downloaded here</a>. For the KY manual, I am not finding a current link any longer for this manual. If you would like a copy of the PDF file of the KY manual that I have, please contact me using the Email Us link in the right column of this page. </p><p> There are maintenance items that are listed in the manual that are not to be ignored. They include changing the fuel filter, changing the oil (minimum once every year or per hour schedule in manual), changing the air filter, and changing the spark plug. On RV shop that I took my Roadtrek to for the fuel filter change would not do the job without taking the generator down off the bottom of the van. I did not have them do the job. I then took it to an authorized Onan service center that changed the fuel filter with the generator still attached under the van. If any shop tells you that there is an oil filter - there is NO oil filter. Some authorized Onan shops will do all of these items when they do an oil change. Can you change the oil yourself - yes. The grade oil to use depends on the area you drive the Roadtrek in the most - and there is a chart in the manual that specifies which oil for which type of environment. Changing the oil means doing this on the ground with you on your back reaching up - or on your elbows if you are on your stomach. Checking the oil means removing the oil cap which has a small dip stick on it. Take out the dipstick and wipe it off. Put it back in BUT leave it on the top - do not screw it back down. The oil is checked with the stick on the top of the oil fill rim. To drain the oil there is a drain plug under the Onan. There is a specific torque that MUST be used when screwing this plug back in. Only use a torque wrench when doing this set to the correct torque which is in the manual. I had a shop that did not do this and they stripped threads on the pan. The pan had to be replaced. </p><p>When any work is done inside the Onan inevitably hands working in this tight space are going to hit the circuit breaker handle that is inside the Onan. This circuit breaker is connected to the control board and if tripped or off - when you start the Onan it will start and run just fine bur NO POWER will come out of it into the Roadtrek. The AC outlets will not work, The air conditioner will not start. The TV will not start. The microwave will not start - in fact the microwave is a good place to see if the breaker is tripped or not. If the breaker is tripped and the generator is running the display screen that is always on when there is power to the microwave will be dark and off!. This can happen if you checked the oil or if you changed the oil - or any work was done inside the generator by you or a service tech. The service techs rarely check to see if the breaker is on when they finish working on the Onan. Below is a diagram from the Onan manual of where the breaker is. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6d2xCeO-S2ey8L8R3TFo7CY_gkpH-R4k83Q95XlPxVMA1DbfEE1eMfvhpSiS7vD3JT99kdO3tFzih0O4tvVTF_rFqOpeDp_DgJCTWKQFjwBkL28mGwHndcXtHmxZmfJigZs9-5-IFjKH-rzDRMN3hjkpuJemg4Bc6DXPGtO_xnQS_yZBoJuhe1xZSesmo/s1224/Onan%20Breaker%20image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1096" height="591" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6d2xCeO-S2ey8L8R3TFo7CY_gkpH-R4k83Q95XlPxVMA1DbfEE1eMfvhpSiS7vD3JT99kdO3tFzih0O4tvVTF_rFqOpeDp_DgJCTWKQFjwBkL28mGwHndcXtHmxZmfJigZs9-5-IFjKH-rzDRMN3hjkpuJemg4Bc6DXPGtO_xnQS_yZBoJuhe1xZSesmo/w530-h591/Onan%20Breaker%20image.jpg" width="530" /></a></div><p> </p><p>I have made this big because this diagram should be better and it is not. There is an open space in the area the arrow is pointing at. If the breaker is on you will see a small black handle pointing to the passenger side in that space. If the breaker is off or tripped, you will not see anything looking up from the ground to inside this area. The handle will be hidden when pointing down. Reach in with a finger and feel for it! Avoid the fuse which is also in this open space. When you feel the handle. push it down and then pull it up with your fingertip. Close up the Onan. Go in and start the Onan and check that there is power - look at the microwave display! This is the first thing to do if your Onan is running and there is no AC power inside the Roadtrek!</p><p>The fuse is even harder to see. It is a regular auto blade fuse - not hard to replace. You just have to find it and pull it out. There is a sticker (sometimes) on the side of this open area with an arrow pointing to the passenger side that says FUSE. If the fuse lined up with that it would be great - it doesn't. Feel for the fuse - be certain before you pull it out. WHAT DOES THE FUSE DO? If the fuse is BLOWN the generator DOES NOT START. It does not crank. It does nothing when you push the switch inside which does not light. IT IS DEAD! First thing to do if this happens is check the fuse inside the Onan. If it is the fuse it saves a lot of money and trouble to get the Onan fixed or trying to fix it yourself. </p><p> The Onan uses one half to a third gallon of gasoline in one hour of runtime. The generator will automatically shut down if the gas tank in the van goes below 1/4 tank. This is to prevent you getting stuck with no gasoline running the generator all night. The generator will also shut itself down if the oil level in the generator falls below full. This prevents the generator motor burning itself out. <br /></p><p>If you own a Roadtrek with an Onan you already know that it is loud and it vibrates when it is running. You can feel the vibration in the floor. There is an Onan resonator that you can buy that will quiet the motor noise some. It still vibrates. Some have added rubber cushioning to above the Onan and where it is bolted into the bottom of the chassis and that can lower the vibration. I have not done either.</p><p>Some may have Roadtrek's later generator system - the "underhood engine generator". This is a SECOND high power alternator installed by Roadtrek under the hood and run by a longer and different belt. The belt is not standard to the Chevy and if you have an engine generator it is advised to buy a spare belt and always have it with you in the Roadtrek. What this does is provide generated AC power to the Roadtrek by starting and running the engine. The engine is running at idle which Chevy will tell you is not good over a span of hours but Roadtrek insisted it was not a problem. Is this quieter - only if your engine is running is quiet. There are no vibrations - that is a plus. This does use a good amount of gasoline. Much more than the 1/2 to 2/3 gallon the Onan uses - plus there is a great deal more exhaust that will come from running the engine with more CO to come inside or drift to a neighboring RV. Roadtrek started offering the engine generator to Chevy based Roadtreks around 2015 along with some other advanced electrical system components that previously were tested and sold only on Sprinter based Roadtreks. </p><p>Please get the manual for your Onan, print it out and keep it in the Roadtrek - or put the USB file on your phone or a USB stick to access on your computer when traveling. It goes into much more detail than I have here and it has a troubleshooting chart written out inside. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-84687885429451244322023-10-30T18:10:00.008-04:002023-10-31T00:16:43.433-04:00EMERGENCY WINTERIZING<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB71PS8axNEZNtaQ40oRXexFeBv-zhatUddauxErl_Q144vZ4GTRwwhJC97aN8FLCoHRhFQqtyGagtgvbRl55DeFtDoNZXDzCc5GI10lFUtYDMC7piB4ufLzAlW8lHrmptYpDUg42niiRFTXUIJz4waa4L4t1rNT5bve-klo98mFynRXWHK8V9hZP5B8Ud/s951/DONT-PANIC-FOR-MERYL-AND-ME--web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="951" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB71PS8axNEZNtaQ40oRXexFeBv-zhatUddauxErl_Q144vZ4GTRwwhJC97aN8FLCoHRhFQqtyGagtgvbRl55DeFtDoNZXDzCc5GI10lFUtYDMC7piB4ufLzAlW8lHrmptYpDUg42niiRFTXUIJz4waa4L4t1rNT5bve-klo98mFynRXWHK8V9hZP5B8Ud/w402-h269/DONT-PANIC-FOR-MERYL-AND-ME--web.jpg" width="402" /></a></div><br /> First - <b>THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR WINTER-LONG WINTERIZING</b>. Emergency winterizing is when you find out the weather is going to change dramatically and get cold to the point of freezing that night or the next day and you do not have time to completely winterize before the temperatures drop! If you have time to winterize properly then follow the directions in our article: <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/11/winterizing-your-roadtrek-step-by-step.html" target="_blank">"Winterizing: The Definitive Step by Step Guide." </a> <p></p><p>Something that is important to understand is the weather has changed considerably in the past five or more years. Areas that never got cold or saw snow or ice or had severe storms that bring tornadoes to areas that never had any of this in the past - has been experiencing it all in recent years - and especially in this past year. Thinking that you have never had to winterize before so why start now - well there is good reason to start now. And those who think - it can't happen to me or here - you are betting on the cost of repairs of your Roadtrek if you take a chance. <br /></p><p>Winterizing is necessary when the temperatures will go to 28 degrees or colder for two nights in a row with the days NOT going up to at least 40 degrees or higher. This came to us from a Roadtrek trained RV service technician. It is a good guideline to remember and be prepared to deal with - especially when you find this out when there is little time to winterize fully. IF THE TEMPERATURES DO THIS FOR MORE THAN TWO DAYS IN A ROW OR THE TEMPERATURES DROP EVEN LOWER - AND YOU KNOW IT IS COMING - WINTERIZE FULLY! <br /></p><p> 1) WATER PUMP OFF - Inside open the sink - hot and cold and let it drain out. Open the shower hot and cold side and with the shower nozzle in the sink, let the shower hose drain out into the sink. Flush the toilet. Go outside and open the hot and cold side of the outside shower - let that pour to the ground. <br /></p><p>2) Empty your exterior fresh tank. (It is a good idea to also empty your interior fresh tank, if you have a two fresh tank system (190, 210). The reason for this is you do not want any water inside as you will not be able to use the water anyway as it must NOT go down any drain including the toilet. You could leave the interior tank full if you want.) <b>If you leave water in the interior fresh tank (two fresh tank system) PUT THE <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/02/summer-modewinter-mode-two-water-tanks.html" target="_blank">SUMMER MODE/WINTER MODE VALVES</a> IN WINTER MODE! OTHER WISE KEEP THEM IN SUMMER MODE or the inside tank will not drain!!!</b><br /></p><p>3) Dump your black tank and your grey tank. When done, lift the macerator hose - or the gravity dump hose up off the ground and let any water remaining in the hose to drain out.<br /></p><p>3) Remove the anode rod from your hot water heater tank and empty the water out of the hot water heater tank. (Inside the tank is insulated in foam, but outside behind the hot water tank vent the tank is exposed to the cold so it is best to dump this tank to prevent it from freezing.) </p><p>4) Go inside the Roadtrek. Open EVERY inside cabinet door where there is anything related to water inside - pipes, toilet, hot water tank, water pump, under the sink, and especially the interior water tank IF you have one. </p><p>5) Turn on the propane for your Roadtrek. If it was not on before follow <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/10/propane-part-1.html" target="_blank">this article</a> if you do not know how.</p><p>6) Turn on the furnace. <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2016/11/how-to-use-furnace.html" target="_blank">This is how to turn on the furnace if you do not know how</a>. Put the furnace on HI and AUTO on the thermostat - turn the heat up to a little more than you would find comfortable. If you are not going to be inside the Roadtrek then put the thermostat up to 85. This is going to be the source of heat from keeping the inside of your Roadtrek's pipes from freezing. <br /></p><p> 7) Do not open any windows or and only open the van doors briefly if you must. The heat MUST stay inside. </p><p></p><p><b>DONE! </b><br /></p><p><b>BE AWARE</b> that this will marginally protect the water pipes and the macerator outside under the van. Emptying the tanks will allow enough room inside the tanks that any little amount of water that remains in the tanks will have room to expand if that water freezes. What is in the pipes should have flowed out in the process - but there are no guarantees and Meryl and Me cannot be responsible for any damage that occurs. </p><p><b>NOW WHAT? </b>We are in our Roadtrek with no water or toilet - what are we supposed to do? This involves some prior preparation with a few things that you will need to have with you.</p><p>FIRST - TOILET - Putting RV antifreeze to flush the toilet is not a solution as some believe. We did some experimental research to see what happens when water (even urine) and RV antifreeze mix. <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2014/01/rv-antifreeze.html" target="_blank">The result is frozen solid RV antifreeze that expands just like water. </a>So what to do. This is something that is great thing to keep in every Roadtrek, especially those that have a macerator. They are called by RVer's "wag bags". They are available to buy under various brand names on line or at stores that sell camping supplies - Rei, Cabella's, Bass Pro Shops, Camping World, Dick's Sporting Goods, (at one time Walmart but I have not seen them there in several years) - and Amazon. Get these before you need them because when you need them, without one of these stores nearby, you will not find them. This is the one we have bought and there are always two boxes in our Roadtrek - Reliance Double Doodie Toilet Waste Bags. These are made for camping toilets that basically are just a bucket with a seat. They fit perfectly into the open toilet bowl in a Roadtrek Open the bag, put it in the empty toilet bowl, put the excess on top over the edge of the bowl and close the seat down on top. The bag stays in place. Do whatever you have to do into the bag. The bag is two layers of Mylar each with a zip closure. Inside the bag there is a chemical that turns liquid into gel and a deodorizer. When done close the toilet lid - for liquids there is no odor and one bag can be used several times - it will get you through the night. . For the other you may want to put in a new bag. All you do it take the open end of the bag - close the inner bag and then close the outer bag sealing it tight with the zip lock closures. These bags are legal to dispose of in any garbage container. Throw away the old bag and put a new bag into the toilet. With those with macerators - if your macerator breaks - this is going to make your life easier in your Roadtrek until you can get it fixed. On the last day of a trip on your way home and you dumped your tanks before you started home - these come in really handy when you need to go and don't want to have to dump your tank again when you get home! <br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH2wGvTbTRmNQ0SNa8ufygquFKFgrZDwJvcrGZNSbLNYrmYaS7jIack9Yp8dRI084hv4GM0qMsHvOzGfNhrZcZdoWwGu-WqMAtFvyUohddJW_p07yzUYjaU01FDQqZ1-WDuwggYZf0Y6kBmLYw2oo4hlW9-dlTIuVZca5rDsLxL5JD7salaAJuJQ0MpwU/s795/WEB_00008.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="795" height="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH2wGvTbTRmNQ0SNa8ufygquFKFgrZDwJvcrGZNSbLNYrmYaS7jIack9Yp8dRI084hv4GM0qMsHvOzGfNhrZcZdoWwGu-WqMAtFvyUohddJW_p07yzUYjaU01FDQqZ1-WDuwggYZf0Y6kBmLYw2oo4hlW9-dlTIuVZca5rDsLxL5JD7salaAJuJQ0MpwU/w463-h347/WEB_00008.jpg" width="463" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> That takes care of the toilet. Now you need water. A gallon of bottle water in Walmart store is one dollar US. Buy a few bottles before you leave on a trip when it can possibly get cold - and if you don't there is a Walmart a few miles from just about anywhere. <b>BUT the water cannot go down ANY DRAIN! </b>So what you also want to get is a small sink basin - a few dollars also in Walmart. <b> PUT THE BASIN IN THE SINK! </b>There are usually two size basins - get the smaller one. We found a Sterilite box with a handled lid that fit perfectly in the sink - move the faucet out of the way and it goes right in. This makes it even easier to empty as I cut a hole at one corner of the lid, take it out with the handle and the latches closing the lid on the box and carry it out of the Roadtrek and where you have to take it to empty it - a restroom sink or on the ground outside. All water is poured over the basin or the box and never into the sink to the drain. Wash in the basin or over the box. For thousands of years before inside running water, this was what people did! 😉<p></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYY7-hSAQmMq01dNfOWZwtlLGDojypdnwr2j4XP6VnkOyzJKLIHWVzJ5IrCoFSR11ZBfg-tQiKYcTKgT5ABO_oFEe43J6ZrkZwv0-ozRP3SucpwgTcj2KTyJtYdJpAlJjGvZRe4UJCGuKU7KJh5lQu5woSo96OJqiChX-CGV9ZvQwYP7qEkN7o2M2jkqux/s1306/IMG_3786-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1306" data-original-width="979" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYY7-hSAQmMq01dNfOWZwtlLGDojypdnwr2j4XP6VnkOyzJKLIHWVzJ5IrCoFSR11ZBfg-tQiKYcTKgT5ABO_oFEe43J6ZrkZwv0-ozRP3SucpwgTcj2KTyJtYdJpAlJjGvZRe4UJCGuKU7KJh5lQu5woSo96OJqiChX-CGV9ZvQwYP7qEkN7o2M2jkqux/w280-h373/IMG_3786-web.jpg" width="280" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>That is it! Not a big deal if you are prepared! <b>WHEN YOU GET HOME OR AS SOON AS YOU CAN WINTERIZE FULLY.</b><br /></p><p>If you have a question - email with the link in the right column. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-12027739755210041482023-08-04T18:17:00.002-04:002023-08-04T18:22:55.325-04:00HOW I GOT MY BLACK TANK SENSORS TO READ ACCURATELY<p>The infamous black tank sensors on the Roadtrek are well known for never reading accurately. I found this out soon after I bought my 2011 190 Popular new. I even brought it back to the Roadtrek dealer's service department to have them "fixed" and the RT service tech replaced two of them - which involved leaving the old bottom two sensors in place as he said they cannot come out and installing two others next to the originals and moving the wires from the old ones to the new ones. This worked for about a day and then the same things as before started to happen. When the black tank was empty the monitor panel would read that it was 2/3 full. Then with just a little water added to the black tank the monitor panel would read full. During a single day the monitor panel would change - from 2/3 to full and back to 2/.3 without anything being added to the tank or taken out of the tank. They just did not work! I should add all of the other water sensors did work accurately on my Roadtrek - the two fresh water tanks and the grey tank have always been accurate. </p><p>I tried all the things recommended to make them work. I flushed the tank repeatedly with clean water - still the same. I used various tank additives including borax and detergent and commercial tank cleaners that say they also clean sensors - no difference. I bought a tank wand that attaches to a garden hose that is connected to an outdoor spigot - all brought into the RT through an open door, The wand goes down into the tank - this was a flexible wand (they are not all flexible) because the black tank is not straight down the toilet drain into the black tank pipe. There is an on/off valve on the wand to shut off and turn on the water flow - which is coming out at some pressure. You open the toilet flap and keep your foot on the pedal as if the flap shuts on the wand the flap breaks. You put the wand down into the drain and move it around and up and down to "pressure" wash the inside of the black tank. And if you happen to move it up too high from the hole in the toilet the water from the nozzle splashed on your face. This, too, did not work. </p><p>I eventually gave up as many Roadtrek owners do and on a trip we counted how many days it took us to fill the black tank with average use. It came down to between four and five days which was enough for us to know that once you get to four days dump the tanks. If the days are hot summer days just before it needed to be dumped it was possible to get a small whiff of odor when flushing the toilet when the flap opened. I also found that if you look down the open flap in the toilet with a flashlight when the tank is really full you can see the water coming up from the tank just below the toilet flap. The problem with this is it is too easy to drop the flashlight down into the black tank which is a lot more trouble than just having a full black tank. (I never did this - I put a flashlight on a cord that fit around my wrist.) I have never put a bag of crushed ice into the black tank and drove around. Big RVs say this works BUT if your Roadtrek has a macerator and do this and you are not sure if all of the ice has melted completely - and you try to dump with ice still coming out into the macerator - you will break the macerator. <br /></p><p>Sometimes things happen accidentally - and this article is about one of those happenings. I have not written about this until now because I wanted to be sure it worked. This goes back to May 2019 and started in November of 2018. </p><p>In November 2018 we started winterizing the Roadtrek - using the instructions of my own article - which has become well known. It is always important to keep the black tank's interior wet and I have always put one gallon of water into the black tank during travel season to prevent anything left in the tank from drying out and building up which will clog the output of the black tank. When we started winterizing I knew that since our last trip at the end of October there was one gallon of water in the black tank. We started by getting all of the water out of the fresh tanks and then started to dump the black tank of that one gallon of water. We got a bucket and pointed the macerator hose in - and pushed the macerator button and we could hear the macerator running and there was a spurt from the hose and then nothing. The motor ran - the macerator was not pumping. We tried various things - change the angle the RT was sitting on - nope. Tried turning the macerator unclog handle - it turned with no resistance - nope. And then we smelled burning coming from the macerator and just gave up. It was November. There was no way we were going to get to any RV shop that could fix this and we just would have to wait until the Spring. But what to do about the black tank until then. When I winterize I replace the one gallon of water in the black tank to keep it wet with one gallon of RV antifreeze poured down into the tank through the toilet. I decided that in addition to the winterizing RV antifreeze that went through the pipes to the toilet I would add TWO gallons of RV antifreeze into the black tank for the winter - keeping my fingers crossed that in the Spring there would be no problems from the cold winter other than needing to get the macerator replaced. </p><p>The Roadtrek sat on our driveway like that the entire winter and in late April 2019 we had an appointment at the RV dealer we bought the RT in that is located in Pennsylvania - two states away - for the macerator to be replaced. (There is an article about that in April and May 2019 on this site.)</p><p>An amazing thing happened when the service shop installed the new macerator and dumped the black tank of the two gallons of RV antifreeze. THE BLACK TANK READ EMPTY! </p><p>I figured that this was only temporary and with use the black tank sensors would go back to their old tricks and do what they were so well known to do. We took a trip that July - the black tanks were empty at the start of the trip. The black tank holds ten gallons. With a day plus of use the monitor panel showed 1/3 full - right on what it should be. A day or so more and it went to 2/3. As I said earlier in this article - we calculated that we fill the black tank in four to five days. At the end of the fourth day the black tank went to full. One way to find out if the black tank is really full is to put some water down the toilet as look in the pipe - a little water should in the pipe that the black tank was really full! The sensors worked. We dumped the tanks and they showed empty. Even with the gallon of clean water put down into the tank the sensors still showed empty - as they should! </p><p>I have been putting one gallon of RV antifreeze down into the black tank over the winter and until we dewinterize in the Spring and this never fixed the sensors. Could it be that the two gallons made the difference? This stayed from November into late April. I did not jump to conclusions. The variables from it working and prior - the RV antifreeze and the new macerator. Others have replaced their macerator and still have black tank sensors that do not read accurately. The two plus gallons of RV Antifreeze into the black tank over about six months, I believe, is what has done it! <br /></p><p>After the summer of 2019 Covid arrived, so travel was limited to not at all. We live in an area that was very hard hit by the virus. We were on lock down. There were a lot of deaths. Businesses were closed and supermarkets that were open had empty shelves. But I still had to winterize the RT and in 2019 I put two gallons of RV antifreeze again into the black tank in addition to the antifreeze that went down into the tank winterizing. The empty black tank showed empty when before the antifreeze went in and just the two gallons of RV A/F, it still showed empty. As Covid lessened we took some day trips using the black tank. The sensors read correctly. After dumping it showed empty - every time! <br /></p><p>Recently we used the black tank a lot. It went to 1/3 and correctly after that to 2/3. Before I dumped the tank I added water to the tank and took it to full - and it read full. We dumped the tank - and it now reads empty. I tested this over three years plus - each time winterizing two gallons of RV antifreeze went into the tank between winterizing in the late Fall and dewinterizing in the Spring. The sensors are still reading accurately. </p><p> So what do you do if you want the same results? I do not know that if you vary the time period shorter that the RV antifreeze is in the tank, it will work for you. If you put it in and let is sit for a couple of weeks or even a month or two, I doubt it will work! Put it in over six months and you should have the same results. No guarantees - but if it worked for me - it should work for you. Do I use any "special" antifreeze? No - unless you consider $3.99 a gallon antifreeze from Walmart special. This same antifreeze has kept my plumbing safe over the winter for years. Will it work with other RV antifreeze? It should. </p><p> For eight bucks for a fix?! It is well worth the investment in two bottles of RV antifreeze and no more guessing if the tank is full! I feel I should put steps to this of what to do. OK - </p><p>1) When winterizing - dump your black and grey tanks before you start along with draining your fresh tanks - all part of my winterizing step by step article. This article is found at <br /></p><p>The infamous black tank sensors on the Roadtrek are well known for
never reading accurately. I found this out soon after I bought my 2011
190 Popular new. I even brought it back to the Roadtrek dealer's service
department to have them "fixed" and the RT service tech replaced two of
them - which involved leaving the old bottom two sensors in place as he
said they cannot come out and installing two others next to the
originals and moving the wires from the old ones to the new ones. This
worked for about a day and then the same things as before started to
happen. When the black tank was empty the monitor panel would read that
it was 2/3 full. Then with just a little water added to the black tank
the monitor panel would read full. During a single day the monitor
panel would change - from 2/3 to full and back to 2/.3 without anything
being added to the tank or taken out of the tank. They just did not
work! I should add all of the other water sensors did work accurately
on my Roadtrek - the two fresh water tanks and the grey tank have always
been accurate. </p><p>I tried all the things recommended to make them
work. I flushed the tank repeatedly with clean water - still the same. I
used various tank additives including borax and detergent and
commercial tank cleaners that say they also clean sensors - no
difference. I bought a tank wand that attaches to a garden hose that is
connected to an outdoor spigot - all brought into the RT through an open
door, The wand goes down into the tank - this was a flexible wand (they
are not all flexible) because the black tank is not straight down the
toilet drain into the black tank pipe. There is an on/off valve on the
wand to shut off and turn on the water flow - which is coming out at
some pressure. You open the toilet flap and keep your foot on the pedal
as if the flap shuts on the wand the flap breaks. You put the wand down
into the drain and move it around and up and down to "pressure" wash
the inside of the black tank. And if you happen to move it up too high
from the hole in the toilet the water from the nozzle splashed on your
face. This, too, did not work. </p><p>I eventually gave up as many
Roadtrek owners do and on a trip we counted how many days it took us to
fill the black tank with average use. It came down to between four and
five days which was enough for us to know that once you get to four days
dump the tanks. If the days are hot summer days just before it needed
to be dumped it was possible to get a small whiff of odor when flushing
the toilet when the flap opened. I also found that if you look down the
open flap in the toilet with a flashlight when the tank is really full
you can see the water coming up from the tank just below the toilet
flap. The problem with this is it is too easy to drop the flashlight
down into the black tank which is a lot more trouble than just having a
full black tank. (I never did this - I put a flashlight on a cord that
fit around my wrist.) I have never put a bag of crushed ice into the
black tank and drove around. Big RVs say this works BUT if your Roadtrek
has a macerator and do this and you are not sure if all of the ice has
melted completely - and you try to dump with ice still coming out into
the macerator - you will break the macerator. <br /></p><p>Sometimes
things happen accidentally - and this article is about one of those
happenings. I have not written about this until now because I wanted to
be sure it worked. This goes back to May 2019 and started in November of
2018. </p><p>In November 2018 we started winterizing the Roadtrek -
using the instructions of my own article - which has become well known.
It is always important to keep the black tank's interior wet and I have
always put one gallon of water into the black tank during travel season
to prevent anything left in the tank from drying out and building up
which will clog the output of the black tank. When we started
winterizing I knew that since our last trip at the end of October there
was one gallon of water in the black tank. We started by getting all of
the water out of the fresh tanks and then started to dump the black tank
of that one gallon of water. We got a bucket and pointed the macerator
hose in - and pushed the macerator button and we could hear the
macerator running and there was a spurt from the hose and then nothing.
The motor ran - the macerator was not pumping. We tried various things -
change the angle the RT was sitting on - nope. Tried turning the
macerator unclog handle - it turned with no resistance - nope. And then
we smelled burning coming from the macerator and just gave up. It was
November. There was no way we were going to get to any RV shop that
could fix this and we just would have to wait until the Spring. But
what to do about the black tank until then. When I winterize I replace
the one gallon of water in the black tank to keep it wet with one gallon
of RV antifreeze poured down into the tank through the toilet. I
decided that in addition to the winterizing RV antifreeze that went
through the pipes to the toilet I would add TWO gallons of RV antifreeze
into the black tank for the winter - keeping my fingers crossed that in
the Spring there would be no problems from the cold winter other than
needing to get the macerator replaced. </p><p>The Roadtrek sat on our
driveway like that the entire winter and in late April 2019 we had an
appointment at the RV dealer we bought the RT in that is located in
Pennsylvania - two states away - for the macerator to be replaced.
(There is an article about that in April and May 2019 on this site.)</p><p>An
amazing thing happened when the service shop installed the new
macerator and dumped the black tank of the two gallons of RV antifreeze.
THE BLACK TANK READ EMPTY! </p><p>I figured that this was only
temporary and with use the black tank sensors would go back to their
old tricks and do what they were so well known to do. We took a trip
that July - the black tanks were empty at the start of the trip. The
black tank holds ten gallons. With a day plus of use the monitor
panel showed 1/3 full - right on what it should be. A day or so more
and it went to 2/3. As I said earlier in this article - we calculated
that we fill the black tank in four to five days. At the end of the
fourth day the black tank went to full. One way to find out if the black
tank is really full is to put some water down the toilet as look in the
pipe - a little water should in the pipe that the black tank was
really full! The sensors worked. We dumped the tanks and they showed
empty. Even with the gallon of clean water put down into the tank the
sensors still showed empty - as they should! </p><p>I have been putting
one gallon of RV antifreeze down into the black tank over the winter and
until we dewinterize in the Spring and this never fixed the sensors.
Could it be that the two gallons made the difference? This stayed from
November into late April. I did not jump to conclusions. The variables
from it working and prior - the RV antifreeze and the new macerator.
Others have replaced their macerator and still have black tank sensors
that do not read accurately. The two plus gallons of RV Antifreeze into
the black tank over about six months, I believe, is what has done it! <br /></p><p>After
the summer of 2019 Covid arrived, so travel was limited to not at all.
We live in an area that was very hard hit by the virus. We were on
lock down. There were a lot of deaths. Businesses were closed and
supermarkets that were open had empty shelves. But I still had to
winterize the RT and in 2019 I put two gallons of RV antifreeze again
into the black tank in addition to the antifreeze that went down into
the tank winterizing. The empty black tank showed empty when before the
antifreeze went in and just the two gallons of RV A/F, it still showed
empty. As Covid lessened we took some day trips using the black tank.
The sensors read correctly. After dumping it showed empty - every time!
<br /></p><p>Recently we used the black tank a lot. It went to 1/3 and
correctly after that to 2/3. Before I dumped the tank I added water to
the tank and took it to full - and it read full. We dumped the tank -
and it now reads empty. I tested this over three years plus - each time
winterizing two gallons of RV antifreeze went into the tank between
winterizing in the late Fall and dewinterizing in the Spring. The
sensors are still reading accurately. </p><p> So what do you do if you
want the same results? I do not know that if you vary the time period
shorter that the RV antifreeze is in the tank, it will work for you. If
you put it in and let is sit for a couple of weeks or even a month or
two, I doubt it will work! Put it in over six months and you should
have the same results. No guarantees - but if it worked for me - it
should work for you. Do I use any "special" antifreeze? No - unless you
consider $3.99 a gallon antifreeze from Walmart special. This same
antifreeze has kept my plumbing safe over the winter for years. Will it
work with other RV antifreeze? It should. </p><p> For eight bucks for a
fix?! It is well worth the investment in two bottles of RV antifreeze
and no more guessing if the tank is full! I feel I should put steps to
this of what to do. OK - </p><p>1) When winterizing - dump your black
and grey tanks before you start along with draining your fresh tanks -
all part of my winterizing step by step article. This article is found here - <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/11/winterizing-your-roadtrek-step-by-step.html" target="_blank">https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/11/winterizing-your-roadtrek-step-by-step.html</a><br /></p><p>2) Go through all the steps in the winterizing article through NUMBER 48. Instead of putting one gallon in as specified there put <b>TWO GALLONS</b> IN! Do this with or without a macerator. The macerator has nothing to do with fixing the sensors! <br /></p><p>3) If you have no problem with your grey tank - as I don't - then do not put any into the grey tank. If you want to, you certainly can but unless your sensors don't read accurately in your grey tank there is no need to do this. </p><p>4) That is it! Leave it in until you de-winterize. While it is in the first time you do this you will still see sensors that are not working correctly. Once you dump your black tank in the Spring it should read <b><i>EMPTY</i></b>! <br /></p><p><br /><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-71196404142132642972023-05-26T00:29:00.000-04:002023-05-26T00:29:05.052-04:00Even Whe You Know What You Are Doing , Things Go Wrong<p> Weather here has been jumping from warm to hot and back to cold this Spring. We usually de-winterize in early May but waited until just now - the end of May to de-winterize. As I have said in my de-winterizing and sanitizing articles, what you have to do takes very little time but de-winterizing and especially sanitizing the tanks involves a lot of waiting. We de-winterize on one day and other than pouring the bleach water mix into the two fresh tanks on our 2011 Roadtrek 190 Popular, the sanitizing happens over night, the plumbing and tanks are flushed of bleach on the next day. </p><p>De-winterizing went well. Like many of our readers, I print out my own article on <a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2012/05/de-winterizing-and-sanitizing-fresh.html" target="_blank">de-winterizing and sanitizing</a> and follow along to make sure I have not left out any steps. And I do go back and refer to it throughout the process. Nothing out of the ordinary happened - other than my deciding to wait until the last minute to buy the bleach. Bleach goes bad over a year in the bottle. It turns to salt water and loses all of its disinfectant properties. We don't use bleach much in the house and we buy the bottle just for sanitizing the Roadtrek - so I knew that the bleach we had was from a year ago when we last de-winterized and sanitized the tanks - and kept putting off buying the bleach. I decided that we would start de-winterizing and when we got to the point that we would pour the bleach into the Roadtrek, we would stop and go out and buy a small bottle of bleach. What I had not thought about was stopping meant putting everything away - the fresh water hose, unplugging because I did not want to use the battery to run the water pump, and just get ready to go. So we went. Still all was OK. </p><p> We got home and got out the gallon water jug that we keep that says "BLEACH WATER" on the side and a measuring cup and the new bottle of bleach. Out on the driveway next to the Roadtrek I took the hose and filled the water jug half way with water. I measured out a half cup of bleach and there was no odor from the bleach. We checked the date on the bottle - it was good to some time in 2024. I smelled the open bottle - no smell. Meryl smelled the open bottle - no smell. We stop and wonder what now. Was the bleach bad because we remember the bleach smelling like bleach all the other times we measured it out. It was the correct bleach - it was disinfecting bleach - full strength. I poured the bleach into the water and filled the bottle the rest of the way with water. I put the cap on the bottle and gave it a shake to mix the bleach in the water. Still no smell. What's wrong? If you can't smell the bleach how will you know the bleach is out of the plumbing? <br /></p><p>I was not going to stop - I took the funnel with the plastic tubing attached to it - that we made just for this purpose and started pouring the water/bleach into the front exterior fresh tank through the door fill in the driver's door frame. I then could smell the bleach. It needed the water and to hit the air as it went into the fill hole through the funnel. The bottle go to about 3.4 empty when the water and bleach came pouring up and out of the fill hole - all over the driver's door steps. What was wrong? Then I realized that just running the RV antifreeze out of the plumbing until only clear water came out of the sink, showers, and toilet was really not enough to take that much out of the front fresh tank - and combine that with the rear tank refilling the front tank as the water is pumped out into the fixtures, the front tank was fairly full. Was there a step I missed - no, but there should have been. Before pouring the bleach and water into the fresh tanks, let some water out of the tanks through the low point drain in the front exterior tank to make room for the gallon of water with the bleach in it that has to go into each of the two tanks. I had a quarter of a gallon of bleach water that was not going to fit into the front tank. </p><p> I said something that I can't write here, and got the bleach bottle and the quarter filled water jug and poured in the one quarter cup of bleach for the rear interior tank, topped of the gallon jug with water, capped it, shook it to mix it, and took the funnel over to the rear cargo door with the water fill in the door frame. The funnel went in and the entire gallon of water and bleach poured into the rear tank - which had been refilling the front tank, as it is supposed to do. I got the hose and topped the back tank up with water.<br /></p><p>I got into the Roadtrek, started the engine, and backed it down the driveway stopping short every few feet and then going back forward doing the same to mix the bleach and water inside the two tanks. That was it for the day. We just had to put everything away again. </p><p>This brings us to the next day. The bleach and water sat in the tanks for just under 24 hours. According to the Clorox company when we called them years back, bleach and water after a number of hours turns to water but the bleach smell remains. We could have drained the bleach after about four hours but we were not coming out in the middle of the night to start a process that has the most waiting. This day was warmer than the day before which was supposed to be warmer but was fairly chilly. It was also maybe supposed to rain (which did not happen until the night). </p><p>First thing to do was drain the bleach/water out of the two fresh tanks. Our low point drain on the front tank - the only fresh water low point drain on our Roadtrek - has a screw off and screw on cap. Taking it off means lying on the ground next to the back corner of the driver's door, reaching under the chassis to the cap and unscrewing it which means bleach water pours out all over your hands. We got the cap off - put it where we would not lose it and let the water drain while we had lunch. </p><p>After lunch, the first thing to do is put the cap back on the drain - and do that in the puddle that resulted from the water and bleach pouring out. So far no surprises. They would start soon enough. </p><p>The fresh water hose was hooked up and I filled the front tank with fresh water. We then went to the back of the Roadtrek to fill the rear tank. I pulled on the orange push in plug that caps off the water fill holes- it was off yesterday - no problem. It was not coming out. I pulled on it. Meryl pulled on it. We tried lifting the edge around the cap. No it was not budging. I went to the garage to get a pair of pliers. The cap came right out. On ward! Ha! Ha!</p><p> What happened next is something that has happened in the past at this same point in the sanitizing process - not regularly but has happened. The hose with its RV water fill nozzle went into the fill hole for the back tank with the water running slowly. A few minutes later the water was pouring back out of the fill hole - the tank was empty - but something was preventing the water from going in . </p><p>We have figured that since this mostly happens after the fresh tanks have been filled with bleach and water, a chlorine gas bubble forms inside the smaller rear tank and prevents the water from going down into the tank - pushing it back out the fill hole. There have been times when the water comes out in a gush. This time it was steady stream pouring out. It was time to get out the "gizmo". I made the gizmo years back when this first happened. The gizmo is a hose nozzle with a small diameter. long tube that is fed down the water fill hole to the bottom of the tank so that it will fill the tank with water from the bottom up - under the bubble - pushing the gas bubble up and out and not the water. Up until this time it has always worked. (Here is an article about <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2015/05/interior-water-tank-fill-tube-nozzle.html" target="_blank">first "The Gizmo"</a> and this article shows what happened to that gizmo one winter with a photo of <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2018/06/the-power-of-freezing-water.html" target="_blank">the new gizmo</a> I made to replace it which is what I use now.) <br /></p><p>The Gizmo was screwed onto the hose, the water pressure at the outside faucet at the hose was set low and the tube went down into the tank. I opened the valve on the gizmo and the water started pouring out of the fill hole again. I shut off the gizmo's valve, pulled the tube out of the tank - fed it back in again - tried again - still water was coming out. This was one of those "OH BOY!" moments. If the water did not go into the rear tank we were not going to be able to get the bleach smell out of the tank. </p><p>I stood back and starting thinking, perhaps I was going about this the wrong way by putting a slow flow of water down into the tank through the gizmo. Maybe it was not enough pressure to burst the bubble. I went to the faucet on the house and turned it all the way up. The gizmo's tube went back into the tank, the valve was turned on and the water did not come back up into the tank. The tank filled and we were ready to flush the water tanks and pipes of bleach.</p><p>There was still a smell of bleach in the water as it came out of the sink and the showers. We drained the tanks and went for the third flush. Just an aside - it takes 25 minutes to drain the two tanks through the low point drain on the front exterior tank. It usually takes three flushes. Meryl suggested that we fill the back tank first this time. It sounded like a good idea. </p><p>I was not taking any chances and left the gizmo on the hose to fill the rear tank again. This time no water came back up the fill hole but it seemed like it was taking much too long to get the tank full. Meryl was inside the Roadtrek at the monitor panel. She would check the level of the tank every few minutes. The rear tank was at 2/3 but the front tank was also filling and was at 1/3 full - before we put any water into that tank from the front fill hole. The water system in Summer mode was doing what it is supposed to do - the water was running from the rear tank into the front tank. This was going to take forever. I could have just changed the water valves to Winter mode and that would have cut off the front tank but I was not going to start playing with valves in the cabinet. I pulled the tube out of the back tank, took it to the front tank and started filling the front tank with the gizmo. Water in the Roadtrek in Summer mode does not flow from the front tank to the back tank. The front tank filled quickly. I then went back to the back tank and filled that to the top. </p><p>The third flush resulted in no bleach smell in the water from the tanks. Hooray! The tanks were sanitized! We put everything related to sanitizing and fresh water away. Now, I wanted to dump the RV antifreeze that I put in the black tank when we winterized out of the tank. It could have been left in, but for the first trip I wanted to start with an almost empty tank (almost empty because I always keep a gallon of fresh water in the black tank so that the tank and its seals do not dry out). I also wanted to see the macerator work before we took a trip so that there would be no unwanted surprises on the road! </p><p>We got out the pail that we use to dump the tanks at home. We have no outside sewer connection - they are not permitted in this area. I pulled the macerator hose out (the SaniCon retractable hose we had put on three years ago) and went to take the cap off the nozzle. This is a nozzle that I made for the SaniCon hose as the nozzle the RV shop put on it was a pain to use and the nozzle made by Thetford for this hose would not fit into the opening of the storage compartment where the hose is stored in the Roadtrek. (Here is <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2021/06/a-nozzle-for-macerator-hose.html" target="_blank">the nozzle</a>.) The nozzle has a PVC cap that screws on and off. Meryl took the hose as she holds it into the pail while I push the macerator button. I said to hold the nozzle pointing up as she removed the cap so that anything in the hose would not pour out on her as she removed the cap. The cap would not budge. So I came over and took the nozzle and grabbed hold of the cap and took my turn to unscrew it. The cap would not budge! I tried a few times. It was not coming off. I don't know why. I was last off this past November when we winterized. I went into the garage and came back with a pair of pliers and the cap came right off. We dumped the black tank and finally we were done!</p><p>It was a really good thing that I wanted to dump the black tank because if we were at a campground - and we generally dump on the last day before we leave, there would have been a lot more panic if the cap would not come off. I said this to Meryl later and she agreed! </p><p>So - what you think should go easily and quickly (well, never think or say "quickly" because nothing ever goes quickly when it should), things don't always cooperate and they go wrong! </p><p>It happens! And it is better for it to "HAPPEN" when you are home rather than when you are out having a nice trip in the Roadtrek! <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-15173285124383104512022-08-09T01:19:00.025-04:002023-04-15T15:20:03.511-04:00GETTING UP TO THE ROADTREK ROOF<p> The roof of the Chevy Roadtrek's - 170, 190, and 210 are added to the van to raise the indoor ceiling so that walking around inside the Roadtrek is possible. The height is a little over six feet - and is lower in the bed area by a few inches where the floor is raised and where the air conditioner is the ceiling is lowered by the air conditioner. The increase in height brings the exterior height of the Roadtrek to 8 feet 10" tall. This, according to Roadtrek, includes the television antenna and the lid of the Fanatastic Fan ceiling ventilation van. The roof is made of fiberglass. <br /></p><p>When one needs to get up to the roof outside to do any work - perhaps on the antenna or the ceiling fan, Roadtrek was very clear that the fiberglass roof cannot support full body weight. Their recommendation was to use a ladder to get up to the roof up to your waist and lean over onto the roof still standing on the ladder which would evenly support part of your weight and be able to get to whatever you needed to work on. </p><p>I have several ladders and step stools. The only place that I can store my Roadtrek when we are at home is at the top of our suburban driveway which does have an incline Going up to the roof of the Roadtrek means the ladder is not sitting on level ground but rather at an angle of the incline of the driveway. Going up on ladders is not one of my favorite things and whenever I have needed to go up there I have had Meryl on the ground holding the ladder on the side where if gravity wants to take the ladder down at that angle she is there to stop it. She has been very good at doing this. </p><p>The ladder I used for several years was a regular step ladder that would get me up to the top of the Roadtrek but was rather precarious and with me on the top, top heavy. I never was really happy going up on that ladder to the roof of the Roadtrek - especailly if I had to move around up there to do whatever it was that I had to do. I would first try using one of the step stools we have - one with two steps which never got me all the way up to the roof - so that did not work unless I wanted to reach the A/C vent over the cargo doors in the back of the van. We also have a taller one that got me up a little higher but not enough to get up high enough to lean over the roof. At some point, I bought an extension ladder to be able to get up at the side of my house to outdoor light fixtures or the roof of the detached garage - all of which have level ground to put the ladder on. I tried this ladder with the Roadtrek and it was not bad, but I did not want the metal ladder to lean on the painted roof of the Roadtrek. I bought rubber bumpers that went on the ladder but when they leaned on the side of the Roadrek with me moving around they were going to scuff the roof. That was no good. I got a thick, quilted moving blanket at Harbor Freight, That was a little better but it slid easily on the side of the roof - and when it slid so did the ladder. Not good - as far as I was concerned. </p><p>I said to Meryl why don't they make a really tall step stool. She did not know. I did not know. So I went to find out. I found the ladder in the photo below at Home Depot. This was several years ago and they may not carry this same ladder but they do have very similar ladders. This ladder is made by Werner.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivRHJUygG9ijTEfxwaVZET5cSCmqRVce2l7CtGtKr2FYEUrhXGBzVXPUKxFiIT98bMBG2Wt-ImgAOGAQBneBIDwsr4HfiyjhYmOAB59glf7oukd-OkHeI0zEeTYeXrnuUGeKu7aJhs8zuIiZLvBkWMCm50KLd2JiW5fy8h1MDVmF1eOshOf15erdgTQ/s1280/LARGE-STEP-LADDER.WEB.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="520" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgivRHJUygG9ijTEfxwaVZET5cSCmqRVce2l7CtGtKr2FYEUrhXGBzVXPUKxFiIT98bMBG2Wt-ImgAOGAQBneBIDwsr4HfiyjhYmOAB59glf7oukd-OkHeI0zEeTYeXrnuUGeKu7aJhs8zuIiZLvBkWMCm50KLd2JiW5fy8h1MDVmF1eOshOf15erdgTQ/w260-h640/LARGE-STEP-LADDER.WEB.jpg" width="260" /></a></div><p> </p><p>The ladder takes you up 5 feet 5 inches. One is not supposed to stand on the very top platform which is there for tools. The ladder is very sturdy and even on the angled driveway next to the Roadtek it gets me up to the roof easily - and not as precariously as the regular ladders were. I still have Meryl holding the ladder when I am up on the roof - though I did go up on my own once - not wanting to wait for Meryl to come out of the house to hold the ladder - and it was OK. It does not touch the side of the Roadtrek. I am not tall and I can get up to the roof enough to put myself bending at the waist with my upper body flat on the roof and my arms and hands free to do whatever I have to up there. I will share this - I cannot get to the three windows on the roof from the side of the Roadtrek with any of the ladders I have including this one because it means leaning way too far toward the downward angle of the driveway by how these windows are positioned over the windshield. When I clean these windows I do so the way I wash the rest of the Roadtrek from the ground with an extending pole hose nozzle and an extending pole vehicle cleaning brush. See this article - <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/10/washing-roadtrek.html" target="_blank">https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/10/washing-roadtrek.html</a></p><p> This, of course, is not a take with you when traveling ladder. It is too large to put anywhere inside the Roadtrek - much less even get it inside the Roadtrek without damaging something. There is no need to get up to the roof of the Roadtrek when we are traveling - and if there was, I would go over to the campground office and ask to borrow a ladder. <br /></p><p> I know that some Roadtrek owners will say it is no problem going up on the roof - being up on the roof with full body weight - we do it all the time. My response is "Do whatever you want with your Roadtrek. I heed the advice given by Roadtrek, not to do this." Many of my readers know we bought the Roadtrek new. It is now 11 years old and it still looks the same as the day we took delivery of it. It was a major investment for us and we have to keep it in as best condition we can - so I do not take any chances with it. I think of what "Dirty Harry" said in one of the movies - "Feeling lucky?" - when I hear or read the "we do it all the time". Sooner or later luck is not always with you. </p><p><br /></p><p><b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN OF THIS PAGE.</b><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-27043293269844514002022-06-07T01:44:00.002-04:002023-04-15T15:24:20.099-04:00THE VERSATILE POOL NOODLE AND ITS MANY USES IN A ROADTREK!<p><span style="font-size: small;"> I know - some of you are saying as you read this - "What the heck is a pool noodle?" Pool Noodles start showing up in stores as Summer approaches. It is a swimming float made of molded foam plastic. </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyKuLp5mFeCD3WO_IGwprtIDspqZvbj7jN6G8jzz6N7AorKFaWVZKScNdKDYmYeU-KU-fK0Niaazq7FwPVH0iEop3e8aoeMqJeoPkWCWsvvdRHuXmg9iKzVekl_7tmAFk0mpgg-mfxvr4XDj_WmZYc__XPM5fef-DAL9b5fAU1sH6oCtQa1f6Hhm59g/s3264/IMG_20220606_233537.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYyKuLp5mFeCD3WO_IGwprtIDspqZvbj7jN6G8jzz6N7AorKFaWVZKScNdKDYmYeU-KU-fK0Niaazq7FwPVH0iEop3e8aoeMqJeoPkWCWsvvdRHuXmg9iKzVekl_7tmAFk0mpgg-mfxvr4XDj_WmZYc__XPM5fef-DAL9b5fAU1sH6oCtQa1f6Hhm59g/w640-h480/IMG_20220606_233537.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The photo is a section of pool noodle. They come in different colors and they come in a few diameters. The size I find that is best is two and a half inches in diameter. The length is six feet when you buy it. They cut easily with a razor blade knife. The center of the pool noodle is a hole. The easiest way to cut it is to insert the blade of the knife into the foam and turn the pool noodle holding the knife in place to cut all around to get a section of the length you want to use.</p><p><b>BUT WHAT AM I GOING TO USE IT FOR IN A ROADTREK?!</b></p><p>Here are things we have used a pool noodle for in our Roadtrek - and I often find new ways when I need to figure out what can I use to ? <br /></p><p><i><b>A POOL NOODLE IN THE MICROWAVE:</b></i></p><p>As the Roadtrek drives along there is a lot of vibration inside from the tires on the road surface - bumps, and bounces as you go along. Inside the microwave as you all know is a glass plate that you put what you are going to cook in the microwave on top of. That glass plate just sits inside - and it bounces a lot. Aside from the noise sooner or later if you don't protect it, it is going to break. When we first got the Roadtrek Meryl made a cushioned cloth case for the plate using two quilted placemats and a towel that she stitched into a pouch and put a Velcro closure on to put the plate into. She also made a case for the wheeled plastic rack that sits under the plate to rotate the plate while cooking. She attached the two pouches and they go into the bottom of the microwave. But as we drove the plate was still bouncing around and there are enough noises inside the Roadtrek to not need this one so we needed to fix the plate into place so that it would not move. What did we do? We used a section of pool noodle!</p><p><i><b></b></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEife_ktZ768grAuEIyxHwdr030-opHRtBO_1m-fPTngpJsTYZtTL6NatPhAwpjLxwWW8uk0rzhsbsZ8sgML3IhqMMMNr3bgqWHx1bx5D5H95mtLW1JuaFvgNUswIidC1dNYu3vrS9cNOlrHxtdy2ePbq-xGSMI10PdeMOEneL3QD3YQa2gk5hQP5JZXsA/s1632/Noodle-MicroWave---web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1632" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEife_ktZ768grAuEIyxHwdr030-opHRtBO_1m-fPTngpJsTYZtTL6NatPhAwpjLxwWW8uk0rzhsbsZ8sgML3IhqMMMNr3bgqWHx1bx5D5H95mtLW1JuaFvgNUswIidC1dNYu3vrS9cNOlrHxtdy2ePbq-xGSMI10PdeMOEneL3QD3YQa2gk5hQP5JZXsA/w640-h480/Noodle-MicroWave---web.jpg" width="640" /></a></b></i></div><p></p><p>The section of noodle was cut just a little longer than the height from the plate to ceiling of the microwave. The pool noodle will push into itself and act like a spring when pushed into a space that is just slightly shorter than it. Don't make it too long or you could push the inside of the top of the microwave too much. This works perfectly in our Roadtrek!</p><p><i><b>NOODLES IN THE FRIDGE - POOL NOODLES THAT IS!</b></i></p><p>We want to have cold soda with us when we are traveling, especially when the weather is going to be hot. Soda cans on the shelves in the door of our fridge in the Roadtrek rattle around a lot. There had to be something that would prevent them from moving. AS it happens - the two and a half inch diameter pool noodle is about the diameter of a soda can. I cut sections of pool noodle the height of a soda can. We may fill a shelf with soda cans but as we go along and use up cans the shelf gets emptier - and the cans rattle more - so a pool noodle section takes its place. And one always joins the cans from the start to stop them from moving along the shelf.<br /></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvBlED4f7mQ_3vuKdu3gms8PATl1-FPNurS4zE8r1HHTpJ86VPeDBdToEBFhmuU1b2yFS_kcWBbORCpJs-bWWZTukmZ653nsa4ov_AuD7GZdhDOHUbLcQzX26mX007i9eCIU_5O14FC2gQnUxaw7Y2-Ah9XyhOUXKJd8wOh4LybTWg4VTwNXvDCuGvQ/s2381/fridge-noodle---web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2381" data-original-width="2362" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvBlED4f7mQ_3vuKdu3gms8PATl1-FPNurS4zE8r1HHTpJ86VPeDBdToEBFhmuU1b2yFS_kcWBbORCpJs-bWWZTukmZ653nsa4ov_AuD7GZdhDOHUbLcQzX26mX007i9eCIU_5O14FC2gQnUxaw7Y2-Ah9XyhOUXKJd8wOh4LybTWg4VTwNXvDCuGvQ/w634-h640/fridge-noodle---web.jpg" width="634" /></a></i></div><p></p><p>No more rattling cans! There are other places in the fridge that you can do the same thing. </p><p></p><p><i><b>A POOL NOODLE TO STOP THE FRONT TABLE FROM BANGING INSIDE ITS CABINET:</b></i></p><p>Some Roadtreks have table top that is placed on a leg and it stands in a post in a hole on the floor. Our 2011 Roadtrek 190 Popular has a front table that is on a sliding hinge that goes into a cabinet just a few inches wide and it pulls out when in use and sits on a support that slides out from the side of the wardrobe cabinet behind the driver's seat. The table on its hinge bangs and hits the two side walls inside the cabinet. Talk about loud! So a section of pool noodle to the rescue! <br /></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Lt-H0rKWhhkSnYZUQq39Phjg0tlMYViQv-YOKOCOUDfJ5zgAB-ppt-KvkXAGfH9iuta_xqm5wrY4n2vfSScALmwBMLxdtjhuLOTTEJGGA6jQgx-qd95zRNG3IvANzhpJb5gLLU3WKcmfPHrE8J5UCOdqXf9WiMgWeFddEpp_ALcd73qVOzJnc9cWRw/s2611/Table-Noodle%20-%20web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2611" data-original-width="1958" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Lt-H0rKWhhkSnYZUQq39Phjg0tlMYViQv-YOKOCOUDfJ5zgAB-ppt-KvkXAGfH9iuta_xqm5wrY4n2vfSScALmwBMLxdtjhuLOTTEJGGA6jQgx-qd95zRNG3IvANzhpJb5gLLU3WKcmfPHrE8J5UCOdqXf9WiMgWeFddEpp_ALcd73qVOzJnc9cWRw/w480-h640/Table-Noodle%20-%20web.jpg" width="480" /></a></i></div><i><br /><b> </b></i>There is also no latch on this door - never was since it came from the factory, and on sharp turns, before the noodle took its place standing guard, the table would hit the door and open it - sliding the table out, which at 60 miles an hour around a highway curve can become very exciting - the kind of excitement you don't want! No more since the pool noodle was pushed into place! <p></p><p><i><b>MOVING OUTSIDE THE ROADTREK!</b></i></p><p><i><b>A POOL NOODLE WHEN THE MOUSE HOLE GOES BAD: </b></i></p><p>New owners are going to say - "First its noodles, now its MOUSE HOLES?!" The mouse hole is an RV term for the hole between where the shore power cord is stored and brought outside without having to leave the outside storage cabinet open. It is a hole - with a snap cap on the outside, looks like a cartoon mouse hole in a wall BUT the name is twofold because since the cord is smaller than the opening of the hole to get the large 30 amp socket out with the cord, mice have enough room to walk on the power cord outside, up the cord to the "mouse hole" and walk right into the outside storage cabinet - and from there find their way inside your Roadtrek. (<i><b>EEEK!)</b></i><b> </b>When the Roadtrek comes from the factory the mouse hole unit comes with flaps to take care of that. Over time, however, the flaps fold out of place - no longer close together to keep anything out - and because Roadtrek in all its wonder, riveted everything instead of installing with screws (yeah - rivets don't come loose - but they also prevent easy repairs requiring drilling out the rivets). Ours went bad. I thought so what. Nothing is coming in (and nothing has) BUT Meryl said we need to close this! I thought about it - and, of course, what better than a pool noodle!</p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRhjIKCyOBlgKcPudpY4av2DbXLy1yruQEmnZyg793D6vrzSBF8RoEKEAO1V1syytZB7sIxMenysLUPJr0TGP67T1rIkayC9QREWDS-gMJ9PuY7ou_IIfHrw3go81J1vxpDMZcGf-xjSNEx3aGZC6wyDZNFypGLCEOqdOLC8K7vVaczEujmg0RY5aQUA/s1632/mouse-hole-noodle%20-%20web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1632" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRhjIKCyOBlgKcPudpY4av2DbXLy1yruQEmnZyg793D6vrzSBF8RoEKEAO1V1syytZB7sIxMenysLUPJr0TGP67T1rIkayC9QREWDS-gMJ9PuY7ou_IIfHrw3go81J1vxpDMZcGf-xjSNEx3aGZC6wyDZNFypGLCEOqdOLC8K7vVaczEujmg0RY5aQUA/w640-h480/mouse-hole-noodle%20-%20web.jpg" width="640" /></a></i></div><i><br /><b> </b></i>When doing this you have to get the pool noodle around the power cord - there is no end to just slip it through. I sliced along one side into the center hole of the pool noodle. It just gets pulled open and slips around the cord and is moved into the mouse hole around the cord filling the hole. It has to be slid back - and taken off when pulling the cord back in - and you do not put the noodle on the cord to put in the mouse hole until all of the power cord you need is outside the Roadtrek. Again, the two and a half inch diameter pool noodle is perfect for this - it fits just right - and does need to be squeezed into the hole to fill all gaps and stay in place.<p></p><p><i><b>A POOL NOODLE FOR YOUR FRESH WATER HOSE:</b></i></p><p>When at a campground, the ground can get muddy and you never do know what dog or other animal just came by and added some biological moisture to where you will be dragging your fresh water hose as you stretch it out to empty it of any water when you put it away. I just did not like the idea of the end of the hose dragging along the ground in the mud - and what else. So I cut a pool noodle section and when we are ready to get the water out of the hose as we wind it up to put it away, the pool noodle goes on the threaded end of the hose. Simple - and I know where the inside of the pool noodle touching the hose end has been. </p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR59TqJ2p66mVgqGpno6xS41eNn_P-uF6gjBqTfJD7pJIAfyf8sT6-UzSQmT-6a45WEJZDd5j1N9Zwbk3nJcWIxbGPUEvb0ZUkntUFSptcAueEllwPCEKLcRY4ED4hsFXwq7sAavH8T2U11RV8PpLgB1xVNed3VGPvd5JSsP_eXD0EkGKXlOdW5kMXOw/s2141/Hose-noodle%20-%20web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1461" data-original-width="2141" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR59TqJ2p66mVgqGpno6xS41eNn_P-uF6gjBqTfJD7pJIAfyf8sT6-UzSQmT-6a45WEJZDd5j1N9Zwbk3nJcWIxbGPUEvb0ZUkntUFSptcAueEllwPCEKLcRY4ED4hsFXwq7sAavH8T2U11RV8PpLgB1xVNed3VGPvd5JSsP_eXD0EkGKXlOdW5kMXOw/w400-h272/Hose-noodle%20-%20web.jpg" width="400" /></a></i></div><p></p><p>SO - there you have the versatile pool noodle - every RVer's friend! I am sure you will figure out other uses for them. You may even want one to go swimming with! </p><p></p><p><br /><i><b> </b></i><b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU
READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN
OF THIS PAGE.</b><br /><i><b></b></i><br /></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-49648776270174882432021-10-01T01:04:00.001-04:002023-04-15T15:31:02.265-04:00HOW TO SANITIZE THE FRESH TANKS, PLUMBING, AND HOT WATER TANK<p>This article is a copy of the procedure to sanitize the fresh water tanks, plumbing, and hot water tanks as it appears in our article - <span style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta;">THE DEFINITIVE DEWINTERIZING AND SANITIZING - STEP BY STEP. I have put it in its own article for those who just want to know how to sanitize the the water system in the Roadtrek. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta;"><b><i>THIS IS WHAT YOU WILL NEED BEFORE YOU START:</i></b></span></p><p><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Fresh Water Hose</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Water Pressure Regulator</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Liquid Chlorine Bleach (Clorox or off brand is fine) </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"><i>PLEASE NOTE: There is something called "Splash-Less" Bleach. DO NOT BUY THIS FOR SANITIZING YOUR TANKS. It does not have disinfectant properties and will not disinfect surfaces." BUY REGULAR BLEACH. (Thanks to one of our readers, "Tom" for bringing this to our attention!)</i></b><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Funnel with hose on the end</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Measuring Cup (for Bleach)</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Small paper cups</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Hot Water Tank FLUSH Wand</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Ratchet wrench handle</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">1-1/16" Socket</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-size: 14.85px;">Plumbers silicone pipe tape to put on threads of the anode rod when putting it back in.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;" /></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta;">Drain and flush the hot water tank before you start. </span></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta;"><a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2020/06/draining-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank">TO DRAIN THE HOT WATER TANK (click here)</a></span></p><p><a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2012/07/flushing-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank">TO FLUSH THE HOT WATER TANK (click here)</a></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta;"><br /></span></p><h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400;"><b>SANITIZING THE FRESH WATER TANKS</b></div><br style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400;" /><ol start="1" style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400; margin-top: 0in;" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">TURN HOT WATER BYPASS VALVES TO HOT WATER FLOW. </li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">CONNECT A FRESH WATER HOSE <b>WITH A WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR</b> ONTO THE CITY WATER FILL CONNECTION. </li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> USE CITY WATER LINE TO FILL HOT WATER TANK BY RUNNING CITY WATER INTO THAT TANK. (<b>NOT</b> CITY WATER FILL - REGULAR USE OF CITY WATER) GO TO THE SINK, TURN ON HOT WATER AT SINK. AIR WILL COME OUT - AND THE TANK WILL FILL. WHEN IT IS FULL THE WATER WILL RUN STEADILY FROM THE FAUCET. DO NOT TURN ON HOT WATER SWITCH. THIS WILL BE COLD WATER AND THAT IS WHAT NEEDS TO BE.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">DISCONNECT CITY WATER CONNECT FROM HOSE.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">PUT ONE HALF CUP BLEACH INTO THE <b>FRONT EXTERIOR</b> FRESH TANK. <span style="color: red;"><b>(PRE-MIX THE BLEACH IN A GALLON JUG OF WATER BEFORE PUTTING IT INTO THE FRESH TANK - DO NOT PUT PURE BLEACH INTO THE TANK.) </b><span style="color: black;">A FUNNEL WITH A HOSE ON THE END IS EASIEST TO GET THE BLEACH/WATER MIX INTO THE FRESH TANK THROUGH THE DOOR FILL HOLE.</span><br /><b></b></span></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">PUT ONE QUARTER CUP BLEACH INTO THE <b>REAR INTERIOR</b> FRESH TANK. <span style="color: red;"><b>(PRE-MIX THE BLEACH IN A GALLON JUG OF WATER BEFORE PUTTING IT INTO THE FRESH TANK - DO NOT PUT PURE BLEACH INTO THE TANK.) </b><span style="color: black;">IF YOUR ROADTREK HAS ONLY ONE FRESH TANK - SKIP THIS STEP.</span><br /><b></b></span></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">TOP OFF WATER IN TANKS WITH HOSE.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">DRIVE BACK AND FORTH TO MIX THE BLEACH INTO THE WATER.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">TURN ON BATTERY SWITCH AND WATER PUMP.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">TURN ON EACH FAUCET HANDLE PLUS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE SHOWER ONE HANDLE AT A TIME SMELLING FOR BLEACH TO COME THROUGH WITH EACH. <b><i><u>NOT THE TOILET</u>.</i></b></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><b>NOW YOU WAIT. <i></i></b></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">LET BLEACH SIT IN TANKS FOR AT LEAST FOUR HOURS. LONGER IS OK!</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">DRAIN WATER TANKS.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> <b>NOW WE REMOVE THE BLEACH FROM THE HOT WATER TANK FIRST.</b> </li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> 1) The hot water tank should NOT be in bypass while sanitizing and it should remain NOT bypassed for this process. DO NOT HAVE ANY SINK FAUCET OR SHOWER FAUCET ON DURING THIS PROCESS EXCEPT WHERE AND WHEN NOTED FOR THE OUTSIDE SHOWER HOT WATER HANDLE. DO NOT TURN ON THE HOT WATER HEATER!<br /><br />2) Water pump OFF.<br /><br />3) Attach a fresh hose WITH A WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR to the city water inlet and a spigot outside. Turn on the water.<br /><br />4) Turn on the outside shower hot water handle and open fully - step back! Only the hot water handle on the outside shower should be open. No other faucet or shower handle should be on. As the water comes rushing out of the shower (hose optional) you should smell bleach in the water.<br /><br />5) Allow to run for at least 15 minutes. THIS WILL FILL AND EMPTY THE TANK AT THE SAME TIME - ABOUT THREE TO FIVE TIMES. YES THE WATER IS FLOWING DOWN THE DRIVEWAY FLUSHING THE HOT WATER TANK.<br /><br />6) After a steady flow of water for 15 minutes you should no longer smell bleach in the water coming out. (To test, take a small paper cup , slow the flow of water by turning back the handle and put the cup under the streaming water coming out. Step away from where the water has been flowing and smell the water in the paper cup. You should not smell bleach.)<br /><br />7) If you still smell bleach allow the water to continue to flow longer until there is no longer any smell of bleach in the water. (Use a new paper cup if you test again.)<br /><br />8) Shut off the hot water outside shower handle.<br /><br />9) You have now exchanged all of the water inside the 6 gallon hot water tank several times with fresh water, flushing that tank as many times.<br /><br />10) Remove the hose from the city water connection.<br /><br />11) PUT THE HOT WATER HEATER INTO BYPASS! You do not want to<br />put bleach back into the hot water tank.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> FILL FRESH WATER TANKS AGAIN.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> GO INSIDE THE ROADTREK.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> TURN ON BATTERY SWITCH AND WATER PUMP.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> <b>**</b>TURN ON EACH FAUCET HANDLE PLUS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE SHOWER ONE HANDLE AT A TIME SMELLING FOR BLEACH TO COME THROUGH WITH EACH. <b><i><u>NOT THE TOILET</u> - YOU NEVER WANT ANY BLEACH TO GO INTO THE TOILET.</i></b></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><b><i>IF YOU DO NOT SMELL BLEACH (GOOD!) SKIP TO #23</i></b></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><b><i> </i></b><b><i>DRAIN TANKS THROUGH THE LOW POINT DRAIN.</i></b></li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><b><i> </i></b>FILL FRESH TANKS AGAIN.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"><b><i> </i></b>IF BLEACH SMELL REPEAT FROM STEP #16 AFTER DRAINING FRESH TANKS.</li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;"> DRAIN TANKS OR LEAVE FULL FOR TRIP. </li><li class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">PUT YOUR HOT WATER TANK OUT OF BYPASS NOW SO THAT THE TANK WILL FILL AND YOU WILL HAVE HOT WATER WHEN YOUR TANKS ARE FULL OR ARE USING CITY WATER. <br /></li></ol><br style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400;" /><span face="Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400;"> </span><b style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;">DONE</b></h3><h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #1d0202; font-family: Allerta; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; position: relative;"><b style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px;"> </b><br style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-weight: 400;" /><b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU
READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN
OF THIS PAGE.</b></h3><p> </p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-87518286164329570352021-08-11T01:01:00.002-04:002023-04-15T15:32:35.031-04:00THE HIDDEN FUSE BOX<p> Most know that the Roadtrek fuse box containing the fuses and circuit breakers for the Roadtrek RV appliances and components is on the wall of the Roadtrek next to the passenger side door into the Roadtrek. This is where you will find the main 30 amp circuit breaker for the coach, the breakers for various other 110/120 volt electrical components like the air conditioner, the television, etc.. Also in this box on the wall are all of the fuses for the 12volt components of the Roadtrek such as the hot water heater, the furnace, the water pump, the lights, etc.. In the photo below it is the large black panel below the generator switch, the hot water heater switch and the monitor panel with the battery disconnect switch, the test switch, and the water pump switch. You open this panel by pulling up on indentation in the center, pulling toward you and out. On the back of that panel is a diagram that shows what circuit breaker and which fuse goes to what. (Some Roadtreks do not have that diagram. It is in the manuals of some Roadtreks and apparently in most recent Chevy Roadtreks it was not put into the manuals (why is a good question).) <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwuHr4A-Mdi3ndjDnoDtQWbEjDpklSqUstn34C1XcjyqKtLOVCfKGXe5valSrBJq-SwRP9uJWA2pgT5-i0E4T6dObEdrGkLiYee3kq-occdzQRbo7GLUr2GrdPVGSU5V_P1Mkv9vYVxn7s/s1000/IMG_1469-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwuHr4A-Mdi3ndjDnoDtQWbEjDpklSqUstn34C1XcjyqKtLOVCfKGXe5valSrBJq-SwRP9uJWA2pgT5-i0E4T6dObEdrGkLiYee3kq-occdzQRbo7GLUr2GrdPVGSU5V_P1Mkv9vYVxn7s/w400-h300/IMG_1469-web.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>The above box contains everything for the Roadtrek part of the van. Nothing in this box is connected to anything in the Chevy part of the van. </p><p>There are two fuse boxes that have the fuses for the Chevy. One is in the engine compartment. The second fuse box is hidden. The hidden fuse box is under the driver's seat. If this were just a Chevy Express van it would not be hard to find and get to that fuse box, but when Roadtrek removed the stock Chevy seats, installed swivel mechanisms under them to allow them to swivel around to be lounge seats for the Roadtrek, and then put in Roadtrek's own front passenger and driver's seat, accessing the hidden fuse box becomes a mystery. Like some other parts of the Roadtrek it is a puzzle that is a challenge to solve. </p><p>We have solved that puzzle for you and will give you the steps for you, too, to be able to get to and into that hidden fuse box. Some Roadtrek manuals will tell you that to get to the fuse box all you have to do is turn the driver's seat counterclockwise. That sounds very simple, but it is not quite that simple. </p><p>HOW TO GET TO THE HIDDEN FUSE BOX:</p><p>1) Put the back of the driver's seat straight up. Pull the large handle on the right side of the bottom of the seat. </p><p>2) Remove or move anything you might have behind the seat. In the "Popular" models of the Chevy Roadtrek there is a wardrobe cabinet right behind the driver's seat that is fairly close to the back of the driver's seat. We keep a small folding table behind the seat and I removed that before I did the following steps. The "Versatile" models of the Chevy Roadtrek have a seat behind the driver's seat. If there is nothing on the floor between that seat and the driver's seat, then you should not have anything to remove or move.</p><p>3) Using the bar below the front of the seat cushion, move the seat about half way back on the slide so that it is in the position the seat is in the photo below. You can be sitting in the driver's seat of you can be standing outside the open driver's door, just pull up on that bar and slide the seat to where it needs to be. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkiPgduczC7cs81gHAJ2amkuJdF2kL2G-jKDwKi_8kCod6hBKxdaW-P7zw1tSr5aPuugDkqmC8XmiNkEObijjgetuuPkR4pLPct-dOl2Ux2Eic5ZKHEbJDTIXYeeCfG2XHv4suzYsPjed/s979/SEAT-POS1-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkiPgduczC7cs81gHAJ2amkuJdF2kL2G-jKDwKi_8kCod6hBKxdaW-P7zw1tSr5aPuugDkqmC8XmiNkEObijjgetuuPkR4pLPct-dOl2Ux2Eic5ZKHEbJDTIXYeeCfG2XHv4suzYsPjed/w480-h640/SEAT-POS1-web.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>4) Look again at the photo above. Leave the armrest down. The black handle in the center below the side of the seat facing you looking from the open door inside is the handle that swivels the seat. This handle is on a spring and also is connected to a latch that locks the seat in place so that it will not swivel while you are driving. With one hand or two, pull that handle UP. You will hear the latch unlatch and you will be able to now swivel the seat COUNTERCLOCKWISE - do that the front of the seat comes toward you. If it gets stuck on the curtains that hang down from behind the door post, just move the curtains. Below you see the front of seat facing you! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Nfot-5TFYeonpft8JxDLiK7EyJt05Cx8Y4XfxwMdAWHqSyPCmxPHtQj7ZZrKNP7rmxNE-Zst7z96B4YfODFHKDDYpLfc-VXSRKoAmni42RgAUMlmDW2EqN4FSVS1iA4CEezLni9Qv9FY/s979/SEAT-POS2-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Nfot-5TFYeonpft8JxDLiK7EyJt05Cx8Y4XfxwMdAWHqSyPCmxPHtQj7ZZrKNP7rmxNE-Zst7z96B4YfODFHKDDYpLfc-VXSRKoAmni42RgAUMlmDW2EqN4FSVS1iA4CEezLni9Qv9FY/w480-h640/SEAT-POS2-web.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUV2W3U8QAAmHz404yp3HQ_cGJ3Ncd8YH3pyIn3_Va9topzDTA-Z7hWbEAy2qXzF8ERWPsbCrcz9mbvaAXllGD0UpVUQKOPLJXwFds9UeIf-_nx0nA-oqoRCKUIksXro2BJaEE8824Xix/s979/SEAT-POS3-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="979" data-original-width="734" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUV2W3U8QAAmHz404yp3HQ_cGJ3Ncd8YH3pyIn3_Va9topzDTA-Z7hWbEAy2qXzF8ERWPsbCrcz9mbvaAXllGD0UpVUQKOPLJXwFds9UeIf-_nx0nA-oqoRCKUIksXro2BJaEE8824Xix/w480-h640/SEAT-POS3-web.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>5) In the photo above you can see the slide handle for the seat right below the seat cushion. With one hand pull that handle up and with the other hand push the seat back as far as it goes on its slide. Let go of the handle and the seat locks into that position. If you look to the left on the floor at the black box on the floor - YOU HAVE REVEALED THE HIDDEN FUSE BOX!</p><p>6) The box cover has two clips that keep it closed. They are on the sides at the top - on facing the driver's door and the other facing the passenger side. Reach in under the seat and feel for them. It is a simple move and release clip. They are hard to see and it was not possible to photograph them in place. Release each clip and the cover will come right off. Putting it back on is just as easy. line up the edge of the cover with the front of the box and put it on top and it just gently pushes down and clips into place. <br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FiyIyxRheHm1Bvto7LRZuVv3T6E0WvnTGAEY12bVWP2sgc6dfzNHdtmdy5PdzYOvJXwPH-J76SvAkliMExsDn5xGx0bBVQeREWeDwvgv-GbQD2jL2C5YrxoRwMzguUe4C1Y6ArRtiAOP/s979/FUSE-BOX-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="734" data-original-width="979" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4FiyIyxRheHm1Bvto7LRZuVv3T6E0WvnTGAEY12bVWP2sgc6dfzNHdtmdy5PdzYOvJXwPH-J76SvAkliMExsDn5xGx0bBVQeREWeDwvgv-GbQD2jL2C5YrxoRwMzguUe4C1Y6ArRtiAOP/w640-h480/FUSE-BOX-web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>7) The photo above is the extent of what you can see in the hidden fuse box. You pretty much have to reach in from the open driver's door getting your head and eyes around to see the inside of the fuse box from the floor below the steering wheel. It is far from convenient and very awkward. There is some reaching and eye straining to see and get the the fuses further back in the box. The Chevy Express owners manual will identify what each of the fuses in the box are. There is NO chart on the cover of the box. There are also no labels other than the amps on each fuse. These are "MINI FUSES". There are also what the manual calls "J CASE FUSES". These are You should be able to find them in any auto parts store. These are smaller than the fuses that are in the "Roadtrek side" fuse box. There are also 6 relays and 2 circuit breakers. One of the circuit breakers is for the power seats and the other circuit breaker is for the power windows. Some fuse spaces are left empty. </p><p>8) To put it all back together again just reverse the steps. Use the slide handle to pull the seat back to where you started in Step 3. When the set is swiveled it will continue to swivel until it is facing front to the steering wheel again. To do that all you have to do is swivel the seat back to the front without pulling up on the swivel handle again. The seat will lock in facing the steering wheel. Move the seat forward or back to where you like it when you drive. That is it!<br /></p><p>If you do not have a Chevy Express Manual for your year Chevy Express van - and remember that the Chevy Express is not always the same year as your Roadtrek is, so you go by the Chevy year and not the Roadtrek year as far as the Chevy Express manual is - there are a several websites that have manuals for all cars and vans of various years and they will let you download the manual for free. It is a good idea if you only have a downloaded manual to put the PDF file for the manual in your smart phone or other device you have with you on trips. </p><p>So now you too can find the hidden fuse box and get to it whenever you need it. Let's hope you never have to get to it. 😃<br /></p><p><b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU
READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN
OF THIS PAGE.</b></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-44263188218695892982021-07-30T00:04:00.004-04:002023-04-15T15:33:22.114-04:00A RAMBLING: FIRST DAYTRIP OUT AFTER NOT QUITE POST COVID-19<p> It has been a year and a half since we took a trip in the Roadtrek. We have taken it for two hour drives sporadically while we were on lockdown due to Covid-19 to keep it running and I have been running the engine for thirty minutes every week. It has been to the mechanic twice for inspection and maintenance, and recently had new tires put on. We had expected to be off on a week long trip the week before July 4th. We had reservations made a year ago at the campground we spend that week at every year and attend a festival that I have been attending annually since I was a boy. This year, again, like last year, that festival was cancelled. We were going to go anyway until we saw that the weather was to be high heat and high humidity with severe storms predicted almost daily where we were going. On top of that other places that we go to in the area were running on limited hours due to Covid and some were not open at all. We decided to change the reservation and wound up changing it to next year. But as I told Meryl, we must take the Roadtrek on a long trip even if it is only for one day and back that night. It had to be driven and we had to see that all was working as it should be - as at some point, hopefully, this summer we are going somewhere for several days or longer. We agreed that it would be a good idea to go to where we would have gone at the beginning of the month for the day to check things out down there for ourselves. That daytrip took place this past week.</p><p> Over the past year and a half with the Roadtrek on the driveway we had taken many things that we normally keep in it out. We had to start searching around the house for where they were and get it all back inside. We filled the tanks with water. We went through every cabinet to see what was missing from a list we have of what to have in the Roadtrek. It took a couple of days to find almost all of it and move it back in. Almost all because we have a mystery disappearance. We have three spring extension curtain rods that we put in the aisle under the bed from side to side against the cabinet doors to keep items we put under the bed when traveling. We are pretty sure that we took those out before we took the Roadtrek to have the generator serviced - along with all of the cushions so that should the generator service tech need to work inside to get to connections none of this would be in the way. It came into the house and was stacked on a large folding table. The cushions went back into the Roadtrek at the end of June we assume - as we remember we did - took the curtain rods back into the Roadtrek and put them <i>SOMEPLACE</i>. The curtain rods are not in the Roadtrek - ANYWHERE. They are not in the house - ANYWHERE. We have looked multiple times - EVERYWHERE. Where are they? We do not know. This happens more than it should at our house. Things will disappear - really gone. I check, She checks. We both check, over and over again. They reappear months later just where they should be and where we have both looked many times. There is a folk tale about The Borrowers. The Borrowers come and borrow things - use them for a period of time - and then return them to where they took them from. Well, that implausible explanation is the only thing that could explain the disappearances. We are the only ones in the house - no one comes into the house but us. So The Borrowers have the curtain rods. We have bought new ones - silver color to distinguish them from the missing white ones. Some day we will find the white ones in the Roadtrek where they are not now. We were ready. </p><p> We have been keeping stay at home hours for a year and a half. Up to early morning hours and asleep to mid-day. We started preparing for getting up early a few weeks ago so that when we got up to leave at an hour that would get us the 150 miles to where we were going we would arrive at an hour where we could do things and not be time to have dinner and then head back home. We made it out of the house before 9 am and on our way after turning on the fridge. We thought we might avoid rush hour traffic heading toward New York City which we would loop around but had to cross two bridges to do so but wound up in bumper to bumper traffic - though we avoided the roadwork crews that start at 10:30 am to work on roads that they continually work on year after year - in the same places. Once on the New Jersey Turnpike heading south we were clear. </p><p>Having not driven very much in a year and a half I have found in the past several months of driving more regularly locally that I tend to not drive as fast as I used to. I find myself just below the speed limit which does not make cars around us very happy. This was also my first trip in the Roadtrek that I have to wear eyeglasses to drive - and that has been a bit strange for me. I had to focus on getting up to highway speeds with the Roadtrek as we started out and by the NJ Turnpike I was up there over 65 keeping pace with the rest of the vehicles. Once we got to Pennsylvania, the speed limit goes to 70. I have always found that with the 6L engine in the Roadtrek, it is very easy to let the speed get away from you. And with a speed limit of 70, 80 is just a small push of the gas pedal further. Our Roadtrek holds the road and the speed very well. Too well - and I backed down every time I glanced down at the speedometer. Of course at 75 we were being passed by some very small cars, but that was OK. We were passed by two Class Cs along the way. I told myself that we don't need to prove anything to them. </p><p>We were heading to Lancaster County, PA. This has been my home away from home for many, many years and it always has been my go to place to relax with rolling farm fields and Amish buggies clip clopping along the road. We like to go to a particular farmers market which is a mix of locals, Amish, Mennonites and some tourists. That was were we were heading for the day - and we can easily spend a whole day there. We arrived about three and a half hours after we left - almost exactly what the ETA was from both the dash GPS and my phone's CoPilot RV GPS app. While we have been at home this was where I was missing the most. </p><p>At the end of June, the Governor of Pennsylvania ended all Covid mask requirements. We are both fully vaccinated, but we are both also in two high risk categories so we have maintained caution and we still wear masks when in public. With the Covid variants now on the rise and numbers going up instead of going down, we were surrounded by people of all ages not wearing masks. We were not the only ones wearing masks but where we live many are still wearing masks both inside and outside - perhaps because we live in one of the hardest hit counties in the country from Covid. It was strange to be out there with masks wearing in the minority. That was OK, though, as I was where I wanted to be. Meryl was a little more hesitant. </p><p>The day had to be a Friday for this market to be open and this was a Friday with low humidity and a temperature that was not to go over 82. Finally, a day that was comfortable to be outside. There is little that is air conditioned at this market - some smaller buildings have A/C, most do not. There were some things we were looking for that we knew would most likely be there. Some were and some were not. It was comfortable enough to have lunch outside at a picnic table and the hero sandwich (hoagie,sub, grinder - depending on where you are from) that I bought from one of the stands was one of the things that I thought about all the time I was home and wanting to be here. When it is hot out, we would have gone back to the Roadtrek to eat the sandwiches with the generator powering the A/C. We walked more than we have walked in a long time. It was a good tired. We were there until about 5:00 pm and we headed back to the Roadtrek to go toward the restaurant I had planned to go to for dinner - with a couple of stop offs along the way. </p><p>Dinner was another treat and something I have been looking forward to for what seems like a very long time. It did not disappoint. It is a restaurant that we have gone to many times in the past and one that I did miss not being in this area for so long do to Covid and lockdown. It serves a combination of local Pennsylvania Dutch foods and American together with plenty to eat. It is one that attracts the tourists more than most of the other restaurants that we dine in when in this area, but it reopened following being closed due to Covid - as were the other restaurants in the area closed - with dinner being served later than the other restaurants that we would have gone to that are much more local. <br /></p><p>After dinner we did not head right home. I stopped for gas - which was 20 cents a gallon more than it is at home and a half a tank that I filled cost $50. I like to put gas in the Roadtrek when it needs just half a tank as the total cost on the pump for a full tank is too shocking to see. Even the $50 was a bit of a shock. We then headed to a Walmart that we knew would have things we were not finding at the Walmart at home - and they did. No special reason why other than the Walmarts at home have had empty shelves now for two years. And it delays leaving where I don't want to leave - but I have that feeling even if we have been in this area over a week. We started driving home after 10:30 pm. </p><p>There was very little traffic heading home. When we come home from a trip I go to a local 24 hour gas station to fill the tank of the Roadtrek back up. It is difficult getting the Roadtrek out of our driveway into the four lane, busy street in front of our house, so filling the Roadtrek at the end of a trip at home gives me a full tank of gas to have for our next trip. Miles per gallon for this trip came out to over 17 mpg - that has been better, but it was not bad. We put almost 500 miles on the Roadtrek in just the day, down, around, and back. After the gas station it was almost 3:00 am that we got to the house and then shut the Roadtrek down. </p><p> One of the best things about traveling in an RV like the Roadtrek, even for just a day's outing, is that you have a bathroom with you, no matter where you are. I never really understand those who won't use the bathroom in their Roadtrek. There is not always a convenient place to stop when one is needed and too often if there is, it is not in a condition that one wants to even walk into. Having the Roadtrek during this day trip, it came in very handy. <br /></p><p>Many of our readers have figured out that we don't take the types of trips that many others do. We don't much travel to be in nature - though most of the places we go to are outside. We use the Roadtrek as our traveling hotel room. We rarely cook in it When we travel we eat out. It has always been this way when we travel. If you are on vacation, you eat out. If you are in an area where foods are different from what is common to you when you are home, you go out to try them. So to many, our trips are not that exciting, but they are to us. We are out to relax. We would rather things not be too exciting, as given some of our "adventures" in the Roadtrek that I have written about over the past ten years now, exciting meant problems. We don't want any problems when we travel. It was good to take this trip even for a day. It has been too long since the last trip we took in the Roadtrek and it was an excellent re-introduction to packing the Roadtrek for a trip, getting in and heading off and putting some much needed miles on it after it has been sitting on the driveway with just a few two hour drives for so long. </p><p>The title of this article starts with "A Rambling" and that is what this article has been. Just a rambling on about a great day in the Roadtrek to a place we love to go to. There was no how to do this or that. No how to solve this problem or that. It was just a bit of pleasant rambling. There will be more articles about how to do, and there will be more ramblings. <br /></p><p>Thanks for rambling with us! </p><p>What's next? I wish I knew!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-81660259519619662062021-06-19T12:17:00.009-04:002023-04-15T15:33:57.764-04:00Another Generator Tale and Some Basics to Know When the Generator is Not Working<p> Our Roadtrek has been sitting on the driveway for over a year and a half because of Covid-19. We live in an area that was hard hit by the virus and we pretty much stayed indoors only going out once every several weeks for essentials. Trips that we had hoped to be able to take in 2020 were not possible. Places that we wanted to go to - if we could have gone away had canceled all of their events or just closed. I have been going out to the Roadtrek and starting the engine every week. We took it for a few local two hour drives - out and back to keep it running, charge the batteries, besides plugging in to charge the batteries. I also had to keep exercising the generator for its monthly two hour continuous run with a half load which is either the air conditioner running or in the cold weather an electric radiant home portable heater plugged into one of the Roadtrek outlets. I did this diligently until February 2021 when it snowed here every week and the snow piled up around the Roadtrek and we could not get into it. It ran fine when it was exercised in January and shut off fine as well.<br /></p><p>The second week in March 2021, the weather was getting better. Most of the snow had melted and I went out to exercise the generator. I started the van engine to boost the batteries that are needed to start the generator, put the battery switch on, and pushed the generator start button on the wall inside the Roadtrek. What should have happened was the generator starting to crank, catch, and run. I should have seen the amber light on the switch come on. None of that happened. What did happen was the light did not come on with the switch held in, there was no noise at all - there was no cranking, and when I took my finger off the switch, the switch light did flash on and off once, and I could hear a noise toward the back of the van (where the generator is under the chassis) that went clunk - once. Oh boy! I tried several times more. </p><p>I went into the house to get Meryl as I was going to try to crawl under the back of the can to the generator - something I am not supposed to do because of a physical issue - and try to start the generator from the switch that is behind the access panel on the front of the generator. She came out with me - basically to pull me out if I could not get out from under the van - and I crawled under. I opened the access panel - two push up tabs on the bottom of the panel releases it which is easy to do if you are not lying under the van on your side trying to reach up while still supporting yourself on your elbows. I looked inside and the start switch is right there. I pushed the switch and nothing. This switch has no light but when I released the switch I did here the single clunk.</p><p>There is a 5 amp fuse inside the generator. This fuse is there to protect the generator starting electronics. If this fuse is blown, the generator will NOT start. If I could get to the fuse and see if it has blown, then replace it, the generator MIGHT start. The problem was the fuse is down and behind other components and I could not see it. I could not even feel it when I tried to get my finger down to where I thought it should be. At that point, I could stay under the van any longer and I put the generator access panel back on and crawled backwards to get out - with Meryl's help. </p><p>It was March. Covid-19 was still very much present and we had not been able to schedule appointments for the Covid vaccine. We decided to just leave it alone until we were fully vaccinated and it was warmer to deal with. And we knew it had to be brought into a Cummins/Onan authorized service center. </p><p>By the end of May we were both fully vaccinated and we were trying to get the Roadtrek ready for hopefully being able to start to travel again. I called the generator shop which is in the next county about a 45 minute drive. They gave me a morning appointment to bring the Roadtrek for them to work on the generator. </p><p>We took the Roadtrek to the Onan shop the morning of the appointment. The appointment was for 10am. We arrived at 9:45. Since we were not sure how long they would need it to work on, Meryl drove the Roadtrek there and I followed in the car. We parked in the back of the building where the entrance to the shop is and we walked around the building to the office entrance and let them know we were there. We were told just to wait with the Roadtrek in the back as the service tech was finishing a job offsite and would be back very soon. At about 10:20 or so, he arrived. I explained that it would not start and what it did when not starting. He asked where the generator is and I told him and he said, "I was afraid of that!". He did not like working lying on the ground either. I showed him the start button inside and turned on the battery switch. I also told him that the last time they worked on it, it also did not start which was 2018 and the paperwork I have from that repair said the fuse had come loose. He went to the switch inside the Roadtrek and tried to start it - and it did exactly what I had been doing for me - not start. We told him we would wait or if he thought it would be long we could go and come back. He said either way and we stayed but we had to leave the shop and watch through the open garage door. He went under the van with a work light and in about five minutes I hear the generator start. It has not done that in three months. He shut it off and started it twice more. As he crawled out I shouted into the garage - "Was it the fuse?" He said it was - it was loose. I asked why would it go loose and he told me that is what he would have to find out now. </p><p><br />If you have ever been concerned about the Roadtrek being put up on a lift - what he did next (and I knew this is what this shop does as they did it with my Roadtrek in the past) - would make you cringe as I do every time I see them do this. He got into a forklift and drove it behind the Roadtrek. He centered the fork with the center of the bumper, lowered the fork down and drove under the back of the Roadtrek and raised the fork until it made contact with the bottom of the chassis and lifted the back up about two feet off the ground. Then he went back under. I could not really see what he was doing from that point so I went to sit in the car with Meryl to read an ebook on my phone.</p><p>The car was parked on the other end of the parking lot and after awhile I moved the car and parked it facing the open garage door and the Roadtrek. About an hour went by and he looked like he was finishing and then he put the back of the Roadtrek down with the forklift. I went over and asked him if it was done. It was. This all was just less than an hour including the regular maintenance that I asked be done on the generator. I asked him about the loose fuse and what did he do about it so that it would not go loose again. He told me then that it turned out not to be the fuse. He thought it was at first because when he put his fingers in around the fuse, he was pushing around and thought he felt the fuse seat back in, and then then the generator was able to start. When he looked closer with the Roadtrek lifted up he found a plug and socket that are supposed to be tightly snapped together and not come apart and it is right behind the fuse. When he touched the fuse earlier he had actually pushed the plug and socket close enough together for the generator to be able to start. OK, but I had to ask why would this have come apart. What he told me I don't really accept,but it was working and there was no reason to question further. He told me that when it was all put together originally this was not snapped tightly together as it should have been. I said that was ten years ago and he just shrugged. BUT the Onan started. </p><p>Now, back in 2016 when I first brought the Roadtrek to this same shop to work on the generator, they had to take it down to repair it and took it apart. It is possible that this plug and socket were not tightly snapped back together then and over time with all the vibrating the generator does when it runs, it is possible that finally in January 2021, this connection shook loose. I don't know. As long as it works now - I am fine with it. <br /></p><p>He also did as I had asked them to do, an oil change, a fuel filter change, and a spark plug change. That was all done. I then asked him - and this is the important part of this story, if he tested it under load. He had not. What this means is did he test the generator running with a load - something running inside the Roadtrek powered at 110 volts by the generator - like the air conditioner. He said I could do that while he stood by but he wanted me to bring the Roadtrek outside the shop to do so as he did not want to fill the shop with exhaust. Fair enough, </p><p>I baked the Roadtrek out of the garage, went to the switch and the generator started right up. Then I let it run for three minutes - I usually let it warm up for five minutes before putting on a load but I did not want to make him wait around too long for me to do that so I let it run for three minutes this time, then I turned on the A/C. NOTHING! I knew exactly what was wrong. We called him outside and let him know and he went under the van to the generator and clicked the circuit breaker back up. </p><p>When there is no power coming from the Onan the circuit breaker is tripped - and any work done inside the small space in the generator, a hand will surely find the circuit breaker switch and accidentally knock it down to off. He was under and I thought he had already reset the breaker but had not. I tried the A/C and again nothing. The generator was still running. I plugged in the microwave which I keep unplugged over the winter (just to not overwhelm the Onan when I exercise it every month and in the cold it is harder starting it). The microwave had power. I slid the A/C switch to ON and it started. He had by then reset the circuit breaker. </p><p>SO - the point here is - if you have work done on the generator, even just an oil change, or you do work on the Onan - if there is no power inside with the Onan running - the service tech or you hit the circuit breaker handle and turned it off. That is fairly simple to get to and flip it back up.</p><p>This Onan shop which is a sales and service center for all types of generators from big house and really large worksite generators to as small as the Onan Microlite 2800. We have been there when they were working on a large Class A's generator. They charge $166 an hour labor plus parts. Our job took just less than an hour and we were charged $170. total. This included the labor time, the oil, the fuel filter, and the spark plug. This was a LOT less than we were anticipating. </p><p>The Onan now runs with the push of the switch and we know that if we need it, it is ready. In the next few days I will exercise it for its usual two hours a month with the A/C running to get it back to its usual exercise routine. <br /> </p><p><i><b>A FEW THINGS TO TAKE AWAY ABOUT THE GENERATOR FROM THIS TALE: </b></i><br /></p><p>How this service tech went under the Roadtrek - without it lifted up - was interesting and maybe it is how others do it. He went under with a creeper and went in from the side and not straight in under the bumper (as I go under). This might give a little more ability to move under the low van and if I have to go under I will try it that way. It seems a lot better than going head in from under the bumper and the hitch.</p><p><b>MORE IMPORTANT:</b></p><p><b>1) If your generator does not start, the first thing to try to check is the fuse. The fuse if blown will prevent the generator from starting as no 12 volt power is getting to the generator's starter.</b></p><p><b>2) If your generator is running BUT there is NO POWER coming from it to the inside of the Roadtrek 110 volt appliances plugged in, the first thing to check is the circuit breaker INSIDE the Onan at the front looking in. Reset that breaker by flipping it UP and you should now have power inside the Roadtrek from the generator. </b></p><p><b><i>Of course with both of these - IF NOTHING MORE IS WRONG! </i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b></p><p><a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/01/the-roadtrek-generator.html" target="_blank"><i>Here is a link to our general Onan Generator Article - for much more detail about how it works. </i></a><b><i><a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/01/the-roadtrek-generator.html" target="_blank"> </a><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i> </i></b><b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU
READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN
OF THIS PAGE.</b></p><p><b> </b><br /> <br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-57486225415807727682021-06-09T17:54:00.002-04:002022-06-06T00:53:41.913-04:00A NOZZLE FOR THE MACERATOR HOSE<p> In April 2019 when we had the macerator in our Roadtrek replaced as it had finally broken down, we also had the Roadtrek dealer/service center that we go to in Pennsylvania install a new macerator hose - the Thetford Sani-con hose - that is much more flexible and easier to store in the outside compartment in the Roadtrek that is provided for the hose. When they replaced the hose, I asked them to take the nozzle off the original hose and install that on the end of the Sani-con hose. For some reason they were not able to do that and instead, built a new nozzle from PVC plumbing parts that resembled the old one but was larger. It had a big turn valve on the top to open and close the valve. When put away with the valve closed any remaining water or waste in the hose would not leak into its storage compartment. </p><p>The first time we got to use the new hose and its nozzle was on our trip in July which was only four days. As we were leaving on that trip we discovered a problem with the coach batteries - which is well documented in our articles in the summer and Fall of 2019. We spent the rest of that summer and Fall dealing with the batteries and that prevented us from taking another trip in the Roadtrek that year. Then Covid-19 arrived and changed the world and all of our lives. For a year and a half after that we remained inside with the Roadtrek on the driveway. In November 2020, we winterized the Roadtrek and discovered that the valve handle that was on the nozzle that the service center created would not turn. To get it to turn we used spray lubricant and finally resorted to tools and force to get it to open. Once open we dumped what little was in the waste tanks. We closed the nozzle that seemed to turn due to more lubricant sprayed in and just in case put the nozzle in a plastic bag and sealed it around the hose. A few days later we opened the hose storage compartment and saw that the bag had water inside of it. We dealt with that and left it all to the Spring. </p><p> As it got closer to Spring I started looking at what could replace the nozzle. There is a nozzle that is made for the Sani-con hose. It is a handle piece that attaches to the hose and ends in a graduated cylinder that fits into the sewer drain hole at a campground. On the bottom of the cylinder is a screw cap to seal the hose. This looked like a good idea. It's dimensions, however, seemed big. The diameter of the cylinder at its widest point is 4" - possibly larger as dimensions were not clear in any of the specs for it. The opening to the storage area for the hose and nozzle in the Roadtrek 190 is 3.5". It seemed to me that there was no way that this would fit. I contacted Thetford and asked for the exact dimensions and they never responded. I asked on the Facebook group and no one who replied knew. That ruled out the nozzle made for the Sani-con hose! That brings us to now. </p><p>When we started to dewinterize in May 2021, we could not get the nozzle valve on the hose to open again. Once again with some more spray lubricant and a lot of force it turned, but this was never going to do for traveling. We could not take a chance that we could not dump the tanks because we could not get the nozzle open. We held off dewinterizing until we came up with a nozzle for the hose that not only was going to fit but would be very easy to use - and most important leak-proof. I had an idea in mind and I went to home store websites to look at plumbing parts. I measured the inner diameter of the part of the hose at the end - the hose itself is one inch diameter. The hose end is in an attached heavy rubber coupler. This is what we made for about ten dollars in PVC plumbing fittings, a length of 3/4 pipe which we had, and the most expensive part of the needed supplies - a package of cans of PVC pipe primer and pipe cement - used to glue the PVC pipe together. </p><p>Here is what we made -</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOaNySOlUIjZP3GmyViZmNjIp2lfK514ASrHelzF9CM0nnwcYG1qN5gZ17tDtixw6TpWX4jjODMoQwvqFU7ct1HNAyF-fPMWEKvJ4DnTKpzmxC_RuhxvXY-h-2bgQNkyZT-lsfO-dE82s/s923/Macerator-Nozzle-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="431" data-original-width="923" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOaNySOlUIjZP3GmyViZmNjIp2lfK514ASrHelzF9CM0nnwcYG1qN5gZ17tDtixw6TpWX4jjODMoQwvqFU7ct1HNAyF-fPMWEKvJ4DnTKpzmxC_RuhxvXY-h-2bgQNkyZT-lsfO-dE82s/w640-h298/Macerator-Nozzle-web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>It is not pretty and some of the primer leaked when it went together but it works and it works really well. Most important - it fits in the storage compartment with the hose easily. To explain what you are looking at here. On the left is a fitting that on one end fits into the hose - the end with the barbs. The other end of that fitting which is inside the pipe seal tape is a female screw into end. Attached to that end - which is also under the pipe seal tape and out of view is a male screw end and a slip end on the other side - the white on the left attached to the pipe, that is glued over the pipe. In the middle is the pipe. The pipe can be any length you want. We cut a section of pipe 8" long. On the right side attached to the pipe is a slip end to male screw on end adapter. This is glued to the pipe. On the very end is a screw on cap to seal the nozzle when stored inside the hose compartment. To attach it to the hose you use a screw band hose clamp. This is a strip of metal with rectangular holes that when the screw is turned on the clamp with a screwdriver the clamp gets smaller around the joint on the and compresses into it to make a seal. First you put the clamp open wide around the hose from the end of the hose. Then you push the barbs on the L connector into the hose. Finally, you use a screwdriver to tighten the clamp around the hose and compress it around the barbs inside the hose. The joint is solid and does not leak. The nozzle is simple in design; it is not pretty, but it works. </p><p> To use it = take out the hose, point the nozzle away from you and take the screw cap off. Put the cap aside - don't lose it! Any water in the hose will pour out so watch your shoes. Point the nozzle into the sewer drain hole and have someone push the button to start the macerator. What is in the tank coming through the macerator will be pouring from the nozzle and into the sewer. When done - raise the hose to get any water out of it and put the cap back on the nozzle. <br /></p><p>I have only worked with PVC pipe once before. I do not like doing plumbing. With plumbing, it all looks right and when all together you come back and there is a leak someplace. This is the reason that I made sure there would be no leaks by wrapping the screw joints with pipe seal tape. This is a rubberized tape that sticks to itself - pretty much permanently. It comes on a roll and is about half an inch wide. You pull and stretch the tape as you put it on over itself a number of times. It is the pulling and stretching that affixes it to itself. After it is on you can mold it with your fingers around what it is on. I have used this in the hose to fix leaks in pipes and it lasts. It is sold in plumbing sections of home stores and also in Walmart in the plumbing aisle. </p><p>Here are the parts I used. You will find similar parts in most plumbing departments in home stores. I went to Ace Hardware because they were the only place locally that had the first part I will list which was hardest to find. These are in order of installation from left to right:<br /></p><p>1) Lasco Schedule 80 1" insert X 1" diameter FPT (Female Pipe Thread) PVC 90 degree elbow.</p><p>2) Charlotte pipe Schedule 40 1" MPT (Male Pipe Thread) x 3/4" diameter Slip PVC pipe adapter.</p><p>3) 3/4" PVC Schedule 40 pipe (You can buy two foot lengths of this in Home Depot).</p><p>4) Charlotte pipe Schedule 40 3/4" slip x 3/4" MPT PVC pipe adapter</p><p>5) Charlotte pipe Schedule 40 3/4" FPT PVC Cap (Buy two of these so that you have a spare).</p><p>You will also need PVC Pipe Primer and PVC Pipe Cement - sold in a set of small cans. </p><p>To learn how to put this all together there are basic PVC plumbing assembly videos on You Tube that show how to cut the pipe, join the pipe with the fittings and use the pipe primer and pipe cement. Wear gloves - and not vinyl gloves. The primer ate through the vinyl gloves that I was wearing. It also stains your skin so if you get it on you - wash it off with soap and water QUICKLY.</p><p>The finished nozzle attached to the Thetford Sani-Con hose with a plumbing screw clamp - </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4IpR9_GsQwq68SDDZ6A3zktGeYbn6_lvQuvavsdUizsKBwqLtaZfH_xxZwtQwaa0d7JBiSAfcA4fRttyAbvOin-eQJzxt513tQJ9LuB2-yINpVgNsU7coTexb3V6UoXsga1QVk_yGgICyOHEOxUjmjAPtZgRBACpweLAyEKlgGYqgukfUzQPuTHmSg/s1469/nozzle-on-hose-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1102" data-original-width="1469" height="479" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4IpR9_GsQwq68SDDZ6A3zktGeYbn6_lvQuvavsdUizsKBwqLtaZfH_xxZwtQwaa0d7JBiSAfcA4fRttyAbvOin-eQJzxt513tQJ9LuB2-yINpVgNsU7coTexb3V6UoXsga1QVk_yGgICyOHEOxUjmjAPtZgRBACpweLAyEKlgGYqgukfUzQPuTHmSg/w640-h479/nozzle-on-hose-web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-71008456917871383642021-06-01T00:47:00.005-04:002021-06-01T00:53:04.939-04:00ON FACEBOOK - Roadtrek 190, 170, 210 Support, Help, and Sharing<p> Facebook has been a great resource for Roadtrek owners. I have been a member of a group on Facebook that focuses on the Chevy Roadtreks since it started. The group has gone by a couple of different but related names. The group owner of this group recently announced that since he had sold his Roadtrek he wanted to stop being the administrator of the group and asked for someone to take over the group. I have been the administrator of other Facebook groups for a long time and thought that taking on an additional group would not be a problem for me - so I volunteered. With a lot of thought, I renamed the group - <span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">"Roadtrek 190, 170, 210 Support, Help and Sharing" - as this really what the heart of the group is all about. The group welcomes all Chevy Roadtrek owners plus those who own the older Dodge Roadtreks that shared the same model numbers of their later counterparts - the 190, 170, and 210. The group also welcomes Chevy Roadtrek 200 model owners - a very brief Roadtrek model as well as Roadtrek Chevy Simplicity and Ranger owners (both versions of the Roadtrek 190. We also have members of the group who are looking to buy a Chevy Roadtrek or are just interested in learning more about them. </span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">I emphasize on the group that there is no relevant question that cannot be asked and that all of the members who can help with that question do so, and not say to just do a search to get help. On the group you will read about the good things and the not so good things that happen with members' Roadtreks. We share problems and ask how to resolve them. We talk about modifications we have made and how to do the things one needs to do when out traveling with the Roadtrek, maintaining the Roadtrek, and fixing the Roadtrek when it needs to be fixed. </span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">We have member/Roadtrek owners who are very knowledgeable about Chevy Roadtreks. We have members who are new owners and are just starting out who ask for guidance from the group. We also have members on the group who are looking to buy a Chevy Roadtrek and present to the group what they have seen, the condition one is in, and ask for opinions on whether it is a good buy or one to avoid. </span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">I am on the group just about every day and am happy to answer questions along with the other members. When I thought about taking on this group one of the thoughts that went through my mind was that the group would be a good resource for the readers of Meryl and Me Hit the Road and they will be able to come on the group and interact with me directly. This rounds out how I can help our readers as an added benefit to direct emails from readers - which we love and answer diligently, and questions posted to article comment sections here on Meryl and Me. </span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto">The group needs to grow. We need you to come and join us. We need newbies and the very experienced to add to the great members we already have. Most know but maybe not all do - Facebook is free to join. There is no need to put any personal information down to join - just leave those parts blank. The group is set to "Private" meaning no one who is not a member of the group can see anything on the group. This keeps away any trouble makers. Only members can see the group posts - even when asking to join the group, you will only see an introduction to the group. And once on the group you have access to all of the knowledge on the group including a FILES section of manuals, documents, and other related information files about Chevy Roadtreks. When I come across something useful, I put a copy into the Files section of the group - as do other members. </span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><i><b>SO - YOU ARE INVITED!</b></i></span></span></span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><i><b>COME JOIN US!</b></i></span></span></span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The name of the Facebook group is - </span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;">ROADTREK 190, 170, 210 SUPPORT, HELP, AND SHARING</span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;">THE GROUP ADDRESS IS - </span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/492433434877265">https://www.facebook.com/groups/492433434877265</a></span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></b></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;">I will be looking for you to personally accept your membership to the group! </span></span><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> <br /></span></span></b></span></span></span></div><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span></b><i><b> </b></i></span></span><br /></span></p><p><span class="d2edcug0 hpfvmrgz qv66sw1b c1et5uql lr9zc1uh a8c37x1j keod5gw0 nxhoafnm aigsh9s9 embtmqzv fe6kdd0r mau55g9w c8b282yb hrzyx87i m6dqt4wy h7mekvxk hnhda86s oo9gr5id hzawbc8m" dir="auto"><br /></span></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-36846494999475862142021-05-29T19:11:00.002-04:002021-05-29T19:11:54.126-04:00TIRES FOR THE ROADTREK<p>Tires, even with good tread and good sidewalls have a lifespan. Different brand tires have different lifespans. Our Roadtrek came from Roadtrek with Bridgestone tires. Checking on the Bridgestone website, Bridgestone tires have a lifespan of 10 years - as long as the tires are inspected each year to be certain that they are still good. Each year our Roadtrek is inspected for the New York State required annual inspection by the local mechanic that we bring it to (along with our car) who does has done all of the work on our Roadtrek and our car. I ask him to inspect the tires when he does the inspection. Our Roadtrek is inspected in May each year which coincides with the month that the Roadtrek was registered and received its New York State license plates. While not planned, this gives the Roadtrek a thorough inspection before the start of traveling season.</p><p>I knew this year we would need new tires for the Roadtrek because they were 10 years old. They were in very good condition - and they wore well. I have liked Bridgestone tires on my cars and I wanted to replace the Roadtrek tires with Bridgestones. We have not had good experience with Michelin tires on our cars, but I know many do like them. I went on line and checked on several models of Bridgestones that would fit the Roadtrek.</p><p>The Roadtrek has tires that are LT245/75R16E. LT stands for "Light Truck". R is the speed rating of the tires. The E is the most important in the size - this is the weight load rating of the tire and the Roadtrek must have an "E". There are other 245/75/16 tires that are not E. I discovered looking at tires that to find the tires for the Roadtrek, if you put in Chevy Express 3500 the correct tires do not come up. I also found that if you put in both Chevy Express 3500 and the size you get "This size does not fit your vehicle." I put only the LT245/75R16E and tires came up for the Roadtrek. I saw "All Terrain" and "All Season" tires. I took down the tire names and read reviews and then went to the Roadtrek Group on Facebook to find out if anyone has these tires on their Roadtreks. Some did - and I heard good things about the ones I was considering. One of the tires I was uncertain about as while it should be fine many descriptions of this tire online was that it was an All Terrain tire that was best for Off Roading -and we drive on the highway and never go Off Roading - into the muck and the mire, the snow, the sand, etc. The closest we come is the gravel in the campground RV site or the driving on grass. It was the tire I most leaned to - and one Roadtrek owner said he liked it. More had the other tire I was considering. I was prepared to go shopping. </p><p>I never expected, however, that getting tires for the Roadtrek locally was going to be so difficult. </p><p>The difficulty was not because the tires are not available - they are very available. The problem is finding a tire shop that will install them on a van that is 9 feet tall and weighs over 8,000 pounds. Their shops are not tall enough or their lifts are not strong enough. Now, some reading this will say but X tire shop or Z tire shop did mine and that company is all over the country. It seems though that some of the very popular chain tire shops are not in New York - at least not anywhere near here. The Discount Tires chain is very popular but it turns out the closest one to us is in Pittsburgh is 420 miles one way. That is a little far to go to buy tires - and to drive with tires that are ready to be changed. There is one local tire chain that dominates tires here - and they are in every town, but the shops are small, the parking lots are small - and the Roadtrek would not fit through the doors into the bays. Independents are even smaller shops with even smaller property to bring the Roadtrek onto. I knew from the forums and Roadtrek groups that Costco is a popular place to go to have tires put on the Roadtrek and we have Costco here. I went to one of the Roadtrek groups and asked about going to Costco for tires for the Roadtrek. The response was maybe - as it seems some Costco Tire Centers will install on a Roadtrek and some will not. Oh boy? What would the one here do? </p><p>We are just starting to venture out of the house on a semi-regular basis following our Covid-19 vaccines and do so with caution. As it was, we had to go to the Costco for a few items and while we were there we stopped into the Tire Center and asked the man at the counter. His answer was you have to ask our manager. The manager who was standing nearby talking to a customer came over when he was done and we asked him. I described the Roadtrek - because no one around here knows what you are talking about is you say Roadtrek - as a van RV built into a Chevy Express 3500 van. I told him it is 9 feet tall and weighs 8,000 pounds (which is approximate). He stood there not saying anything and then said that they no longer put tires on RVs - they did up to two or three years ago but they don't any longer. I, again, tried to give him a description of how the Roadtrek is not the image of the large Class A that comes to mind when "RV" is said. He considered it for a minute or so and said, "I have to see it to decide!". hat was better than a flat out "No!". I asked when he would be in, he gave me when he would be there over the next several days and we left. </p><p>The next day I decided we need to find out from him as soon as possible and called the day after that which was one of the days he would be at the Tire Center. It turned out that he was not the overall manager but the Assistant Manager of the Tire Center. (Perhaps all department heads at Costco are "Assistant Managers" but whatever his title he was the man in charge at the moment. We went to Costco with me hoping that he would say yes looking at the Roadtrek and have the tires - and we would be coming home with them on the van. </p><p>When we got there the Assistant Manager who we had spoken to came out and looked all around the Roadtrek. He looked under it. He looked at all sides. He looked at the tires. He stepped back and took photos of it. While he was looking, we were standing by watching him look. He asked some questions and was writing on a pad the entire time. Finally, he said. "I will have to let you know - tomorrow!" Oh boy! Before he walked away I pulled out the paper I printed out from the Costco website that had the tire I was thinking about on it. This was the one that more Roadtrek owners said they had on the group I asked. He looked at it and said, "These tires would be ripped up in no time on this. You need a tire that will last!" My response was to suggest the other tire that I was considering. He said, "That one would be much better. It will last!" </p><p>The next day we got a call from him. YES! He said they will do the install. He would have to put the Roadtrek up using a floor jack to lift the van at each tire to change each one. This was what I had told him both times we had spoken in person. Putting the Roadtrek up on a lift - one that uses the chassis and not under the tires to lift it - needs to be positioned so that none of the tanks, plumbing, etc. is not crushed. This is something most shops do not want to chance. And I would not want them to chance. He told us on the phone that we needed to come in and order the tires and make an appointment to have them installed. We went there the next day in the afternoon.</p><p>This time I bought a print out of the tire he said would be good. We went in and started talking about the install and I handed him the paper. He took it and went into his computer to get more details about the tire. I asked him how smoothly it would drive on the road. He said that since they are All Terrain tires they were more intended for off road - and while they are OK on a highway they would not be as smooth ride on a highway. I told him we primarily drive on highways. I had looked at another tire - the same name as this tire we were talking about but was described as an All Season tire. It had many of the hard wearing characteristics of the tire we were talking about - there was a minor difference in specs. He looked that tire up and said it would be just as good for the Roadtrek and would drive much smoother on highways than the tire that was the All Terrain version of this tire. He ordered four Bridgestone - DURAVIS R500 HD in LT245/75R16E. They were coming from a Bridgestone distribution facility in Allentown, PA and would arrive in four days - a Friday - the Friday of Memorial Day Weekend. He told us that he personally would do the install. They would call us when they came in.</p><p>That Friday morning we got a call. The tires were there - when did we want to come in to have them installed. I took a shot and said - "We can be there this afternoon if you can take us!" Sure - either 3 or 4 pm. I picked 3:00 pm.</p><p>I have written about how long it can take us to back the Roadtrek out of our driveway into the four lane road our house is on. It can take up to a half hour to get a clear break in traffic to back up across the the lanes on our side of the street. It took only fifteen minutes that afternoon - Meryl in the street with a walkie talkie telling me - "NOW!". The weather report was for rain starting at 7:00 pm - no problem at all! We headed over to Costco which is a half hour drive all on streets - the Roadtrek cannot go on any of the parkways that would get us there quicker. </p><p>It was 2:45 when we walked into the tire center and handed the Assistant Manager the keys. We would go into Costco and walk around while the tires were installed. I asked about how long and he told us about two to two and a half hours - because he had to use the floor jack. OK.</p><p>I set a timer on my phone to go off in two hours. We walked around the store in those two hours - some of it through parts of the store we had walked earlier again. We went outside to see what was happening. I did not want to go into the Tire Center - we could see where we parked the Roadtrek and into the garage from a distance. As we got outside it was raining. So much for 7 pm! The Roadtrek was no longer in the parking lot. It was in a bay in the garage being worked on. We went back into the store to walk around - some more! I set my phone alarm to go off in another hour. </p><p>Before Covid, it would not be hard to waste time in Costco. There would be food samples being given out. The snack bar/lunch counter would have tables set up all around to bring a hot dog, soda, pizza, etc. to a table to eat - but with Covid-19, the tables were all removed and the snack/lunch bar became take out only. While it is open like this, there is no place to sit. In fact there is no place to sit in the store. We kept walking. </p><p>The alarm went off - now three hours after we arrived. We were very tired of walking. We went back outside and it was raining harder. Now there was a white Sprinter van sitting next to the Roadtrek in the next bay - just as tall - but it did not look like an RV conversion. The Roadtrek was not finished yet. We went into the Tire Center and there was a young man at the counter. We asked about the Roadtrek - he said that it takes a long time. We asked if they had our cell number to call us when it was ready. He looked up our service ticket on the computer and read us our home number. I said if he calls us on that to tell us it is ready, we will not be there because we are in the store! He took down the cell number. </p><p>We returned to the store wondering when store security would come over to question us for wandering around the store for more than three hours. This time I did not set the timer - I set the stopwatch on the phone going to see when we got the call to come and get the Roadtrek. We continued walking through the store. At a half hour I could not walk around the store any longer. We had not gotten a call and we left the store and walked into the tire center. We saw that the rain had gotten worse. As we went through the door to the tire center we saw the young man standing at the counter holding up the keys to give us. I just smiled. I did not ask why he had not called us. I just wanted to see the Roadtrek with its new tires. and go home. I asked where it was parked. He told us. We went out into the rain and ran through the rain to the Roadtrek - Meryl got in and I walked quickly around to see the tires. They were hard to see in the rain. It was 7:00 pm as we were driving home. </p><p>I do not know why it took this long. I can tell you just about where everything you might be looking for is located at this Costco. It will be awhile before I want to go to shop in a Costco. </p><p>They did us a favor putting the tires on the Roadtrek when they don't usually do this. We are very happy that we were able to get tires put on and they are good tires. They rode very well driving home in the heavy pouring rain and it was a smooth ride. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-35011149155321767262021-05-26T01:24:00.008-04:002021-05-26T19:41:06.439-04:00THE WATER PUMP KEEPS RUNNING! <p>The water pump is what pumps the water from your fresh tank(s) into the plumbing in the Roadtrek. THE water pump is 12 volts. It uses the coach battery(ies) to work. Before you turn on the water pump you must turn on the battery switch. </p><p>Normally, when you turn on the water pump switch on the wall inside the Roadtrek you will hear the water pump turn on and then shut off right away. It should stay off until you either open a faucet handle, a shower handle, or flush the toilet. Then you will hear the water pump start to pump water to the faucet, shower, or toilet. It will keep running - as it should - until you turn off the handle to the faucet or shower, or take you foot off the flush pedal on the toilet. Then the water pump shuts off and waits for the next open faucet, etc. There is a sensor in the water pump that starts the pump when there is a demand for water. If your hot water tank is empty and you fill your fresh tanks, the hot water tank will fill the first time you turn on the water pump and open a hot water faucet handle. What will happen then is the water pump will start and it will seem like it is running for a long time. First any water left in the sink hot water pipe will come out (cold) and along with it a burst of air. That burst of air is the water pump starting to pump cold water into the hot water tank to fill it and the air it is displacing in the tank is coming out through the open sink hot water side. The hot water tank holds 6 gallons of water and it takes awhile to pump that much water into the tank - and it must fill the tank. This is all normal and with an empty hot water tank being filled the wait for the water pump to shut off is normal. When the water starts coming out of the faucet steadily the tank is full and then you shut off the hot water handle and the water pump will shut off. (Never turn on the hot water heater switch if there is an empty hot water tank - you will burn out the hot water heater. Wait until the hot water tank is FULL! -And it take awhile for the water to heat up - 6 gallons is a lot of water to heat.)</p><p>If something is wrong , however, the water pump might run when it shouldn't. First, understand that to for the water pump to run - correctly or not correctly - THERE MUST BE POWER TO THE WATER PUMP - SO - if the water pump wall switch is OFF - the water pump will be off and stay off. There are two things that you might find happening.</p><p>1) The water pump runs and runs and does not shut off.</p><p>2) The water pump runs for a few seconds, shuts off, starts running again, and repeats this cycle of runs, shuts off, runs, shuts off - and keeps doing that. </p><p> Each of these happen under different issues with the plumbing. </p><p>Let's look at #1 first. If the pump runs continually - not run, stop - run, stop - then there is a problem between the tanks and the pump. This means the problem is on the INTAKE side of the pump. The pipes to the fresh tank(s) are on the intake side of the water pump. <i>(Note - this does not include the hot water tank. The hot water tank is on the OUTPUT side of the water pump.) </i>With the tanks in summer mode or in a one water tank Roadtrek, this means that the problem is between the exterior fresh tank in the front of the bottom of the van and the water pump. If a two fresh tank Roadtrek is in WINTER Mode - which is set to have water come from the rear interior tank directly to the water pump - then the problem is between the water pump and the rear interior tank plumbing. (See our article <a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/02/summer-modewinter-mode-two-water-tanks.html" target="_blank">Summer Mode/Winter Mode</a> to understand what this is.) </p><p>What then should you do or look for? </p><p>SHUT OFF THE WATER PUMP SWITCH - that cuts off the power and stops the pump while you try to diagnose or fix the problem.<br /></p><p> This can be caused by as simple as a dirty filter on the water pump or more complicated a kinked pipe or something blocking the fresh tank output - or, again, simple - the fresh tank is empty. </p><p> The filter is the first thing to look for. Go to the cabinet with the water pump and look around for a black connection in the pipe going into the water pump intake side. In the middle of that black connector on top of it there is a clear/whitish flat topped dome. That is the filter. Here is a photo of what to look for: <br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAILqndNH5mSBSShYivWIPLYv0lKeyqMraBNPkEP8XRC4nGKubb5hQqIW58YYXBZYAOB-7JAAsXPkv0GhvNiWka9NmMnHgFCuKA9ZqKpz5PbXgjK_6CShOiGgrzjtnRCsQKZvk7IgnOkHB/s942/IMG_3714-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="914" data-original-width="942" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAILqndNH5mSBSShYivWIPLYv0lKeyqMraBNPkEP8XRC4nGKubb5hQqIW58YYXBZYAOB-7JAAsXPkv0GhvNiWka9NmMnHgFCuKA9ZqKpz5PbXgjK_6CShOiGgrzjtnRCsQKZvk7IgnOkHB/s320/IMG_3714-web.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>THERE ARE OLDER ROADTREKS THAT HAVE THE WATER PUMP FILTER ON THE OUTSIDE AND UNDER THE VAN NEAR WHERE THE FRONT EXTERIOR FRESH TANK LOW POINT DRAIN IS ON THE PIPE COMING OUT OF THE TANK AND HEADING INSIDE THE VAN TO THE WATER PUMP. IT MAY NOT LOOK ANYTHING AT ALL LIKE THIS AND YOU WILL HAVE TO LOOK UNDER THE VAN TO SEE WHAT IS THERE. SO IF YOU DO NOT FIND THE ABOVE IN YOUR ROADTREK NEAR THE WATER PUMP IT IS OUTSIDE. <br /></p><p>In my Roadtrek this is connected to the winterizing valve that I had installed to pump RV antifreeze directly into the water pump for winterizing the plumbing in the Roadtrek. This is what it all looks lime in my Roadtrek 190 - yours will not have the brass valve on the right side of the filter. It will have a white PEX pipe connected to that side that comes from the water tanks' connections. The pipe on the other side, not seen in this photo goes into the water pump. What you do see in this photo when compared to the photo above is that with use, the dome turns a milky white in color.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkuQth6GcSnJfcy4zu5rlFK9yJXqOeNfV3rVaAAs18iPpwsk4WDS03U3kd3vl22Sb5oYGQM3IAhiSdnFoH_3i68aBGql34clfR5N7LPu1YPGv6tunkh56yOYgg6nt3jpRRSoN6OYpZaoF/s800/WEB_00005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkuQth6GcSnJfcy4zu5rlFK9yJXqOeNfV3rVaAAs18iPpwsk4WDS03U3kd3vl22Sb5oYGQM3IAhiSdnFoH_3i68aBGql34clfR5N7LPu1YPGv6tunkh56yOYgg6nt3jpRRSoN6OYpZaoF/w391-h310/WEB_00005.jpg" width="391" /></a></div><p></p><p>Shut off the pump. Open the sink to clear any water out of the line. Opening the filter will pour out some water so put a towel under it. The dome screws off. </p><p>Inside around the inside edge there is a metal screen that goes all around. That metal screen pulls out. Do this where you can flush this all with water - and not let what is in the filter go down any drain - in the RT or in the house. Clean the metal screen and clean the inside of the dome. Look into the hole left open where the filter was and see if there is anything in there that is blocking it. Get this all clear of any debris that was inside (nicely filtered out as it is supposed to do - yes, this gunk was in your fresh tank) and put the screen back into the dome. Take the dome with the screen inside and screw the dome back on the filter base. Just that dome being loose can cause the pump to do this too. The pump is sucking air and that is why it runs and does not shut off unless you shut the pump off with the switch and putting the pump back on will start it doing it all over again. <br /></p><p>We had the problem - and a pipe was kinked. This happened when the Roadtrek was about 6 months old new. How did that happen? We don't know. We took it to the Roadtrek service and they cut the kink our of the PEX pipe and joined a new piece of PEX pipe to rejoin the pipe. </p><p> A kink or blockage or leak could happen anywhere in the pipes going to the fresh tank(s). A hole in a pipe from the fresh tank(s) will also cause the pump to suck air. If the pump sucks air it continues to run and not shut off. The pump will keep running unless you or an RV service technician fix it. AND while the Roadtrek plumbing is fairly basic, if you are not experienced with plumbing or have never worked with PEX pipe before, take the Roadtrek to an RV service shop to deal with this problem. </p><p>The lucky solution is that you find that the filter was clogged or you thought the fresh tank had water in it and it was empty (or your summer/winter valves were turned the wrong way). </p><p>Now, let's look at #2. The water pump runs, shuts off, runs and keeps doing this - always shutting off a little in between. </p><p>What then should you do or look for? <br /></p><p>If the pump was running and stopping repeatedly that is a leak on the output side of the water pump and that can be as simple as a clogged sink faucet end tip screen or a faucet handle that is not closed all the way. Those are the easy to fix things you hope to find. </p><p>SHUT OFF THE WATER PUMP SWITCH - that cuts off the power and stops the pump while you try to diagnose or fix the problem.</p><p>The sink faucet is just like any that you have at home. There usually is a screw off tip at the end of the faucet where the water comes out into the sink. Inside that there is a small round screen - sometimes it is a plastic disk with holes in it. Like the pump filter this also stops gunk from the pipes going into the water coming out of the sink. If this gets clogged. water wants to flow - and doesn't. Unscrew the tip of the faucet and clean the screen. Screw it back on and hope for the best. The water pump when you turn it on now should act normally - run for a few seconds and stop - and not start again until you want it to. </p><p>If the screen was not clogged and you still have the problem, the next thing to do is go to every faucet handle - shower handle (inside shower and outside shower) - check the toilet that there is no water or dripping into the toilet - and close the handle tight. If the handle was open even slightly it will cause the water to drip - you may not even notice the drop - but the water pump does. It senses some handle is open and it wants to make you happy and send water there. of this is the problem, tightening down the handle will stop the water pump from starting,stopping, and keep doing that. </p><p>Worse cases - </p><p>1) There is a leak in a pipe on the output side of the water pump somewhere in the Roadtrek.</p><p>2) There is a loose pipe connection between two pipes or a pipe and a plumbing fixture.</p><p>3) The toilet valve is broken and is leaking. Look around the toilet on the floor. If you see water it is likely coming from the toilet valve what is broken. The toilet valve is located on the back of the outside of toilet under the rim against the bowl on the left side facing the toilet. This happened to us TWICE - once the valve had to be replaced and the second time the valve was able to be repaired - both times by an RV service shop. How did we know? The pump was running, stopping over and over. I went looking and found water collecting in the aisle in front of the toilet. The water was dripping from the valve and coming down from the toilet and found its way to the floor. We shut off the water pump and since we were in the Roadtrek we had no choice but to turn the water pump on when we needed water and shut it off right away to avoid flooding the floor which by then was covered in towels. </p><p>WHAT HAPPENS IF NOTHING WORKS OR CAN BE FOUND TO EXPLAIN #1 or #2?</p><p>The water pump may be broken. Like any other appliance it wears out over time and needs to be replaced. It is also possible that the sensor inside is broken. Some might take the water pump apart and find parts to fix it themselves. Many - who are not so skilled or inclined - will take the RV to an RV shop and let them replace the water pump. I know there are many skilled who own Roadtreks that can do these things for themselves - but like you and me, who do not have those skills and who need articles like this to figure out what might be wrong and they might be able to do - or not do - take it to an RV service shop to fix. The Roadtrek uses PEX pipe for its plumbing. This is pipe that is joined together using crimp connectors - not glued together like PVC pipe or welded together like copper pipe and mostly not screwed together. PEX plumbing work requires special tools to work with the pipe and the crimp connectors. </p><p>Also do not figure that you will just shut off the water pump and connect to city water. If there is a leak, a broken toilet valve, a broken pipe - is is going to leak more connected to city water. </p><p>And speaking of city water - if the city water fill valve is turned to fill - the water pump does not work and even city water will not flow into the plumbing.(But we have <a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2020/07/city-water-connection-and-infamous-city.html" target="_blank">an article</a> all about that!)</p><p>How does the water pump know to run when a water faucet is opened? The water pump senses a drop in pressure and sends water to increase the pressure in the pipe - and it comes out of the faucet. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p>HERE IS TO HOPING THAT IT IS ONE OF THE EASY FIXES THAT YOU CAN DO YOURSELF! </p><p style="text-align: center;">😍<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-34418479979962270852021-05-02T02:03:00.001-04:002021-05-02T02:07:03.503-04:00EASY TO MAKE PROPANE TANK OPENING COVER<p>One day you walk past the back of your Roadtrek and you look down at the center of the bumper and you discover that the cover that goes over the opening to the propane tank fill and off/on knob is GONE! Forget about trying to find a new one. If you could it will cost you more than you should spend. There is an easy way to replace that cover with a simple DIY project that only requires a trip to a home store like Home Depot and a decent pair of scissors. </p><p> This is what you have lost - </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizdHX02Er8uoMMAIs8P6Lo-O9RsZ20zmvEq6xeNjlBeQsxZW6Kj1yQpg2wXbI-5FQloHLWuranpQ7qShj0XAIgaYuw43yE8B0tGa35yo8S90pQBjdpKB7FjWUjTl8VFOMBJQR960PBuMF/s1600/IMG_1127-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizdHX02Er8uoMMAIs8P6Lo-O9RsZ20zmvEq6xeNjlBeQsxZW6Kj1yQpg2wXbI-5FQloHLWuranpQ7qShj0XAIgaYuw43yE8B0tGa35yo8S90pQBjdpKB7FjWUjTl8VFOMBJQR960PBuMF/w400-h300/IMG_1127-web.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p>CLOSE UP - </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPk_iS1u4yBFdkCscoltt9g7mbScxt4ACZahux5IyqOzWKYLM_q41b23YzaCZ201eBUT_3T31lDZB9_p090npTRl2QbneR0jgN9Fffm5jGLnrrH4nxFYo7Nc_X_EAkwDBTiiobffCTpCQo/s1200/IMG_1128-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPk_iS1u4yBFdkCscoltt9g7mbScxt4ACZahux5IyqOzWKYLM_q41b23YzaCZ201eBUT_3T31lDZB9_p090npTRl2QbneR0jgN9Fffm5jGLnrrH4nxFYo7Nc_X_EAkwDBTiiobffCTpCQo/w400-h300/IMG_1128-web.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>A very similar cover to the original can be easily made with some bathroom rubber wall cove base. This is sold on a roll at Home Depot or Lowes. It comes on a roll or you should find it to cut to length by the foot at the store. You don't need a lot - two feet is enough to make two - spares are good to have. Black blends with the bumper but it comes in other colors as well. You don't want it thick so look for one that is thin. <br /></p><p> This is what rubber wall cove base looks like: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4BmY_Otrl-5R1aNj3t6WoL7yoLdN4PUmmV3vpX7ovIDcjJogCoL1t8XBpzYJZ94ONox5PqnKCa6HYmP_5EB7iUS91SlJCleaaXAhk7MBjxaMzg35QPiKyPcDQfAd6619nCmIbL1BtM-vq/s400/black-roppe-wall-base-web.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="400" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4BmY_Otrl-5R1aNj3t6WoL7yoLdN4PUmmV3vpX7ovIDcjJogCoL1t8XBpzYJZ94ONox5PqnKCa6HYmP_5EB7iUS91SlJCleaaXAhk7MBjxaMzg35QPiKyPcDQfAd6619nCmIbL1BtM-vq/w400-h400/black-roppe-wall-base-web.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p>It can be cut with a good pair of scissors. Use the measurements of the opening combined with the turn latches at the center of each side that hold the cover in place. The height of the cove base should be fine as it comes. All you have to measure is the width you need it to be for the cover. Not much has to be done to the cove base other than cut it to size and cut notches for the turn latches to fit into so that they turn to hold the new cover in place. This comes with a lip at the bottom - just like the original cover has. It sits on the bumper the same as the original and is just about the same height as the original. The cove base comes two ways - with adhesive on the back and without - you want it WITHOUT ADHESIVE. Once you make it, it is going to attach exactly the same way the original did. It will fit in the space between the two turn latches. Set it in place with the slots over the open latches on each side. Turn the latch into the cover. If the latch does not fit, trim the slots for the latches so that they turn easily over the rubber. It may be tighter than the original but that is OK as it will be harder to open on its own and get lost. <br /></p><p>For anyone who has not lost their cover - use the original to make a template which will make creating a new one even easier. Don't put it off - as it is even easier if you have the original to use a template - before you lose the original. <br /></p><p>AND when you have the new cover on you should make a leash for it so that it will not get lost again. All you need to do is put a small hole in the corner and take a length of strong nylon fishing line through the hole and tie the ends around one of the brackets along the bumper just inside. Make the fishing line long enough to be able to take the cover off and sit it out of the way on the bumper or hang off the bumper when filling the propane tank. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42z83d9yvn8ZLbz4nK_5sx-0WoR0RMsk56k6hxBkuPmA1eKM98DbiAi2Pk4Ev_HpMFo-82cx7kVOJzaWIqE7_7O-wX5JANi-GLPMtM-Dc9S2xAUh_1JiKrdeCPfbf8l0eL2oKcdG6HiIS/s600/Roadtrek+Propane_00005.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="450" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42z83d9yvn8ZLbz4nK_5sx-0WoR0RMsk56k6hxBkuPmA1eKM98DbiAi2Pk4Ev_HpMFo-82cx7kVOJzaWIqE7_7O-wX5JANi-GLPMtM-Dc9S2xAUh_1JiKrdeCPfbf8l0eL2oKcdG6HiIS/w300-h400/Roadtrek+Propane_00005.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><p></p><p>For a few dollars and very little time you have a new cover!</p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-63616857884208514592021-02-25T01:20:00.000-05:002021-02-25T01:20:05.863-05:00ANDERSEN LEVELERS MODIFICATION<p> I have written two articles about the leveling ramps we use - Andersen Levelers - to get our Roadtrek level when the campsite is not level. <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2014/10/a-better-way-to-level-roadtrek.html" target="_blank"><i><b>LINK 1</b></i></a> and <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2015/07/andersen-levelers-at-campground.html" target="_blank"><i><b>LINK 2</b></i></a> to read these articles to see what I am talking about here. As they come, the surface of the ramp is very smooth. On one hot day the tires slipped slightly on the ramp - the Roadtrek stayed level but it was obvious the next morning when we were taking the Roadtrek out of the campsite for the day that there were black skid marks on the red ramps. Looking around the Internet I found a way to deal with this and enhance the levelers to work even better. I do not take credit for this but I did it with my set of Andersen Levelers and it works great!</p><p>I added strips of anti-slip grip tape that is usually applied to stairs to the top of each one. This is sold in the home stores usually by the roll, but Ace Hardware sells this by the foot and for what is needed, there is no reason to buy a roll of more than you need. This is adhesive and comes in various widths. It is rough on the top and will prevent slipping of the tire - and gives better traction when pulling up on the ramps. </p><p>Here is how I put it on -</p><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrXTYz2_ZZyKNYGqPtXUB2jyVAQ7LFGo2l7WNjPEjg2B3hXZCTinQ1Z0xhjEFoyvJ2SapxU1WsxEeHq5oJRTBNr1A3qYFPsRJZA0VqWsWq2KIpdOIlIVi4seF_Z5agb-C_LIUDjNrXZfY/s907/IMG_20210224_151141073---web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="673" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPrXTYz2_ZZyKNYGqPtXUB2jyVAQ7LFGo2l7WNjPEjg2B3hXZCTinQ1Z0xhjEFoyvJ2SapxU1WsxEeHq5oJRTBNr1A3qYFPsRJZA0VqWsWq2KIpdOIlIVi4seF_Z5agb-C_LIUDjNrXZfY/w321-h434/IMG_20210224_151141073---web.jpg" width="321" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJ9ep9h8XEM4qjS5nMzYT4PgXMmjharfeRw9nVidqKdbRfKob3DM8jkg-RUyjOyIAxmzcXA3kQdyo2p9Ws9mcaiD90h6Bij_G8HVGQMTQMBdLj1n4IjQi_ub4cIJntU2MfWTPqRs8jDkz/s871/IMG_20210224_151207652-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="871" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJ9ep9h8XEM4qjS5nMzYT4PgXMmjharfeRw9nVidqKdbRfKob3DM8jkg-RUyjOyIAxmzcXA3kQdyo2p9Ws9mcaiD90h6Bij_G8HVGQMTQMBdLj1n4IjQi_ub4cIJntU2MfWTPqRs8jDkz/w357-h350/IMG_20210224_151207652-web.jpg" width="357" /></a></div></div><p></p><p>Cut a piece the length of the leveler plus an inch or two for the back. Peel off the backing and apply it carefully to be centered on the face of the ramp. DO NOT PUT ANY OF IT OVER THE THIN EDGE OF THE RAMP (See in Photo 1). The reason for this is this is where the ramp stop block will be inserted and if it cannot be moved out easily it will be a problem getting off the ramps as you will not be able to remove it with the weight of the tire on it and the grip tape keeping it from moving. On the back of the ramp - the tall side that goes to the ground (Photo 2) put an inch or two of tape lapping over from the top. This will hold the tape in place if it should the adhesive pulled by the tire as you roll up onto it. Do the same for both ramps.</p><p></p><p>That is all there is too this. It adds a few dollars to the ramps but it is well worth the difference this small modification makes. </p><p></p><p>These are still the best things I have found to level the Roadtrek when a site is way off level. <br /> <br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-808977702431318352020-10-12T17:42:00.001-04:002022-01-28T17:46:01.780-05:00CHEVY ROADTREK PARTS<p>By now, most Chevy Roadtrek owners should know that a year ago Roadtrek was sold out of bankruptcy to a new owner company that is based in Europe. This company made decisions that have grossly effected every Chevy Roadtrek owner. They decided no longer to build Roadtreks on the Chevy chassis - but even worse, they no longer support the Chevy Roadtrek with parts. There are a number of parts in the Chevy Roadtrek that are specific to the Chevy Roadtrek. The new owners sold off all Chevy Roadtrek parts inventory to two different RV dealerships who have both made the parts available to Chevy Roadtrek owners. One dealership bought the parts inventory. This will last as long as what they have has not sold out. The other dealership bought an even more important set of components - they bought the MOLDS that make the lower body work on the sides of the Chevy Roadtreks. These include the bottom side panels - what Roadtrek called the "ground effects", the outside cabinet doors - storage cabinets drawers (drawers in the 210), battery compartment, and door over where the power cord comes out. Why is this so important - without these if your Chevy Roadtrek is in an accident and these parts get damaged without a supplier that is molding new pieces, your Roadtrek can't be repaired. (Before this company got these molds from the "new" Roadtrek, there were some Cheyy Roadtrek owners who were told by body shops that without the parts there was nothing they could do to make repairs - and at least one was told by their insurance company that without repair the Roadtrek would be considered "totaled". </p><p>SO - thank goodness for these two companies. Their prices are expensive but they are the only game in town.</p><p>MOBILIFE RV CENTER, Kitchener, Ontario</p><p>4166 King St E, Kitchener, ON N2P 2G5</p><p><span class="telephone-number telephone-number-toll-free"><span class="telephone-prefix-code">1</span><span class="separator separator-first"></span>-866<span class="separator separator-second"></span>-653-<span class="separator separator-third"></span>5886</span></p><p><span class="telephone-number telephone-number-toll-free"> </span><a href="mailto:rvsales@mobilife.on.ca" title="Email Us">rvsales@mobilife.on.ca</a><br /><br /><a href="https://www.mobiliferv.ca/rv-parts/roadtrek/?fbclid=IwAR1ukm6d7QCfUxvbeTpudRQ4MfUtRIMYuwhOER4RuCgmMPYJ8JWRi0KImgs">https://www.mobiliferv.ca/rv-parts/roadtrek/?fbclid=IwAR1ukm6d7QCfUxvbeTpudRQ4MfUtRIMYuwhOER4RuCgmMPYJ8JWRi0KImgs<br /></a><br /><br /><br />BODY MOLDED PARTS FOR CHEVY ROADTREKS<br /><br />Easy Life Motors, LLC dba Van.Life, Jackson, MS</p><p></p><h3 class="elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default"><span style="font-weight: normal;">(833) 433-3332</span></h3><h3 class="elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> <a href="https://van.life/contact-us/">https://van.life/contact-us/</a></span></h3><h3 class="elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default"><a href="https://van.life/roatrek-inquiry-form/?fbclid=IwAR1q-cstx1le7ZX9liuDXQ5msYUUyDKwn8m4pGtOw_qRAPIZOjYIXemYzrY" target="_blank"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span></a><a href="https://van.life/roatrek-inquiry-form/?fbclid=IwAR1q-cstx1le7ZX9liuDXQ5msYUUyDKwn8m4pGtOw_qRAPIZOjYIX">https://van.life/roatrek-inquiry-form/?fbclid=IwAR1q-cstx1le7ZX9liuDXQ5msYUUyDKwn8m4pGtOw_qRAPIZOjYIX</a>emYzrY</h3><h3 class="elementor-heading-title elementor-size-default"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span><br /></h3><p><br /><br /></p><p><br /></p>Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-35476192401300366552020-07-23T01:49:00.001-04:002020-07-23T01:49:20.409-04:00CITY WATER CONNECTION AND THE INFAMOUS CITY WATER FILL VALVEOne of the most asked questions that comes up with Roadtreks is, "I have no water running in the sink, showers, or toilet. My fresh tanks are full, and no water is coming out! Why?" Just about 95% of the time the answer is the City Water Valve is set in the wrong direction. After reading this article you will understand all about the city water valve and the city water connection.<br />
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The city water valve and the city water connection is located on the driver's side of the van in the small compartment under the flip up door. Unlock that door and you will find it. In the photo below - here it is open on my 190.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKIO3G3LPH9OQwD4UBQZ-Hyjbenb3hCqzSrbCtfmw0LWsO4IuVxQAfy4fIhY8UR_h569gF7H8o1mC3nrlrVI1EoBUkWzaMVhBLlWPOWm7NDjhuhNuhm9BYMILxhnhON-j5PvNjOSL6V_N/s1600/location.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="388" data-original-width="678" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivKIO3G3LPH9OQwD4UBQZ-Hyjbenb3hCqzSrbCtfmw0LWsO4IuVxQAfy4fIhY8UR_h569gF7H8o1mC3nrlrVI1EoBUkWzaMVhBLlWPOWm7NDjhuhNuhm9BYMILxhnhON-j5PvNjOSL6V_N/s400/location.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is what you will see when you look in -<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASh3Uz59cZZQOEM6ObySX5U08EpfyKRIB12YcCst-wk-deXE3wijBjeDySP5L06WZlCLrmEJIi2avOMNT90EGu0gEU_qnMJpGsfHHucSLrFTJCxZJka8rOnKbpBAsAffcLLWhAnGx0tGA/s1600/City-water-connection-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1058" data-original-width="1411" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASh3Uz59cZZQOEM6ObySX5U08EpfyKRIB12YcCst-wk-deXE3wijBjeDySP5L06WZlCLrmEJIi2avOMNT90EGu0gEU_qnMJpGsfHHucSLrFTJCxZJka8rOnKbpBAsAffcLLWhAnGx0tGA/s640/City-water-connection-web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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BUT WHAT IS CITY WATER? - City water is water connected by a hose to a water spigot that is attached to a city water system's water (or a country well). It is fresh drinking water that you will use in your Roadtrek to drink, wash your hands, shower with, or wash dishes. It is just one of those terms in "RV Speak". <br />
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On the left is the CITY WATER CONNECTION. This is where you connect a fresh water hose (white hose rated for drinking or "potable"water) with the other end of the hose connected to a fresh water spigot - either at a campground or at home. We will talk about the city water connection first.<br />
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Before connecting a hose to the city water connection you MUST put a WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR on the hose. A water pressure regulator limits the pressure of the water that will flow into the pipes in the Roadtrek (or any RV). There are different types of water pressure regulators and some have a pressure gauge on them, some have a valve to change the water pressure flowing through it, some have both a valve and a gauge, and some are preset at the factory and cannot be changed. Below is one made by Camco and is easily found - many Walmart stores sell this in their RV section in the auto parts aisles. This one is preset to 40 pounds which is a safe pressure for water in the Roadtrek and it sells for about only $10. Camco makes another version of this same one that is all plastic - blue plastic. I do not recommend the plastic one. Get the brass one if you are getting the Camco.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmfzrf87D30nnQNbo3INjyqQE-fMZd743fULuicKmpBgFfv6_c6fZVwLtBQc_n7grVatxqy-uNqhrEQe4Ka_yj0bXDXr9Oj7xXMYHGGGpgBgxJgi2nbzpY22VuDVk-BWezKWNMs3sEkHc/s1600/water-pressure-regulator-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="678" data-original-width="862" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmfzrf87D30nnQNbo3INjyqQE-fMZd743fULuicKmpBgFfv6_c6fZVwLtBQc_n7grVatxqy-uNqhrEQe4Ka_yj0bXDXr9Oj7xXMYHGGGpgBgxJgi2nbzpY22VuDVk-BWezKWNMs3sEkHc/s400/water-pressure-regulator-web.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Because of the low clearance to the ground in the Roadtrek I find that this cannot be attached right on the hose connection on the Roadtrek. I attach it to the other end of the hose at the spigot. If I am using more than one hose I put it between the two hoses.<br />
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Let's look closer at the water connection on the Roadtrek.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzI5-phgsOLoNUwEVsLGos12pNpGIA0C2-XFqus47lIqk_sG6MsGSQif2SxvBBnIZae_jZplUxnuNkMvN9l8sN54ONMkqtnAanP4fsXDEe6SX77Z39xma6kZ6-72s7WmHowlh9r6rL2t41/s1600/City-water-connector-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="692" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzI5-phgsOLoNUwEVsLGos12pNpGIA0C2-XFqus47lIqk_sG6MsGSQif2SxvBBnIZae_jZplUxnuNkMvN9l8sN54ONMkqtnAanP4fsXDEe6SX77Z39xma6kZ6-72s7WmHowlh9r6rL2t41/s640/City-water-connector-web.jpg" width="427" /></a></div>
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There it is circled in red above. My city water connection came from Roadtrek with a quick hose connector. Both sides are seen in this photo - top and bottom. If you do not have one, Camco also sells these made for fresh water connections for RVs. To attach a hose with one of these you move the middle black ring and the bottom section will pull out. You screw that piece to the end of the hose. Then you push the connector and the end of the hose up into the bottom of the top half of the connector and the middle ring should pop into place and lock the two together with a <i>"watertight"</i> connection. (I put watertight in italics because this is not always water tight and can leak slightly. ) This makes it easier than getting down on the ground and screwing the end of the hose straight up into the base of the connector without the quick connect. You do not have to use a quick connect. At the bottom of the connector in my photo you see a white ring. That ring is the side of a cap what we bought in Home Depot that fits the hose end of the connector and we keep that on when we do not have a hose attached to the Roadtrek. This keeps bugs from crawling into the connector and up into the pipe.<br />
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Once you have your hose connected, turn on the spigot outside at the other end of your hose to start water running to your Roadtrek.<br />
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NEXT - the more important part of this whole thing-<br />
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THE CITY WATER VALVE<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_PWG8xUe2hAMMd-4lU7j_HpJ_W0ewIFc4r7QZbXz-wlxIuPbgIg4S4vf5Ghg6NJKPWyemnZ3Ic_XhFIHDtTGiqJLj4VYzImH94uDSSINlB2Ak_ziivrWwF-85yiq7F5x-YRHTbPjFhn38/s1600/City-Water-Fill.web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="723" height="564" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_PWG8xUe2hAMMd-4lU7j_HpJ_W0ewIFc4r7QZbXz-wlxIuPbgIg4S4vf5Ghg6NJKPWyemnZ3Ic_XhFIHDtTGiqJLj4VYzImH94uDSSINlB2Ak_ziivrWwF-85yiq7F5x-YRHTbPjFhn38/s640/City-Water-Fill.web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the photo above, circled in red is the CITY WATER FILL VALVE. Over the years Roadtrek has played with this valve for some reason from years to years - I have seen this valve handle in red color. I have seen this valve handle in yellow color. You can see in my 2011 Roadtrek the valve handle is black. What is worse is that Roadtrek has changed the direction this valve must be turned in to select one of its TWO functions.<br />
<br /><b>FUNCTION ONE - </b><br />
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TO FILL THE FRESH TANK(S) WITH WATER FROM THE CITY WATER HOSE CONNECTED TO THE CITY WATER CONNECTION. This is a second way to fill your fresh tanks. The other way is to use the city water fill holes in the driver's door frame and for the rear interior tank - if you have a 190 or 210 - the fill hole in the passenger side cargo door in the back's door frame. I will share that I have found that using the door fill holes is much better than using the city water connection. If you are in Summer Mode with a 190 or 210 - which generally is the best way to set your two fresh tanks (<a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/02/summer-modewinter-mode-two-water-tanks.html" target="_blank">SUMMER MODE/WINTER MODE</a>) - when filling the two fresh tanks with the city water connection the back tank will be filled first - and then once full it will start sending water to the front tank through the small pipes inside the Roadtrek (much smaller than a fresh hose) and this can take forever - if the front tank fills at all. If the water from the hose is running faster than the interior tank can move water out the interior tank will start to push water out of its water overflow valve which will pour water outside the van (thank goodness!) onto the ground just behind the passenger side rear tire. It is so much easier to fill each tank using the door water fill openings. <b>IN</b> <b>MY ROADTREK - AND MAYBE OR MAYBE NOT YOURS - as Roadtrek has played with the direction this must be turned - THE VALVE HANDLE IS TURNED TO THE RIGHT TO BE IN RIGHT WITH THE PIPE THAT GOES TO THE WATER TANKS.</b> <b><i>MORE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THIS IS TO COME! </i></b><br />
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<b><i> </i>FUNCTION 2 -</b><br />
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TO RUN WATER FROM THE CITY WATER HOSE <b>AND FROM THE WATER PUMP </b>INTO THE PLUMBING OF THE ROADTREK TO GO INTO THE SINK, SHOWERS, TOILET, AND HOT WATER HEATER TANK! Yes the city water system through this valve is connected in a way to allow <i>WATER IN THE TANKS</i> to run into the water pump! <b>THE SETTING OF THE VALVE HANDLE FOR THIS FUNCTION IS (IN MY ROADTREK - AND MAYBE OR MAYBE NOT YOURS - IS STRAIGHT UP. In this close up photo below you see the CITY WATER VALVE SET TO RUN WATER FROM THE HOSE AND YOUR TANK WATER INTO THE WATER PUMP!</b> In the photo above you will see my city water valve is set to RUNNING WATER IN THE PIPES. <br />
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So why is the city water valve infamous? Well if you put the city water valve into the fill position and you try to use water from the city water hose OR the water pump to get water from your fresh tank(s) - <b>NO WATER COMES OUT</b> of your plumbing into the sink or showers or toilet or hot water heater. And you will - like many, including me, go into a panic that there is something terribly wrong - and you might (I didn't (and this happened to us the first night ever that we were in the Roadtrek), but I know some who have) go to an RV service center and pay them to fix the problem and they will charge you for walking over to the city water valve and turning it the other way and say - see it is fixed! This valve is too easy to leave in the wrong position! Between this and that it is just easier to use the door fills for the fresh tanks, I never touch this valve.<br />
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Now - as I have said here - the way to turn this valve to get each of the functions can be different between year Roadtreks - and you may have a red handle or a yellow handle or like mine a black handle. <b>BUT IF YOU HAVE NOT WATER RUNNING INSIDE THE ROADTREK THE FIRST THING YOU DO IS GO TO THE OUTSIDE TO THE CITY WATER VALVE AND TURN IT THE OTHER WAY. SINCE THE OUTSIDE SHOWER IS RIGHT BELOW IT - TURN ON THE COLD HANDLE AND YOU SHOULD GET WATER POURING DOWN ON YOUR FEET. AND IN THIS CASE THAT IS A GOOD THING BECAUSE YOU NOW HAVE WATER RUNNING IN YOUR ROADTREK. AND THIS IS WORTH REPEATING AGAIN - EVEN IF THERE IS NO WATER COMING AND YOU HAVE NO HOSE CONNECTED AND ARE USING WATER FROM YOUR TANKS - THIS VALVE HAS TO BE SET THE SAME WAY FOR RUNNING WATER - SO DO THE SAME AND GO TO CHANGE THE VALVE TO THE OTHER POSITION! </b><br />
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You know it is just another one of those Roadtrek things that does not make sense. But now you know about it! <b> </b><br />
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<b><i> </i></b><br />
<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-12962188196812634962020-06-26T14:00:00.000-04:002020-06-26T14:00:00.394-04:00ALL ABOUT THE HOT WATER HEATER AND HOT WATER TANKThis is an article that is a collection of links of all of our articles to date about the hot water tank. There are always a lot of questions about how the hot water tank works and what needs to be done involving the hot water tank during a year of using the Roadtrek. The hot water heater is a Suburban 6 gallon propane heated hot water
heater and tank. Some early Roadtreks had electric and propane heating elements. It is installed from the inside and it is accessed
outside and inside the van - outside is access to the hot water heater
mechanism and tank drain. Inside in a cabinet at the floor is the tank
and bypass valves. The tank is covered in foam insulation. The inside
of the tank is glass lined. The battery switch must be turned on when you want hot water as the propane is self-ignited by a 12 volt igniter. <br />
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<br />
<br />
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<b><a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/search?q=The+Hot+water+heater" target="_blank">THE ROADTREK HOT WATER HEATER AND THE WATER SYSTEM - HOW IT WORKS</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/10/propane-part-2.html" target="_blank">THE HOT WATER HEATER AND PROPANE</a></b><br />
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<a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2017/10/putting-hot-water-heater-into-bypass.html" target="_blank"><b>HOW TO PUT THE HOT WATER HEATER TANK INTO BYPASS</b></a><br />
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<b><a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2012/07/flushing-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank">FLUSHING THE HOT WATER TANK</a> </b><br />
<br />
<a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2015/08/dont-lose-your-water-heater-door.html" target="_blank"><b>DON'T LOSE YOUR WATER HEATER DOOR</b></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2016/06/a-new-step-in-sanitizing-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank"><b>SANITIZING THE HOT WATER TANK</b></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2020/06/draining-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank"><b>DRAINING THE HOT WATER TANK </b></a><br />
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<i><b>THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES ARE HOT WATER HEATER/TANK RELATED:</b></i><br />
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<br />
<a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/11/winterizing-your-roadtrek-step-by-step.html" target="_blank"><b>WINTERIZING - THE DEFINITIVE STEP BY STEP GUIDE</b></a><i><b><a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/11/winterizing-your-roadtrek-step-by-step.html" target="_blank"> </a></b></i><br />
<i><b></b></i><br />
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
<a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2020/06/the-definiative-dewinterizing-and.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: small;">THE DEFINITIVE STEP BY STEP DEWINTERIZING AND SANITIZING</span></a></h3>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2013/10/propane-part-1.html" target="_blank">PROPANE </a></span></h3>
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>
</h3>
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<br />
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This is all fairly complete in what you need to know about the hot water heater and tank in your Roadtrek. Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-43362274087208036422020-06-20T01:08:00.001-04:002020-06-20T01:08:55.781-04:00DRAINING THE HOT WATER TANKRoadtreks have a Suburban 6 gallon hot water tank and water heater. At one time the hot water heater that Roadtrek used propane or electricity to heat the water. The more recent Roadtreks use only propane to heat the water. There is an automatic igniter to ignite the propane to heat the water and this requires that the battery switch be turned on to provide 12 volts DC. There is a switch on the wall of the Roadtrek - usually near the monitor panel - that when turned on starts the ignition of the propane at the hot water heater and the propane flame heats the water. The hot water tank is glass lined inside for insulation and the hot water tank is covered in Styrofoam to insulate it to keep the water hot to warm inside. With 6 gallons of water to heat, it can take a number of minutes (longer on cold day) to heat the water in the tank from cold to hot.<br />
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An important thing to understand is that once filled, the hot water tank will remain full. The tank is filled by cold water coming from the water pump or a city water connection through a hose from the Roadtrek to an outside spigot that flows into the bottom of the hot water tank. The water then fills the tank to the top. When a not water handle is turned on at the sink or shower, cold water will go through the water pump or hose and go into the hot water tank and PUSH the hot water at the top of the tank out of the tank and into a hot water pipe that will take the hot water to the sink faucet or shower head. Water cannot come out of the hot water tank unless there is water to push it out - from a fresh tank or an outside hose connection. As water in the tank comes out, more water goes into the tank to refill it. It is NOT POSSIBLE to empty the hot water tank by running hot water through the sink or the inside or outside shower.<br />
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The hot water tank must be drained. This is done outside the Roadtrek on the driver's side toward the rear of the van. There is a vented metal panel that must be opened and removed to drain the hot water tank.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgva0eegoiwJmp4C6PrMKV-Q7MM6Xp0tZ-VYKocJ-qtxtPBT_slpaxl0IM9xiDrBNMKwo9I9jhQQ7z7weh7uRIHDX0z4jwaKoYBNN63kJ1IaZwA6CtuGD8Qll0pjSMZwyWFm7-OZx3h72Dz/s1600/Water+Heater_00001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="790" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgva0eegoiwJmp4C6PrMKV-Q7MM6Xp0tZ-VYKocJ-qtxtPBT_slpaxl0IM9xiDrBNMKwo9I9jhQQ7z7weh7uRIHDX0z4jwaKoYBNN63kJ1IaZwA6CtuGD8Qll0pjSMZwyWFm7-OZx3h72Dz/s400/Water+Heater_00001.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div>
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To open this metal panel you must turn the ring catch at the top middle. The white ring you see there in this photo is on an elastic cord. To open, turn the ring so that it is straight with the up/down slot that is under it. Pull the panel from the top edge toward you and once the top is clear pull it up. There are two small "pins" at the bottom that you will lift this off panel off of - and then out. Take the panel and put it someplace safe while you drain the hot water tank.<br />
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<i><b>THE OPEN HOT WATER HEATER/TANK</b></i></div>
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You will need a few things to drain the hot water tank:<br />
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1) A RATCHET SOCKET WRENCH<br />
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2) A 1 and 1/16" SOCKET - DEEP WELL OR REGULAR WITH EXTENDER<br />
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3) PLUMBERS TEFLON THREAD TAPE<br />
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4) A SCISSOR TO CUT THE PLUMBERS TAPE <br />
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Take a look at the photo just above. This is the workings of the hot water heater. The rest is just the tank that holds the hot water and that is directly behind what you see here and inside the Roadtrek. There are two things in this photo that are of interest to you right now in draining the hot water tank.<br />
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<i><b>PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE</b></i></div>
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<i><b>ANODE ROD/DRAIN</b></i></div>
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<b> </b>The Pressure RELEASE VALVE or PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE shown in the first photo releases any pressure built up in the hot water tank. This is a safety valve that will automatically open should pressure build too high in the hot water tank. This valve can be opened MANUALLY. </div>
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The ANODE ROD/DRAIN is the head of the ANODE ROD screwed into a threaded hole into the hot water tank. This is, when removed will open a hole into the hot water heater and the water will drain out. The valve is located in the top middle of the hot water heater as shown in photo of the open hot water heater/tank above.</div>
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<i><b>ANODE ROD</b></i></div>
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The Anode Rod is a long rod of magnesium or aluminum that is used inside the hot water heater tank to prevent the inside of the metal tank from breaking down. This rod breaks down instead of the metal of the tank. It will become pitted and then start to disintegrate - and it will also attach to mineral deposits that form in the water. The rod over time will become whitish grey and the surface full of these mineral deposits will become sharp - sharp enough to cut yourself if you grab hold of the rod tightly. The head of the rod is a hex head that you will use to unscrew the rod. Inside the rod is a thin metal rod that the magnesium or aluminum are molded around. That inner rod will become partly visible over time. When the all of the rod or a good portion of the rod is no thicker than a pencil it is time to replace the anode rod with a new one. How long they last can range from a year to a few years. New ones can be purchased in either magnesium or aluminum - each have advantages and disadvantages which are personal preference. You can Google the differences. Suburban sends the hot water heater out from the factory with a magnesium rod. (For this reason I have always replaced the rod with a magnesium one.) The anode rod is located in the bottom middle of the hot water heater as shown in the photo of the open hot water heater/tank above.</div>
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<b>TO DRAIN THE HOT WATER TANK:</b></div>
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<b>1. <span style="color: red;">FIRST TURN OFF THE PROPANE. NEVER DO THIS WITH THE PROPANE ON!</span> </b></div>
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<b>2. NEVER START THIS PROCESS WHILE THE WATER IS STILL HOT INSIDE THE HOT WATER TANK. To test the water go inside - leave the hot water switch OFF. Turn on the hot water handle on the faucet on the sink and feel the water temperature. IF IT IS HOT WAIT UNTIL IT FEELS COOL!</b></div>
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<b>3. YOU ARE GOING TO MANUALLY OPEN THE PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE. TO DO THIS GENTLY TAKE HOLD OF THE HANDLE THAT YOU SEE IN THE PHOTO THAT IS DIAGONALLY SLANTED TO THE LEFT. PULL THAT HANDLE TOWARD YOU AND WHILE DOING THIS STAND AWAY TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE HOT WATER HEATER. Water will shoot out from the opening that you see to the bottom right of the pressure release valve. It is going to get very wet all over the inside of this area - that is normal and it is OK for the hot water heater. WAIT UNTIL NOTHING MORE IS COMING OUT.</b></div>
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<b>4. WITH THE SOCKET ON THE SOCKET WRENCH YOU ARE NOW GOING TO REMOVE THE ANODE ROD AND OPEN THE DRAIN HOLE. A DEEP WELL SOCKET WILL ALLOW CLEARANCE AWAY FROM THE GAS IGNITION TUBE You can see the brass ignition tube in the photos as it crosses on top of the end of the anode rod. YOU CAN ALSO USE A REGULAR SOCKET WITH AN EXTENDER WHICH WILL ALSO BRING THE SOCKET WRENCH OUT OF THIS TIGHT AREA AND CLEAR THE IGNITION TUBE. (My preference is is the regular socket with the extender as it seats more securely on the hex head of the anode rod.)</b></div>
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<b>5. <span style="color: red;">AS YOU DO THIS NEVER STAND DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE ANODE ROD AND CLEAR ANYONE AWAY FROM THE FRONT OF THE PATH OF THE ANODE ROD - PLUS ANYTHING BREAKABLE.</span> PUT THE SOCKET ON THE HEX HEAD OF THE ANODE ROD AND TURN THE WRENCH TO THE LEFT (COUNTERCLOCKWISE). IT MAY BE TIGHT - USE LEVERAGE TO LOOSEN IT AND UNSCREW THE ANODE ROD FROM THE THREADED HOLE. ONCE IT IS VERY LOOSE YOU CAN FINISH UNSCREWING IT BY HAND. </b></div>
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<b>********<span style="color: red;">WARNING<span style="color: black;">********</span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">THE REASON WHY YOU MUST NEVER STAND OR BE IN FRONT OF THE ANODE ROD WHEN REMOVING IT IS IF BY CHANCE YOU DID NOT GET ALL OF THE PRESSURE OUT OF THE HOT WATER TANK THE ANODE ROD ONCE RELEASED WILL SHOOT LIKE A TORPEDO WITH GREAT FORCE FROM THE HOLE STRAIGHT OUT AHEAD OF IT. THE FORCE IS ENOUGH TO DO SERIOUS INJURY IF IT HIT YOU OR SOMEONE STANDING BY. </span></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">ALSO - IF THE WATER WAS STILL HOT, YOU WOULD BE SCALDED AS IT CAME OUT - OF BOTH THE PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE AND THE ANODE ROD OPENING. </span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">6. WITH THE ANODE ROD UNSCREWED PULL IT STRAIGHT OUT OF THE HOLE. THE WATER IN THE HOT WATER TANK WILL COME OUT WITH THE ROD AND KEEP COMING OUT UNTIL THE TANK IS <i>ALMOST</i> EMPTY. WITH THE WATER COMING OUT YOU MAY SEE MINERAL DEPOSITS ALSO COMING OUT WITH THE WATER. THESE LOOK LIKE WHITE, GREY, AND BLACK ROCKS. YOU WILL SEE THEM COLLECT ON THE GROUND WHERE THE WATER IS POURING OUT. SOME OF THESE CAN BE SHARP. THESE MINERALS FORM FROM HARD WATER SITTING IN THE HOT WATER TANK. </span></span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">7. AT THIS POINT YOU MAY WANT TO FLUSH THE HOT WATER TANK TO REMOVE ANY MORE MINERALS THAT MIGHT BE SITTING AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. TO DO THIS FOLLOW THIS ARTICLE ON <a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2012/07/flushing-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank">FLUSHING THE HOT WATER TANK.</a></span></span></b><br />
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<b>8. BECAUSE THE ANODE ROD DRAIN HOLE SITS ABOUT ONE QUARTER OF AN INCH FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK, NOT ALL OF THE WATER COMES OUT WHEN THE DRAIN IS OPEN. FOR MOST PURPOSES YOU CAN LEAVE THIS LITTLE AMOUNT OF WATER STILL IN THE TANK. IN THE WINTER THIS IS NOT ENOUGH TO CAUSE ANY DAMAGE TO THE TANK IF IT FREEZES. THERE ARE WAYS TO GET OUT THE REMAINDER OF THE WATER IF YOU WISH TO. YOU COULD USE A HAND PUMP OR AN ELECTRIC PUMP WITH A SMALL TUBE ON THE SUCTION END THAT YOU WOULD PUT INTO THE HOLE TO THE FLOOR OF THE TANK TO SUCK OUT THE REMAINING WATER. EVEN THEN NOT ALL OF THE WATER WILL COME OUT. LEAVING THE DRAIN HOLE IN THE HOT WATER TANK OPEN FOR A FEW DAYS WILL LET SOME OF THAT WATER EVAPORATE OUT. WHATEVER YOU DO - DO NOT - LET ANYTHING GO INTO THE DRAIN HOLE INTO THE TANK THAT CANNOT BE REACHED TO PULL OUT! </b><br />
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<b>9. NOW EXAMINE THE ANODE ROD TO SEE IF IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. IF A LARGE PORTION OF THE ANODE ROD HAS CORRODED AWAY - WHICH IS WHAT IT DOES WHEN IT IS DOING ITS JOB - OR THE ROD HAS BECOME AS THIN AS A PENCIL - IT IS TIME TO REPLACE THE ANODE ROD. IT IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE ONE OR MORE SPARE RODS ON HAND - AND CARRIED IN THE ROADTREK - IN THE EVENT THAT IT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. IF YOU ARE REPLACING THE ROD, DISCARD THE OLD ROD AND FOR THE NEXT STEPS USE THE NEW ROD.</b><br />
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<b>10. LOOK AT THE THREADS THAT ARE AROUND THE HOLE OF THE DRAIN HOLE. THERE MAY BE PLUMBERS TAPE THAT WAS LEFT IN THE HOLE WHEN YOU TOOK THE ANODE ROD OUT. USING A FINGER GENTLY SCRAPE THE PLUMBERS TAPE OUT AND AWAY FROM THE HOLE. IF YOUR FINGER CAN'T GET IT ALL USE A TOOTHBRUSH TO REMOVE THE TAPE FROM THE HOLE. DO NOT LET THE TAPE FALL INTO THE HOT WATER TANK. </b><br />
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<b>11. WITH THE TANK DRAINED, YOU ARE READY TO PUT THE ANODE ROD BACK IN. IF YOU ARE PUTTING THE ROD THAT CAME OUT BACK IN, REMOVE ANY OLD PLUMBING TAPE THAT IS AROUND THE THREADS OF THE ROD. TO MAKE THE ROD EASIER TO COME OUT THE NEXT TIME, TAKE THE ROLL OF TEFLON PLUMBING THREAD TAPE AND WRAP ENOUGH AROUND THE ALL OF THREADS ON THE SCREW SECTION OF THE TOP OF THE ROD. WRAP THE TAPE IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION WITH THE TOP SCREW END OF THE ROD FACING YOU. COVER THE THREADS BUT DO NOT PUT SO MUCH ON THAT IT MAKES IT HARD TO GET THE THREADS TO FIT INTO THE DRAIN HOLE. CUT THE TAPE FROM THE SPOOL OF TAPE WITH THE SCISSOR. </b><br />
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<b>12. INSERTING THE ROD BACK INTO THE HOLE IS TRICKY. BECAUSE THE ROD IS HEAVIEST AWAY FROM THE END YOU WILL BE SCREWING IT DIPS DOWN INSIDE THE TANK. IT WILL NOT SCREW ON PROPERLY THIS WAY. I FIND IT EASIEST TO HOLD THE ROD WITH TWO HANDS WHEN PUTTING IT INTO THE DRAIN HOLE AND SUPPORTING IT OUTSIDE THE HOLE FOR THE ROD INSIDE THE TANK TO REMAIN LEVEL WITH THE OUTSIDE PUSH THE ROD INTO THE THREADS OF THE HOLE AND START TURNING THE END OF THE ROD CLOCKWISE WITH YOUR HAND. TURN IT SEVERAL TURNS - LET GO - IF IT HAS NOT GRABBED THE THREADS CAREFULLY TAKE IT OUT AND TRY IT AGAIN. IT WILL GRAB THE THREADS IF IT IS NOT TIPPING DOWN INSIDE THE TANK. HOLD IT STEADY WHILE YOU DO THIS - KEEPING ONE HAND TO KEEP THE ROD FROM DIPPING DOWN INSIDE THE TANK AND SCREW IT IN WITH THE OTHER HAND. </b><br />
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<b>13. ONCE THE ROD IS IN BY HAND GET YOUR RATCHET WRENCH AND MAKE SURE THE SWITCH ON IT IS SET TO TURN CLOCKWISE. PUT THE SOCKET ONTO THE END OF THE ANODE ROD (THAT YOU JUST TIGHTENED BY HAND) AND START TIGHTENING THE ROD WITH THE SOCKET WRENCH. THE ROD <i>DOES NOT </i>SCREW IN ALL THE WAY TO THE END. IT WILL GET VERY TIGHT ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN. ONCE IT IS GIVING A LOT OF RESISTANCE TO TURN STOP. IT IS IN AND IT WILL NOT LEAK. IF YOU FORCE IT ANY FURTHER YOU WILL HAVE A LOT OF TROUBLE TAKING IT OUT NEXT TIME. </b><br />
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<b>14. GET THE METAL DOOR PANEL YOU TOOK OFF AT THE START. PUT THE BOTTOM OF THE PANEL IN FIRST AND GET THE TWO HOLES ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR TO GO INTO THE TWO SMALL METAL PINS THAT ARE STICKING UP FROM THE BOTTOM. PUSH THE TOP OF THE DOOR INTO THE OPENING AND IT SHOULD LINE UP WITH THE SLOT OF THE PLASTIC RING LATCH. ONCE THE RING LATCH IS THROUGH THE SLOT, TURN IT TO LOCK THE DOOR IN PLACE. </b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>YOU HAVE DRAINED YOUR HOT WATER TANK!</b></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="color: black;">YOU CAN NOW FILL THE TANK AGAIN - OR IF IT IS THE WINTER - LEAVE IT EMPTY. NEVER TURN ON THE HOT WATER HEATER SWITCH ON THE WALL INSIDE THE ROADTREK WITH AN EMPTY HOT WATER TANK. YOU WILL BURN OUT THE HOT WATER HEATER. </span> </b></span><br />
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<b> WHAT PROBLEMS MIGHT YOU ENCOUNTER? </b><br />
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<b>IF THE ROD WAS PUT IN TOO TIGHT AND YOUR SOCKET WRENCH WILL NOT LOOSEN IT, ONE WAY - THAT ONE MUST USE A LOT OF CAUTION WITH - IS TO USE A SOCKET BREAKER BAR. THIS IS A LONG METAL BAR WITH A SOCKET CONNECTION ON THE END. THIS LONG HANDLE WILL PROVIDE A LOT OF LEVERAGE TO MOVE THE SOCKET TO LOOSEN IT. ONCE IT STARTS TURNING, STOP. TAKE THE SOCKET AND PUT IT BACK ON YOUR REGULAR SOCKET WRENCH AND CONTINUE WITH THE REGULAR SOCKET WRENCH. A LARGE ENOUGH SOCKET WRENCH WITH A LONGER HANDLE IS BETTER TO USE TO START WITH THAN A SHORT OR STUBBY SOCKET WRENCH AS YOU GET BETTER LEVERAGE WITH A LONGER HANDLED WRENCH. THAT COULD AVOID THIS PROBLEM ALL TOGETHER. i HAVE ONLY HAD THE ROD NOT LOOSEN ONCE AND I WENT OUT TO BUY THE BREAKER BAR (HARBOR FREIGHT IS THE MOST ECONOMICAL PLACE TO DO THIS). I HAVE NEVER HAD TO USE IT SINCE THEN. I MAKE SURE THAT I DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE ANODE ROD.</b><br />
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<b>WHAT YOU MOST NEED TO BE CAREFUL OF IS TO NOT STRIP THE THREADS ON THE DRAIN HOLE IN THE HOT WATER TANK. YOU WILL SEE THAT THIS HOLE RUSTS - NOT BADLY BUT MORE THAN ONE MIGHT EXPECT SOMETHING THAT INVOLVES WATER. IT IS NORMAL FOR IT TO RUST. WITH THE TYPE OF HOT WATER TANK THAT THE ROADTREK USES, THERE IS NO WAY TO REPLACE THAT HOLE SECTION. IF THE THREADS STRIP OUT OR THE HOLE IS DAMAGED THE ENTIRE HOT WATER HEATER/TANK MUST BE REPLACED. THAT IS SOMETHING YOU WANT TO AVOID! THE ANODE ROD IS EASILY REPLACED - AND YOU WILL DO THAT MANY TIMES OVER YOUR YEARS WITH THE ROADTREK BUT THE DRAIN HOLE IS PART OF THE TANK. </b><br />
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<b>THE ONE AND ONE/SIXTEENTH SOCKET IS NOT COMMON. IT IS RARELY PART OF A SOCKET SET. IT CAN BE FOUND IN HOME DEPOT OR LOWES WHERE THE INDIVIDUAL SOCKETS ARE. I BOUGHT MINE IN LOWES - AND AT THE TIME I BOUGHT THE DEEP WELL AS THAT WAS ALL THAT THEY HAD IN THIS SIZE. AN EXTENDER WILL ALLOW YOU TO GET A REGULAR SOCKET IN AND NOT INTERFERE WITH THE WORKINGS OF THE HOT WATER HEATER RIGHT ABOVE THE ANODE ROD. I FOUND A REGULAR SOCKET IN THIS SIZE AT A HARDWARE/TOOL VENDOR AT A FARMER'S MARKET. </b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>SO - </b>the process reads long - but does not take long to do. It is important to make sure you drain the hot water tank when you are winterizing the Roadtrek and when you are de-winterizing and sanitizing the fresh water and hot water tank. You want to make sure you get your sanitizing bleach and water mixture out of the tank before you put it into use for the season. If you are not going to use the Roadtrek for a period of time you also would want to get the water out of the hot water tank. Keep in mind the a glass enclosed tank that holds hot water than becomes warm is an excellent environment to grow bacteria.<br />
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<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-4590402180039492612020-06-11T00:52:00.003-04:002023-04-15T15:35:05.549-04:00THE DEFINITIVE DEWINTERIZING AND SANITIZING - STEP BY STEP<p>I have written several articles over the years about how to dewinterize your Roadtrek and sanitize its fresh water tanks, including the hot water tank. I am writing this article to put all of it together. I have combined all of the steps and these include changes I have made over the years. As it would be a huge article if I included some of the articles that relate, I will use links to those articles that will offer more explanation for processes that are done not just for dewinterizing and sanitizing fresh tanks. I will also indicate where you should copy the text of this article so that you can paste it into an easy to take to your Roadtrek document to be able to have all the steps in front of you as your dewinterize and sanitize your Roadtrek. Please note that this article has the steps in the order I am using now to dewinterize and sanitize my Roadtrek - with the most recent change in 2019.<br />
<br />
Here is what you will need:<br />
<br />
Fresh Water Hose<br />
Water Pressure Regulator<br />
Liquid Chlorine Bleach (Clorox or off brand is fine) <b><i>PLEASE NOTE: There is something called "Splash-Less" Bleach. DO NOT BUY THIS FOR SANITIZING YOUR TANKS. It does not have disinfectant properties and will not disinfect surfaces." BUY REGULAR BLEACH. (Thanks to one of our readers, "Tom" for bringing this to our attention!)</i></b><br />
Funnel with hose on the end<br />
Measuring Cup (for Bleach)<br />
Small paper cups <br />
Hot Water Tank FLUSH Wand<br />
Ratchet wrench handle<br />
1-1/16" Socket<br />
Plumbers silicone pipe tape to put on threads of the anode rod when putting it back in. <br />
<br />
The process - though there are a lot of steps is easy - and can go quickly. There is a lot of waiting in the process - waiting for tanks to drain, standing and filling the tanks through the door fill holes, and waiting for the bleach to work.<br />
<br />
Here we go!<br />
<br />
<i>START COPYING HERE ON -</i><br />
<br />
<br />
</p><div class="MsoNormal">
<b>DEWINTERIZING STEP BY STEP</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">KEEP
THE HOT WATER TANK IN BYPASS WHEN STARTING.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"> SET
TANK VALVES TO SUMMER MODE.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">IF YOU PUT RV ANTIFREEZE INTO YOUR FRESH TANK(S) WHENWINTRIZING DRAIN THE A/F OUT OF THE TANKS NOW USING THE LOW POINT DRAIN ON THE FRONT EXTERIOR FRESH TANK </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">FILL
THE TWO FRESH WATER TANKS.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">AGAIN IF YOU PUT RV ANTIFREEZE INTO YOUR FRESH TANKS - DRAIN THE WATER YOU PUT IN STEP 4 AND FILL AGAIN TO FLUSH THE A/F OUT . </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON THE BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON THE WATER PUMP.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON COLD SIDE OF SINK – RUN UNTIL ALL PINK (RV ANTIFREEZE) COMES OUT AND CLEAR WATER RUNS.
TURN ON HOT SIDE OF SINK AND DO THE SAME.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">OPEN
SHOWER DRAIN IN FLOOR OR POINT THE SHOWER HOSE INTO THE SINK. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON COLD ON SHOWER UNTIL CLEAR, REPEAT FOR HOT.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">FLUSH
TOILET. LET WATER RUN IN TOILET UNTIL YOU DO NOT SEE PINK WATER.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON COLD OUTSIDE SHOWER UNTIL CLEAR, REPEAT FOR HOT.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
OFF WATER PUMP AND BATTERY SWITCH.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">OPEN
HOT WATER TANK AND FLUSH WITH FLUSH STICK*. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">REPLACE
ANODE ROD. CLOSE HOT WATER HEATER DOOR.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">LEAVE
WATER PUMP OFF.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">CONNECT
HOSE TO CITY WATER LINE WITH PRESSURE REGULATOR.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON HOSE AND REPEAT STEPS 6 TO 10.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">NEXT
SANITIZE ALL FRESH TANKS.</li>
</ol>
<i>STOP COPYING - PASTE TO A DOCUMENT AND SAVE - YOU WILL BE PASTING MORE.</i><br />
<br />
<a href="http://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2012/07/flushing-hot-water-tank.html" target="_blank">* GO TO THIS ARTICLE TO FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH FLUSHING THE HOT WATER HEATER TANK USING A FLUSH WAND. </a><br />
<br />
<br />
<i>START COPYING AGAIN FROM HERE</i><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>SANITIZING THE FRESH WATER TANKS</b></div>
<br />
<ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
HOT WATER BYPASS VALVES TO HOT WATER FLOW. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">CONNECT A FRESH WATER HOSE <b>WITH A WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR</b> ONTO THE CITY WATER FILL CONNECTION. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;"> USE CITY WATER LINE TO FILL HOT WATER TANK BY RUNNING CITY WATER INTO THAT TANK. (<b>NOT</b> CITY WATER FILL - REGULAR USE OF CITY WATER) GO TO THE SINK, TURN ON HOT WATER AT SINK. AIR WILL COME OUT - AND THE TANK WILL FILL. WHEN IT IS FULL THE WATER WILL RUN STEADILY FROM THE FAUCET. DO NOT TURN ON HOT WATER SWITCH. THIS WILL BE COLD WATER AND THAT IS WHAT NEEDS TO BE.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in;">DISCONNECT CITY WATER CONNECT FROM HOSE. </li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">PUT
ONE HALF CUP BLEACH INTO THE <b>FRONT EXTERIOR</b> FRESH TANK. <span style="color: red;"><b>(PRE-MIX THE BLEACH IN A GALLON JUG OF WATER BEFORE PUTTING IT INTO THE FRESH TANK - DO NOT PUT PURE BLEACH INTO THE TANK.) </b><span style="color: black;">A FUNNEL WITH A HOSE ON THE END IS EASIEST TO GET THE BLEACH/WATER MIX INTO THE FRESH TANK THROUGH THE DOOR FILL HOLE. </span><br /><b></b></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">PUT
ONE QUARTER CUP BLEACH INTO THE <b>REAR INTERIOR</b> FRESH TANK. <span style="color: red;"><b>(PRE-MIX THE BLEACH IN A GALLON JUG OF WATER BEFORE PUTTING IT INTO THE FRESH TANK - DO NOT PUT PURE BLEACH INTO THE TANK.) </b><span style="color: black;">IF YOUR ROADTREK HAS ONLY ONE FRESH TANK - SKIP THIS STEP.</span><br /><b></b></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">TOP
OFF WATER IN TANKS WITH HOSE.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">DRIVE
BACK AND FORTH TO MIX THE BLEACH INTO THE WATER.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON BATTERY SWITCH AND WATER PUMP.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">TURN
ON EACH FAUCET HANDLE PLUS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE SHOWER ONE HANDLE AT A TIME
SMELLING FOR BLEACH TO COME THROUGH WITH EACH. <b><i><u>NOT THE TOILET</u>.</i></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b>NOW YOU WAIT. <i> </i></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">LET
BLEACH SIT IN TANKS FOR AT LEAST FOUR HOURS. LONGER IS OK!</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">DRAIN
WATER TANKS.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"> <b>NOW WE REMOVE THE BLEACH FROM THE HOT WATER TANK FIRST.</b><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> </span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> 1) The hot water tank should NOT be in bypass while sanitizing and it should remain NOT bypassed for this process. DO NOT HAVE ANY SINK FAUCET OR SHOWER FAUCET ON DURING THIS PROCESS EXCEPT WHERE AND WHEN NOTED FOR THE OUTSIDE SHOWER HOT WATER HANDLE. DO NOT TURN ON THE HOT WATER HEATER!<br /><br />2) Water pump OFF. <br /><br />3) Attach a fresh hose WITH A WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR to the city water inlet and a spigot outside. Turn on the water.<br /><br />4) Turn on the outside shower hot water handle and open fully - step back! Only the hot water handle on the outside shower should be open. No other faucet or shower handle should be on. As the water comes rushing out of the shower (hose optional) you should smell bleach in the water.<br /><br />5) Allow to run for at least 15 minutes. THIS WILL FILL AND EMPTY THE TANK AT THE SAME TIME - ABOUT THREE TO FIVE TIMES. YES THE WATER IS FLOWING DOWN THE DRIVEWAY FLUSHING THE HOT WATER TANK. <br /><br />6) After a steady flow of water for 15 minutes you should no longer smell bleach in the water coming out. (To test, take a small paper cup , slow the flow of water by turning back the handle and put the cup under the streaming water coming out. Step away from where the water has been flowing and smell the water in the paper cup. You should not smell bleach.)<br /><br />7) If you still smell bleach allow the water to continue to flow longer until there is no longer any smell of bleach in the water. (Use a new paper cup if you test again.)<br /><br />8) Shut off the hot water outside shower handle.<br /><br />9) You have now exchanged all of the water inside the 6 gallon hot water tank several times with fresh water, flushing that tank as many times.<br /><br />10) Remove the hose from the city water connection. <br /><br />11) PUT THE HOT WATER HEATER INTO BYPASS! You do not want to </span></span><br /><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">put bleach back into the hot water tank.</span></span> </span></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"> </span></span>FILL FRESH
WATER TANKS AGAIN.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"> GO INSIDE THE ROADTREK.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"> TURN
ON BATTERY SWITCH AND WATER PUMP.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"> <b>**</b>TURN
ON EACH FAUCET HANDLE PLUS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE SHOWER ONE HANDLE AT A TIME
SMELLING FOR BLEACH TO COME THROUGH WITH EACH. <b><i><u>NOT THE TOILET</u> - YOU NEVER WANT ANY BLEACH TO GO INTO THE TOILET.</i></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><i><b><i>IF YOU DO NOT SMELL BLEACH (GOOD!) SKIP TO #23</i></b></i></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><i><b><i> </i></b></i></b><b><i><b><i>DRAIN
TANKS THROUGH THE LOW POINT DRAIN.</i></b></i></b></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><i><b><i> </i></b></i></b>FILL FRESH TANKS AGAIN.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"><b><i><b><i> </i></b></i></b>IF BLEACH SMELL REPEAT FROM STEP #16 AFTER DRAINING FRESH TANKS.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;"> DRAIN
TANKS OR LEAVE FULL FOR TRIP. </li><li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; tab-stops: list .5in;">PUT YOUR HOT WATER TANK OUT OF BYPASS NOW SO THAT THE TANK WILL FILL AND YOU WILL HAVE HOT WATER WHEN YOUR TANKS ARE FULL OR ARE USING CITY WATER. <br /></li>
</ol>
<br />
<b>DONE</b><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>** When you smell for bleach, run the water into a paper cup and
smell the water in the cup. If you run it into the sink the bleach odor
will be in the sink and you will smell bleach in the water when you go
on to Step 19 after flushing with fresh water. </b><br />
<br />
<b> </b><i>STOP COPYING AND PASTE WHERE YOU LEFT OFF IN YOUR CARRY OUT DOCUMENT</i><br />
<br />
<a href="https://roadtrek190popular.blogspot.com/2017/10/putting-hot-water-heater-into-bypass.html" target="_blank">IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO PUT YOUR HOT WATER HEATER INTO BYPASS LOOK HERE!</a><br />
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It seems like a lot but it is not. It is more waiting for the tanks to drain and the bleach to sit in the tanks than doing. The socket wrench and socket are needed to remove the anode rod from the hot water tank to flush it. If the anode rod looks as thin as a pencil REPLACE IT. If you have never flushed the hot water tank before - copy out the article linked about flushing the hot water tank. The flush wand is an important tool to have and worth the little it costs.<br />
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You can leave your grey and black tanks with the antifreeze and water that went into it in this process until you dump on your next trip. <br />
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<b>IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT US TO ASK A QUESTION ABOUT ANYTHING YOU
READ IN THIS ARTICLE PLEASE EMAIL US USING THE LINK IN THE RIGHT COLUMN
OF THIS PAGE.</b><br />
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<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-7663295870460285032020-02-29T02:20:00.000-05:002020-02-29T02:20:37.408-05:00JUST WHEN YOU THINK EVERYTHING IS GREAT- IT'S NOT!I have been holding off writing this article since the end of October 2019. My last post of August 2019 - ended on a happy note. My new batteries were in, The battery separator was replaced and when driving the batteries were charging. It seemed like all was great. Well... no it was not.<br />
<br />
Why have I waited to write this? I wanted to make sure that now things really were OK. And I just wanted to not tempt fate - once again. At this point as you read this, hopefully, all is well, but for a long time it was not. Now I have pages of documentation and voltage checks that I made shortly after the last article was published, but I, promise, I will not include all of that in this article. I don't even want to look at all of that again. I will give you some details to explain what took place.<br />
<br />
The last article came out on this site on August 30, 2019. On September 6th, I went out to check the voltage of the batteries and they read 12.56 volts. That is a lot for brand new batteries to drop. Three days later - September 9th - I went to the Roadtrek again and checked the voltage of the batteries and the battery voltage was ----- 10.1 volts! Essentially the new batteries drained to dead. This part is important to understand - there was NOTHING ON INSIDE THE ROADTREK TO DRAIN THE BATTERIES LIKE THIS. <br />
<br />
I downloaded the technical manual for LifeLine AGM batteries to find out what to do? The manual is 40 pages long! In the manual there is a section called "Deep Discharge Recovery". What I had was a "deep discharge"! The second paragraph in this section says, "WARNING: This procedure should only be done by a trained technician." That warning was followed by another "WARNING" and also a "CAUTION". All of which I was in no position qualified or capable of doing." What I did instead was plug the Roadtrek in for 72 hours plus to try to bring the batteries back to charge. After it charged - and the batteries did charge - I turned off the TrippLite 750 inverter/converter/charger on the unit slide switch on the front right of the TrippLite. To do this you slide it to the middle position DC OFF. This cuts its connection with the batteries - whether the battery switch is on or off. In this position the TrippLite has ZERO drain on the batteries. It is the same as if you disconnected the battery cable from the TrippLite.<br />
<br />
Hoping that all now was OK - we decided to take a trip and we drove on a one day and back trip 400 miles. - Another point of interest - when you drive the Roadtrek the batteries charge when the engine is running. The battery switch can be ON or OFF. AND MORE IMPORTANT TO KNOW - the TrippLite has NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS PROCESS OF CHARGING. It is strictly the connection between the battery separator (or in older RTs the battery isolator) and the Roadtrek batteries with the Engine battery - and the engine alternator which is doing the charging. - So, we drove 400 miles after charging the batteries at home plugged in using the TrippLite set to "Charge Only" and that battery voltage went to 12.8 which is very good. 12.8 v DC is a fully charged battery or battery bank. Sounds good, right? Wishful thinking. In four days (which included two hours of exercising the generator under half load - which also charges the batteries through the TrippLite set to "Charge Only" - the batteries dropped - with the TrippLite set to "DC OFF" to 12.1 volts. Again, I plugged in to charge.<br />
<br />
During all of this I went out and bought a fairly good - recommended - multi-meter so that I would be sure I was getting accurate readings. I was - as I checked this to my 12 volt plug in digital meter. I stopped in at the mechanic who works on our car and the Roadtrek and asked him if he would test the Roadtrek to determine if there was any drain on the batteries. He took the RT into his shop and the results - there was ZERO drain on the batteries from the Roadtrek or the van. Something was very wrong.<br />
<br />
I contacted the shop in New Jersey that I bought the batteries from and that installed the new AGM batteries. What I got in response was that I could bring the RT back to them and that they would need it "for awhile" and they had to determine what was wrong with the Roadtrek before they would test the batteries and put in a claim for replacement under the batteries one year full replacement warranty. What troubled me by what they said was the "for awhile" part. They charge by the hour - a lot by the hour - and I could see this becoming even more expensive than dumping these batteries and starting all over again taking the loss of the money. They would not give me a clear answer about when and how long they would be charging for labor. I made an appointment to bring it in to them - in New Jersey and leave the Roadtrek. But in the meantime until the appointment I started doing what I should have done before I even bought the batteries from them. I looked up customer complaints and reviews about this shop. What I found was greatly disturbing. Not one but the same comments over and over - they take an RV in for service - keep it an extended period of time - little is done - nothing really is resolved - and they charge for all of that - and more. Oh boy! I try not to stress over the Roadtrek but this was really getting me down. I was not sure what to do. I did not trust this shop at all any longer. <br />
<br />
As always, Meryl had the solution. She said - call the Roadtrek dealer/service - which I did. I both called and emailed all of the details - all of the documentation about what was happening and all of the voltage readings - and what we knew - which basically was that zero drain was found on the batteries from the Roadtrek. Initially they were going to take it in for one day. Even I felt that it really needed to be there for more than a day - just to monitor what was happening with the batteries and to really go fully over the electrical system in the Roadtrek and make sure that there was nothing not functioning as it should that was causing the batteries to drop. I spoke with the customer service rep that we have been working with since we got the Roadtrek in 2011 from this dealer new - and spent a lot of time with getting things put in correct order after it came out of the factory with a lot of problems. We are on a first name basis - and have had many pleasant conversations with over the years. She told me that they thought I was in a hurry and it would be better if they kept it. We set a day to bring the Roadtrek and leave it with them. At the same time we learned that they have moved their service facility off the property where the sales room is and they were now down the road some. We got detailed directions. To bring the Roadtrek there to leave it we had to also bring our car to get home. That meant one follows the other. The next day I cancelled the appointment at the shop we bought the batteries at.<br />
<br />
I put together a very extensive package of materials about the batteries and my log of what was going on since we got the new batteries. At this point I was not sure if the Roadtrek shop - from which I did not buy the batteries from - would be able to get replacements under the batteries' warranty. I just wanted things fixed - and for me to tell any shop what I told the Roadtrek shop under any other circumstances would be just craze - but I wanted this fixed and done with - I said, "if the batteries are bad and you can't get them replaced under warranty I will take the loss - take them out, throw them away - and get me two good AGMs that you would use to replace the Roadtrek originals". Yep, I was pretty much at the end of my tolerance in dealing with getting working batteries in the Roadtrek. As it was the entire summer when we should have been traveling in the Roadtrek we were getting the batteries replaced -and then dealing with bad batteries. The only trip we took the entire summer in the Roadtrek was four days the week of July Fourth - plus the one day and back the same day trip of 400 miles (which was rather pleasant). We usually go away for a few days at the end of October and I was planning on that trip as the last trip of 2019.<br />
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The trip down to Pennsylvania to drop off the Roadtrek we set off with Meryl driving the Roadtrek and me driving our passenger van. (Ah yes! With all the excitement going on with the Roadtrek just before this trip down, our car started making noises when shifting down. I asked our mechanic if I could drive it to PA and he said - "I wouldn't" - so I didn't. My passenger van is a 1996 and I have only driven it locally for a long number of years. So I asked the same mechanic - who knows it well - if it would make ti to PA and back and he said sure. Just in case I took it out on a highway at night for an hour to make sure it would. It did that fine - and that is what I was going to drive to PA - a trip this van has not taken in maybe over 10 years or longer.) SO - We have Midland Walkie Talkies with a 28 mile range (clear open field outside) and we each took one - and they kept us in contact the entire trip. The only time we lost contact was when the Roadtrek got ahead of me and went around a long curve- but as soon as we both were on straight highway again the radios connected. Meryl rarely gets to drive the Roadtrek and had not driven it that far since she drove it home from Pennsylvania with me following. We got to the service center in its new location. Had a nice chat with our friend - talked about Roadtrek and the new owners - and we left it in good hands. They were planning on our having it back in about 12 days. And they were not charging me for labor unless they were actually working on it. They have been very good with us since we first met this dealer in 2009 when we started looking at Roadtreks - and met them at an RV show in New York.<br />
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Getting home was a lot more exciting. We stuck around the area for a couple of hours - had lunch and stopped at a store that was not far for a couple of pies - not just any pies - and not chocolate shoofly but a cake in a pie called Funny Cake which is mostly only found in this area of Pennsylvania. We were this close - we had to go and pick up a couple. Well. We finally almost got to the PA Turnpike - coming from a direction we have not come from before and had to head east from and we made a wrong turn that took almost a half hour to correct - and we got back to the PA Turnpike rush hour had started. Six hours later - we got home. Thank goodness we were together in the van because had this happened on the way down in two vehicles it would have been even more of a mess. We made a mental note - when coming back to pick up the Roadtrek - get there early and come straight back home!<br />
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Back home and life goes on. I was getting email updates from Roadtrek dealer/service. During this time Meryl's 90 year old mom needed some help getting to routine medical appointments and we were taking her. We got a call from Roadtrek and they said it would be ready in two days.<br />
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Findings from Roadtrek dealer service - Roadtrek electrical systems and charging - ALL GOOD! New batteries - one bad, one good. The bad one was bringing the whole thing down. A new replacement added to the good battery would make all GOOD. AND THEY HAD A DISTRIBUTOR WHO WOULD TAKE THE BAD BATTERY AND REPLACE IT WITH THE SAME UNDER WARRANTY.<br />
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SO as far as the Roadtrek was concerned all was going to be good. The minor problem at home was we were scheduled to take Meryl's mom to the doctor when we should have gone back for the Roadtrek. I let the shop know this and they said no problem - call us next week and we will set a day to expect you. That would have been good if the weather had not changed - and it got suddenly very cold and a bit snowy - not at home but in PA. Just before I was going to call the next week, I got a call that morning from the Roadtrek shop - the weather forecast is predicting well below 28 degrees in the next few nights and your Roadtrek is not winterized. May we winterize it if you can't come right now to get it? Well, I had heard this same thing about the weather and it was there and here - and even if I could have gone right then to get it - I would have it home in the same cold. I told them absolutely yes - as I had thought to ask them to do this anyway when I called later that day. So they would winterize the Roadtrek. Of course, those who have read my articles on winterizing the Roadtrek I have little things that I do that the shops often don't do - and I had to make sure they knew not to use compressed air in the lines - as this is a never do according to Roadtrek (at least the "old Roadtrek"). I went through my please don't and please make sure to do this and that - which I would have done if I was doing it myself. She said, of course. And for the first time since they did the winterizing that first year we owned the Roadtrek - and took their one to one winterizing class - which is the basis for my steps on winterizing - plus my additions - I was not winterizing the Roadtrek. And like a parent with his child away for the first time when something they do together is not done - I worried if they were really going to do it all the way I do. (And they did!)<br />
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We finally got to get to PA and pick up the Roadtrek - and as we were sure to do after our first experience getting home in rush hour PA, NJ, and NY style - we picked it up around 11 am. Stopped for twenty minutes to have lunch. Got on the southbound road to the PA Turnpike - did not make the same mistaken turn as we did the last time - now following each other - and got home in the expected three hours - and only got into traffic in New York - Walkie Talkies with voice activated transmission making sure that each was finding the correct turns.<br />
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I will not say what I was charged except that everything to do with the batteries and checking out the Roadtrek's systems to make sure they were good was reasonable. The winterizing surprised me as to what it now costs which is a lot more than it was 8 years before - but checking around I was charged ballpark for what winterizing costs to do today. It is a good thing to do it yourself- as you save a LOT!<br />
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I learned a very important lesson in all of this. The lesson is don't try to go cheap! I got a quote from the Roadtrek dealer/service on the batteries and installation before I decided to go to the place in New Jersey to buy the batteries. The quote was higher on the batteries but lower on the installation (and I was charged in addition by the shop in NJ for shipping the batteries from LifeLine to them - and they were supposed to be a LifeLine distributor. plus parts that were not needed.to do the install). Had I gone to the Roadtrek dealer/service from the start the total price - as there was no shipping involved - they were going to the same distributor that did the warranty exchange a few miles away from them - and there were no added, unnecessary parts - would have been less than what it cost me in New Jersey plus they would have fully checked out the batteries at the time of install - and I would have had the Roadtrek for travel - no need to make two trips down and back with multiple vehicles which involved tolls and gas - and not had to pay for getting everything checked out. All in all - I should have listened to Meryl when she told me to go to the Roadtrek dealer/service from the start - why? Because Meryl is always right. I don't say that mockingly. She will tell you, herself, that she is always right - and you know - honestly - she is.<br />
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We never did get to take that trip at the end of October. The weather was bad. Things were going on at home that could not be put aside. But the Roadtrek was fixed and fixed right.<br />
<br />Our Roadtrek dealer/service is Fretz RV in Souderton, PA. As I have said they have always been good to us! <br />
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I have been checking voltage regularly ever since I got the Roadtrek back. It has gone on a day trip since then. The generator gets its monthly exercise. And until today - because I don't want o get into the habit of not plugging it in - even though it really does not need to be charged - I had only plugged it in once. As I write it is outside plugged in and charging. Other than when plugged in or running the generator when I put the TrippLite into Charge Only setting, I keep the TrippLite on the DC OFF setting - and there is still zero drain on the batteries. The batteries stay at 12.9 volts - may go to 12.8X volts with x being a 100th of a volt . The lowest I have seen is 12.82 volts - all indicating that they are fully charged and holding that charge. It has been four months now. The green light on the battery monitor inside the Roadtrek on the wall always shows C - top LED - for the momentary check of the batteries inside with the plug in 12 volt meter - and then the battery switch goes right off.<br />
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Would I still recommend LifeLine AGM batteries to replace your Roadtrek AGMs? I am not sure if I would. Maybe it is not unusual for one to get a bad battery. I don't know. I have never gotten a bad vehicle battery. These batteries are supposed to be hand assembled at the factory in California. They are supposed to be the best - and at a price for the best. When I read though the LifeLine technical manual they talk about all the things one is supposed to do annually to maintain these batteries. Well, the AGMs Roadtrek put in when they built my Roadtrek in 2011 lasted until - and maybe even would have lasted longer past - 2019. I decided to replace them because they were not charging when driving - and we found out after buying the new batteries that the problem with that was not the batteries at all but the battery separator going bad. So I might still have had the OEM batteries now if that had not happened. And all I ever did to maintain those batteries was to plug in every month and charge them - once a month up to when they were four years old and then I started plugging in twice a month - to keep them charged. And with these new batteries- well that is my plan also -they will get plugged in once a month - which is also good for keeping the engine battery charged (depending on the year of your Roadtrek). I can't be doing what they say to do and I have no idea how to do what they say to check and record, discharge, and ,,. Well. they will get plugged in. You can download the manual on the LifeLine website and decide for yourself.<br />
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I will be writing some articles about what I have learned about the Roadtrek electrical system which goes beyond the basics I have written about in the past. There are things that work a lot differently than I had thought they did. i have mentioned some of them so far. But that is for another article.<br />
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Once again, thanks for coming along on this journey - one I rather I would have not had to take. Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-60530519563052381742019-08-30T18:43:00.000-04:002019-08-30T18:43:01.284-04:00Sometimes one writes TOO SOON - An Unanticipated PART 2When I finished the last article, all was happy and hopeful. Had I only waited to write that article, as a few days later I went out to turn on the batteries, start the engine, and watch the voltage on my plug in voltage meter rise up to charging voltage (around 13.8 to 14.5 volt) showing that the new batteries charging. This, after all, was what pushed me to buy the new batteries - as the old batteries were not doing this. Well... The voltage meter stayed at 12.6 volts - a decent charge on the new batteries but not right when the engine is running. We took it for a ride. We are getting too used to late night drives in the Roadtrek toward the end of Long Island. Long Island is 100 miles long and the only roads there that the Roadtrek is allowed to drive on due to its height. So we get on the Long Island Expressway (495) and to get to that we used the Seaford Oyster Bay Expressway - yes, it is referred to as the S.O.B. or more kindly the 135. Long Island is shaped like a fish and we drive out when we do this drive we head east and turn around in the town of Riverhead which is located where the fish's tail starts - this is an hour's drive (when there is no traffic) and about a 65 mile drive for us. The best way to charge the batteries in the Roadtrek while driving is two drive for two hours at highway speeds without stops. And that is what we did. When we got to the hour point I pulled over into a parking lot with the engine running and plugged in and looked at the voltage meter for the Roadtrek batteries and it read 12.6 volts - no charging took place. We turned around and headed home - and back at home - the same 12.6 volts and no indicator to show it was charging. Oh BOY!<br />
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As it happened the day before I decided to purchase a spare Sure Power bidirectional battery separator - the same model that I had in the Roadtrek - just in case I should ever need it. This is not an easy part to find and has to be ordered - I ordered it from a battery supply house in Washington State. It would take three business days for it to arrive. <br />
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I stopped at the mechanic the next day and told him that I needed him to check out the engine battery, the alternator and to please test the battery separator which is not something he would usually do but he could do it. He could take it the Tuesday of the next week. That weekend I printed out everything I have about the battery separator - and I also contacted an email Roadtrek friend who I met as a reader of this site. His name is Bruce. The details about how the battery separator works is rather confusing as the wording seems to contradict how we know it works by experience. In fact, it turns out I was not the only one confused by this. <br />
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Did you ever have what seems to be an unsolvable puzzle and become obsessed with solving it? Well that was me! I went back and forth with Bruce about how we each were interpreting Sure Power's description of how the separator worked. He had some good ideas about this but suggested I contact someone he has contacted before about his Roadtrek - Norm - who writes a blog site similar to ours but with its focus on the Roadtrek 210, which is a bigger version of our 190. Bruce also sent a link to an article that Norm wrote on his site about the Sure Power Battery Separator. I read his article and he also seemed to find contradiction on how we know it works and how it is described as working. I emailed Norm the details of what was going on and if he has any insights beyond his article. (Norm's site is linked to our LINKS section on the right column of the page - and has been for sometime - <a href="http://roadtrek210.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Roadtrek 210</a>.) While waiting for Norm's response I sat down with Meryl who often looks at things purely logical - much more so than I do, explained the battery separator and gave her all of the documents I have about to read and come to her own opinion on how it works - and that did seem the most likely and logical. (This was no surprise to me - I knew she would see it differently than I was seeing it.) Norm did respond and we went back and forth with a few emails discussing what it might be - what it should be - etc. We knew how it should work from shared experience in how it works - and that is what I needed to go by - despite the paperwork.<br />
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The new battery separator was delivered to the post office on Saturday and I had it in my hands on Monday. If it was needed, I had it ready. <br />
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We got the Roadtrek to the mechanic the night before. And the next morning I eagerly awaited a phone call which by after 1:00 pm had not come. We were heading out of the house and I said to Meryl that we would stop there on the way. She suggested that I bring the new battery separator and I put it in the car. When we got there, it seemed to be ready. The engine battery was bad - and not holding a charge. (I had thought that might be the problem.) He had tested the battery separator and it was connecting. He talked about the other things he did and handed me the keys. I asked him if the RV batteries were charging when the engine was running. He said he was not sure how to turn on the battery switch inside and did not want not to push any buttons he was uncertain of. Understandable - he is not an RV mechanic. We started the engine first, turned on the battery switch for the Roadtrek batteries, I put the meter in the socket and the batteries were not charging. He then decided that perhaps the alternator was not putting out enough current and went back into the shop to check on alternators. He said we did not want a cheap import alternator and he only wants to put a good one in. He was finding the alternator he wanted to use but they were not available. We talked about the alternator some and then ... I just had a feeling that I needed to ask him if he did one more thing -
when the engine was running - and the alternator showed 14 volts on the
dash - did the Roadtrek side of the battery separator also show 14
volts. He told me he had not checked that and we all went back outside to the
Roadtrek. He brought his meter - and he tested this. There was no current coming into the Roadtrek battery side of the separator. He said we don't need an alternator. I told him that I had a new battery separator in the car and he might want to check that out. He installed the new one in a few minutes - it is just three connections - a cable from each battery system - engine and Roadtrek - and a common ground - all there on the old separator. As soon as he had the new one in, the Roadtrek battery started to charge with the engine running, While the separator was connecting before the voltage was not going through it. The new battery separator is what was needed all along. We were going to need the new batteries in the Roadtrek - both RV and engine anyway - so while that might have been put off for a time - I was still playing Russian Roulette with RV batteries that were past due. <br />
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As we were leaving he told me to drive the Roadtrek to charge both sets of batteries- the new engine battery and the Roadtrek batteries - or I could plug in the Roadtrek to charge both. Since there were "strong storms" predicted that afternoon we decided not to plug in at the house and wait until that night for one of our late night Roadtrek excursions. We did that and all was well. And since I have been checking and double checking and it is working.<br />
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My special thanks to Bruce and Norman! You both helped a great deal!!!<br />
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<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-84305110103564153712019-07-30T02:21:00.001-04:002020-02-29T18:44:16.215-05:00New Batteries for the Roadtrek - A Three Year Long Epic Adventure <span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">THIS ARTICLE HAS BEEN EDITED SINCE IT WAS FIRST PUBLISHED. THE BATTERIES INSTALLED IN THIS ARTICLE HAD MAJOR PROBLEMS AND IN DEALING WITH THAT I COULD NOT TRUST THE SHOP THEY WERE PURCHASED AND INSTALLED AT AGAIN. THE NAME OF THAT SHOP HAS BEEN REMOVED. </span></b></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">I WILL NOT REVEAL THE NAME - PLEASE DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK.</span></span></b></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;">THE NEXT TWO ARTICLES WILL TALK ABOUT WHAT TOOK PLACE FOLLOWING THIS ARTICLE. </span> </span></b></span><br />
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Batteries do not last forever. The batteries that are the heart of the electrical system in my 2011 Roadtrek 190 Popular are two 6 volt AGM deep cycle batteries. And until now have been the original batteries installed by Roadtrek at the factory. I have been told that these batteries last about 7 years - and the first time I started to question that the batteries were still good was three years ago.<br />
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At the time electrical things that should happen a certain way just were not happening. When the batteries should have been charging when driving - something that Roadtreks after around 2006 should do - was not always happening. It might take an hour or more of driving before the charging light was showing lit on the battery monitor panel in the Roadtrek. There are a few reasons why this might happen - the RV batteries (often referred to as "coach batteries") are going bad, the engine battery is going bad, the vehicle alternating is going bad, OR a device put into the Chevy engine compartment by Roadtrek - called a Battery Separator - is going or has gone bad. The problem was not every time but often enough for concern. Let me explain the battery separator. This is a device that has the engine battery connected to one side of it and the RV batteries connected to the other side of it. It is a "smart" switch - when the engine is running and the RV batteries need to be charged it connects the engine battery to the RV batteries and charges them through the van's alternator. It also will charge the engine battery when the RV is plugged into shore power - an outlet connected to the outside world of 110/120 volts of electricity or when the Roadtrek's electrical generator is being run which also provides 110/120 volts of AC electrical current. It is a nice little system - as long as it is working. So - one of these things would have been the problem three years ago.<br />
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SO - I started checking things out as best that I could on my own. There are ways to test the Battery Separator - that I am not equipped to do but we go to a very friendly mechanic and for many, many years he has worked on our car so I spoke with him and if it came down to it he could test the separator for us. When the separator is working and connects or disconnects there is an audible click. And I was hearing that click when plugging into shore power and I was pretty sure it was, therefore, working. But I was not fully convinced. So at the time I started researching buying a new battery separator of the same make and model that is there. This proved to not be quite so easy. I called two RV dealerships with repair shops on Long Island. Long Island is a wasteland for RVs - finding them here or service for them here is like - well, let's say not worth the effort. Basically they had not worked with RVs that had separators - they did know about battery isolators which are similar but work differently - but they could not get the one I had and were not really interested in working on my Class B RV - which they don't usually work on. I started searching the internet for the part - as it is not hard to install - and my friendly mechanic could do that for me - and found that only a handful of retail websites around the US - none anywhere near here - sell this make and model. That was going to be what I would have to do if it came down to that. I also started asking on a group I was on what was the best - absolutely THE BEST - coach battery for my Roadtrek and without question from several more experienced than I when it comes to RV batteries the same answer came back - Lifeline batteries. One even said to me that they were "overkill" but they were the best - and they are expensive. And I need TWO.<br />
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The first thing I had the mechanic do is check the engine battery - the easiest of the things that needed to be tested and - hooray! He found that the engine battery - even though it started the van easily when started - had a bad cell and was only putting out less than ten volts - and he replaced it. After that things started working - and with all of this in the back of my mind we continued to hear out int the great well known and kept traveling in the Roadtrek - for three more years.<br />
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Every so often things would hiccup but came back to working as it should be working - but the coach batteries were getting older - and this year at 8 years old I kept feeling that I was playing Russian Roulette with the batteries. I had figured that going into 2019 we would need to buy new batteries. And then the macerator problem happened - as I wrote about two articles back - and that took the money that we would have used for the batteries. Before we left the dealer service when we bought and had installed the new macerator and macerator hose, I asked if they could get Lifeline batteries - and they said yes but they could not tell me a price - and would check. A week or so later they told me - $550 EACH battery plus labor to install! Oh BOY! It was back to Battery Russian Roulette.<br />
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It seemed like maybe things would go the right way and with short day trips things were working as they should. Then we set out on a trip during Fourth of July week. Our procedure when we travel is just before pulling down the driveway and off, we start the engine of the van, turn on the battery switch - to turn on the coach batteries - and also turn on the RV refrigerator. I get the van running and Meryl does the rest. And I asked her to turn on the test button that shows battery level - which as the van is running should show the coach batteries charging - and that LED was NOT lit! OK - this has happened before and we drive a little and the light comes on, it is charging and all is well. That did not happen. And after a short time we pulled over to check again and it was still out and I could only figure that we either turn around and go home or we turn off the fridge - no meds in it this trip - as the main med for the fridge once started does not need to be refrigerated - and I sat there on the side of the road contemplating what to do - turn back or go on. Meryl made the decision. We had paid in advance for one night of the three nights in the campground and we should go on and IF there were problems resulting for this all we could stay the night, the next day go to the Festival in PA that we go to every year that runs during Fourth of July week and just come home tomorrow night. Fine. And - have I mentioned this before - Meryl is ALWAYS RIGHT - truly!<br />
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We headed off. We stopped at a rest area on the New Jersey Turnpike and I put the battery switch back on and with the engine running - after about two and a half hours of driving - there was a lot of traffic getting there - the charging LED lit. Wonderful! We left the fridge off to not push our luck and continued on the trip and stayed the three nights and four days - with the last two days with the fridge on to bring home some treats - but not too many because the week before our fridge at home died and we had to buy a new fridge which when delivered did not work correctly and a new, new fridge would not be delivered until we got home - unknowing if that one would work any better than the first. (Another unexpected, not affordable expense.)<br />
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We had reasons to start the Roadtrek when we got back from this trip - and the batteries did and then didn't show they were charging when the engine was running and it was three years back all over again. Only this time the research had been saved from three years past. While we were on the trip to PA I said to Meryl that we can't play Russian Roulette with the coach batteries any longer. That one day we are going to find ourselves off somewhere and these batteries - the ones I wanted - were not going to be found where ever we were stuck. She agreed. And the decision was made that we needed to find and buy and have installed the new Lifeline batteries.<br />
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I thought that this might be easy. Yes they were on a few websites. There are even dealers for these batteries on Long Island - all marinas. Long Island is "Boat Happy - RV Deprived". I started calling and emailing these marine shops. Yes they could get the batteries - each over $500 - no they could not install them. I went to the websites that sold these batteries and the price from at least two - across the country - was $329 each with free shipping. I had thought that our friendly mechanic could install them - which he said he could - but he had been and was very busy at his shop with his usual business - including work on our small passenger van - and I felt that I should not impose on him - especially if I wanted the job done right away. I also found on the battery manufacturer's website two dealers of the batteries in New Jersey. I contacted one - a dealer who is also a Roadtrek dealer who could get the batteries at just a little more than the $329 and he could install them - AS LONG AS I waited for his next available service appointment at the end of September. I thanked him and said that was not going to work out for us.<br />
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The second shop in New Jersey was a little closer but not an RV dealership but rather an RV repaid and body work shop. I contacted them and yes they could get the batteries - they would take about a week to arrive and they could take us to install them right after they arrived. The price was a little less than the $XXX each - two hours of labor to install - and I told them order them and thank you very much!<br />
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The batteries - for those Roadtrek owners seeking new batteries - Lifeline GPL-4CT - 6 volt AGM deep cycle battery. Here is a XXXXX . The shop we bought them from that installed them XXX RV in XXXX, New Jersey.<br />
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The batteries came in the time stated - one week on a Thursday. We set up an appointment for the installation on the coming Monday. All was set! And then weather forecasts started saying that Monday and Tuesday in the coming week were going to have severe storms both in NY and NJ. OK. I am never happy driving the Roadtrek in the rain and absolutely not in severe storms. In that time when you would not like to wake up yet on that next day - Friday morning - this kept going through my head - Monday was not a good day to make this trip. And we called and postponed the appointment to Wednesday. The lady at XXXX that we were working with was incredibly nice - extremely helpful and had no problem moving the appointment. As it turns out the storms did come Monday and Tuesday and were more than severe - and caused a lot of damage especially in New Jersey and right in the county that this shop is located in.<br />
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Wednesday morning came. The charging LED did not come on to show the old batteries were charging when we left that morning - and was still not on over two and a half hours later when we arrived at the shop. The trip there took a long time just to get out of New York State. There are two bridges that most be crossed to do that - I just love living on an island connected to other islands before you get to mainland U.S.A. - and the first and main bridge was closed in both directions as we heard as we were on our way to it - because of a car fire. We were stopped in traffic bumper to bumper along the way and that took so long that by the time we got to the bridge - despite the traffic reports still saying the bridge was closed - we drove right across it without a problem. We called ahead to the shop to explain that we would be later than we even had expected to be.<br />
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There were various ways in New Jersey to get to this place and the fastest route takes the Garden State Parkway. It seems that while this part of the Garden State Parkway is closed to trucks, it allows RVs - and more than one website - and our asking the shop when we made the appointment about taking this parkway - said we could drive on it. With fingers crossed we did. No other RVs were to be seen but highway patrol cars passing us - we were not stopped. As we got off the parkway and were near the shop there were electric company repair trucks everywhere. Red lights were out on the roads. Large trees were down. The storm hit there HARD! <br />
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The night before we left I wrote out everything that I know specific to installing new batteries in a Roadtrek plus where all the switches were and what does what. I will include that at the end of this article. They would know all this anyway but they may never have worked on a Roadtrek before. One of the things I told them in person was that I wanted to know once the new batteries were installed that the batteries were now charging on the engine running as they are supposed to do. <br />
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When we arrived I handed that to the woman who was expecting us and we sat down to wait in their waiting room. There was one other person waiting and we started talking as we were waiting. He said that the shop we were at had no electricity and they were running on generators - still able to do the work. The big lobby was a little warm - but there were big ceiling fans that made it comfortable enough. There was a big screen TV and chairs and sofas. They had display and sales racks of RV accessories and parts. We spent the time watching the TV and walking around looking at what was on the shelves. At one point there was a loud roar of a big engine and they were working outside an open garage door to the side of this big lobby on a big Class A engine. It was interesting but the diesel fumes were getting overwhelming and were also coming into the lobby so I went outside to get some air and saw that my Roadtrek was parked in an lane outside in the parking lot on the other side of a Class A. I could not tell if they had worked on it or not. We were there for about three hours or so between waiting for the Roadtrek to be taken to be worked on to when we were told it was ready. I asked if it was charging and was told that it was all tested and was working as it should be. Skeptic as I am I went outside - started the engine and the charging LED came on when I pushed the test button. For the moment I was happy.<br />
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It was a hot day. We were in New Jersey near a restaurant we like to eat at and decided we would kill the time between lunch and dinner in a large mall and a Barnes and Nobles bookstore and a Walmart before waiting for dinner. And that is what we did.<br />
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Someone reading this I know is thinking why didn't he just install these batteries himself. The 2011 Roadtrek does not have a sliding battery drawer. The two batteries are fixed in place inside an outside access cabinet. These batteries weigh 66 pounds each. There is no way that I could lift one of these batteries much less remove the old heavy batteries and get two of these up and into place - plus there is no access to wire the cables to the back of the batteries. I am not sure how the shop did this. <br />
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When thing seem well my head starts poking me to think hmm, maybe things are not all as well as they should be. Was it the batteries that needed to be replaced - which they did anyway - or is that battery separator at the root of what has been going on. The engine battery is three years old and it is rated for five years - and that should be fine - but those early morning wake ups and your mind starts working in high gear... So I start looking things up. I start trying things. I know the new batteries are good and fine. Are they charging when the engine is running is what is bothering me. I go outside and into the Roadtrek and without the engine running I turn on the battery switch and push the test button and no engine running - the charging LED comes on. This is not supposed to happen - I think - or is it? I have a volt meter. I check the voltage on the batteries and they are fully charged - a reading of about 12.87 volts - 12.8 volts is fully charged. Is this because they are new or did the engine charge them up to that on the drive home from New Jersey. I start researching again.<br />
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This is what I learned - and should have learned reading these same documents before - the engine does not connect to charge the RV batteries if they are over 12.8 volts. They do not need to be charged and the engine does not charge them. Seems logical. If the batteries are 12.8 volts or above the C charge indicator LED will remain lit - even though no charging is taking place. (This is new to me for some reason - as I have believed from other things I have read that if charged fully the C LED will go out and leave the third up from the bottom LED lit showing that the batteries are within charged range. THAT IS NOT SO. If the batteries are 12.8 of over the C LED will be lit.) Good to know - good to pass along and I am thinking a detailed battery separator article is coming here soon.<br />
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I went out for the next several days checking the status of the battery level. Five days later - I turned the battery switch on - no engine running - and had my volt meter plugged in for actual voltage - and the C LED was no longer on. The yellow G LED was lit and this is what I had expected to see all along. The voltage in the batteries - five days later - was now 12.75 - below 12.8 - and the monitor panel indicated that. I started the engine and right away the C LED lit up as it should! Happy me!<br />
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In all of this I made a decision with Meryl to buy a spare battery separator and have it with us when we travel. This way if that ever does go bad - and they do go bad over time - we will have it with us - we can find a mechanic to put it in - and I - not we - have to worry about it any more. I am in the process of doing that now. With that I will have three of the Roadtrek weak spots covered that are not easy to just get repaired or replaced anywhere - new batteries, new macerator - and with this - a new battery separator to use when necessary.<br />
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Here are my new batteries -<br />
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Here is the list I wrote up for the install to give the shop:<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">ROADTREK </span></b><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">BATTERY</span></b><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;"> CHANGE</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">Two 6 volt deep cycle AGM Batteries in my Roadtrek are original from
Roadtrek when the Roadtrek was built at the factory in 2011. </span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">The batteries are wired in SERIES -<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>pos on one battery to neg lug on the other battery connected together
and the battery cables from the Roadtrek to the batteries are then connected to
a positive on one battery and a negative on the other battery.</span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">3.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">The battery compartment is on the outside passenger side in front of the
rear passenger tire. The square key opens the lock on the compartment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 2011 when AGM batteries started to be used
by Roadtrek the sliding battery tray was discontinued. The tray is fixed. </span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">4.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">The Roadtrek has a TRIPPLITE 750 INVERTER/CONVERTER/CHARGER. I have
been told that the Tripplite must be turned OFF while batteries are being
installed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Tripplite is located
inside the Roadtrek right behind the passenger side cargo door on the floor- it
can be seen as soon as you open the cargo door – I have removed the door that
sits in front of it. </span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">5.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">The TRIPPLITE ON/OFF switch is a slide switch on the upper right front
– OFF is the MIDDLE position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Left is
Auto/Remote the default position and right is Charge Only. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now it is set to Auto/Remote – if you want me
to put it off I will OR you can put it off.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After batteries are installed return the position to Auto/Remote. </span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">6.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">Dip switches on the TRIPPLITE were set by Roadtrek for AGM batteries. </span></b></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">7.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">The </span></b></span><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">Battery</span></b><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;"> Disconnect switch is inside the Roadtrek – at the
entry door just past the passenger front door – it is on the wall below the
ceiling on the right side of the monitor panel. It is OFF at this time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just push and let go to turn it on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The test switch on the other side of the
monitor panel will show a column of LEDs for battery charge. Turn the battery
on if needed. </span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT"; mso-fareast-font-family: "CaslonOldFace BT";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">8.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span></b><span dir="LTR"><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">There is a 12 volt DC socket to the left of the monitor panel to plug
in a 12 volt voltage plug in meter. </span></b></span><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;">Battery</span></b><b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt;"> Switch must be on to use this. </span></b></div>
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<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8801217063323814316.post-8000968782139599392019-05-24T22:05:00.000-04:002019-05-24T22:05:01.679-04:00VILLAGE SCENE RV PARK, Hatfield, PennsylvaniaWhen we went to have the macerator replaced at the Roadtrek dealer/service center that we bought the Roadtrek at 8 years ago in April, we had to find a place to stay in the Roadtrek the night before. The appointment was for first thing in the morning when they opened and we could not do what we have almost always done in the past when we went there for service - leave our home in the morning of the appointment and drive the two and a half hours to get there at around 11 am for them to do and complete the work the rest of the day. We could have stayed outside the service shop as they do have a 30 amp outlet to plug into and we would have had electricity overnight - but because the macerator was broken what we would not have was a toilet. The dealer's showroom closes at 8:00 pm and after that we would have a problem. I started to look for campgrounds and there are a few in the area. One that I found was off in a wooded area and when I checked Google maps to see the route from there to the service shop, there was always a closed road - along the route. That was not going to work out at all - and I started wondering if I would ever find a campground for this excursion - even for just one night. Then I came across a most unlikely type of RV park - that is actually an age "55+ Manufactured Home Community and RV Park". I know that to some this brings up in their mind the image of a trailer park - but by the photos on their website and with Google Maps satellite view I was able to see the entire place - and it looked nice. The name is Village Scene (RV Park). <br />
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This is back now in February - and the appointment is not until almost the end of April. I sent them an email and asked about availability for the night before our appointment. I got a very nice and prompt reply letting me know that they had one site available for us to stay in. If I wanted it to be held we would have to send a check for the one night stay and the site would be reserved for us. While they have mostly permanently installed mobile homes and what I would say are called "Park Model" homes that are pre-fab homes, they also have some regular RV sites with 20, 30, and 50 amp electric service, water hook up, and sewer hook up. They do not have cable TV hook up - that is on site for permanent residents that arrange on their own for the service to be hooked up to their homes. They do have wifi across the park. The most important thing I had to confirm - though I know that I saw it on their website - was there a 24 hour access restroom - and I had hoped to have a site that was close to it. There is a 24 hour/7 days a week rest room building (that also has a laundry in it) and it is available to anyone who does not have those facilities on board their RV. Well, for this trip, that was us - and it was confirmed to me that it was indeed there and open - but the only site they had was not right next to it but four aisles away. That was no problem for us at all - as we have no issue with doing a little walking.<br />
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The RV park was very nice. The resident's trailers, mobile homes, RVs, whatever one would call them are all nice, well cared for, landscaping around them - flower beds, etc. While we were there we saw big Class A RVs and also large travel trailers. When we arrived (later than we expected as I explained in our recent Day 1 article about this trip we were greeted by a very nice woman in the office who was expecting us. She had put an orange cone in our space just in case we got there after the office closed at 4:00 pm. Our site was right across from the office. We were paid in full and she came outside to show us where our site was. We explained that we would be leaving for the rest of the afternoon and coming back that night after dinner - there was no problem at all with that. <br />
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We only saw a few residents and no one took any notice of us. The site was a pull in, back out site - in other words the connections were on the drivers side and the opening of the site was such that puling in would put the connections where they needed to be. There was a mobile home next to the site so it was not a pull through - to get out of the space you just back out into the aisle. All sites are paved and the the aisles (or lanes) are asphalt. As we always do when we get to a campground, we pull in and find where the Roadtrek will be level. This site was half paved with a concrete slab on one side and the other side the pavement was asphalt. This made the two slightly off in height from each other - but with the Roadtrek as it is smaller than most RVs that these sites are designed for, it was possible to drive around back and forth - adjusting this way or that - and on a slight diagonal I got the Roadtrek level. We marked where the tires were with our reflectors for this purpose and also checked voltage and polarity at the outlet box - all good! We backed out and were off for the day.<br />
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The restrooms were just where they were shown on the map. They were clean - though a bit old fashioned - toilet stalls, a shower stall, and a sink. You must bring your own paper towel and soap. It did take us a little bit - in each of our respective restrooms to figure out how the lights went on. I brought a flashlight with me and found that while the lights were not on any motion detector they had a switch box with buttons that were timers. Once you got the lights on with any of the buttons you could set it to how long the lights would stay on - a little different from what we have come across but just fine. The walk to the building was no problem - even in the dark.<br />
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What I was very impressed with - and maybe it was because we were right across from the office was that the WIFI was exceptionally good! We were given a brochure when we arrived with the rules of the park and the wifi codes. There were two for two wifi units that cover the grounds. One was based in the office - and we had strong and good wifi in the site we were in.<br />
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We were only there one night. The location is straight off the exit ramp from the PA Turnpike north/south extension, a turn down a street with many businesses along it including stores, fast food, and supermarkets and knowing the street to turn down - and the help of the GPS we got right there in the day and had no problem finding our way back in the dark at night. The brochure we were given suggests where to park RVs in the city of Philadelphia and they are not that far and not at all like being in the city - to stay at to visit Philadelphia. This is located in the middle of a nice residential suburban neighborhood. There are no fences around the Park and no gate. The people living full time here have mailboxes in front of their mobile homes and the mailman comes directly to each to deliver mail. <br />
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While this park is for 55+ that is only for residents. Children and families are welcome coming in to temporarily stay nightly, weekly, or monthly. There are no facilities in the way of a playground, swimming pool, or anything else like that. This is strictly stay in your RV or sit outside in your site - or leave the park and go exploring. This area is about an hour and a half from the PA Dutch Country in Lancaster County by way of the PA Turnpike.<br />
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We were both very pleased with this RV park. The electric service was good. The television using the over the air antenna was also very good and all of the major networks came in clearly as well as a number of other channels. We did not even put up the antenna but had good reception with the antenna flat on the roof. We both felt very welcome! Staff was nice from our first email contact through our stay. We would stay here again if we had to be in this area again. It was also very reasonably priced. I tend not to like to give prices because they always change from year to year but we only paid $40 for the night. That may be because we reserved the site early in the year - as the rate is now listed at $44 a night. Still a great price! This is the lowest we have paid for a campground in about five years. And this is no "trailer park" - this is a nice place for a night or two. Please note that they do not take any credit or debit cards. One must pay by cash or by check.<br />
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Village Scene RV Park is located at<span style="color: darkred;"><span style="font-family: georgia, palatino, 'book antiqua', 'palatino linotype', serif;"><i> </i><span style="color: black;">2151 Koffel Road,</span></span></span><span style="font-family: georgia, palatino, 'book antiqua', 'palatino linotype', serif;"> Hatfield, PA 19440 and their phone number is 215-362-6030. <a href="https://www.villagesceneinfo.com/rv-park-accommodations" target="_blank">Click here for their RV Park webpage.</a></span><br />
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<br />Writerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06664259206096691320noreply@blogger.com0