Living in the Roadtrek - Hooking Up

Camping season is starting and I thought that I would give you some of the basics of hooking up a Roadtrek when you get to a campground. Pictured below is a typical campground site. This one is a site at Old Mill Stream Campground in Lancaster, PA. Here sites are gravel. There is a post with the 110 volt electric connections and the cable television connection. Next to that post is a pipe coming up from the ground with a fresh water spigot to connect your fresh water hose.


When you reserve a campsite what is included on that site depends upon what the campground offers and how complete a site you want. Not all campgrounds have cable television connections. Those that do may not have cable at all sites. Not all campgrounds have a sewer connection at every site. Those that don't generally have a central dump station. A basic site includes water and electricity. A full hook up site includes water, electric, and sewer. The cable television connection varies from campground to campground and may or may not be included at every site and may or may not be charged additionally for. What you pay for a site depends upon what you want at that site. If there is sewer connection at your site, there will be a closed pipe connection as shown below. You unscrew the cap, and dump into the hole. There will be a future article about dumping your tanks.

The Roadtrek has a 30 amp electric system. This means that a maximum of 3o amps of 110 volt power can be put into the Roadtrek. There is a thick electric cord with a 30 amp plug on the end. This is stored in the middle outside storage compartment, and comes out through an opening in the end of the storage compartment wall that comes out to a smaller, rear compartment that is open to the ground. You can see the storage compartments in this photo.

Below, you see the plug of the electric cord stored in the plastic liner of the opening between the two compartments.

This liner is designed to closee around the cord to prevent anything from coming into the inside of your storage compartment - like water, bugs, mice... This little hole has been dubbed the "mouse hole" by Roadtrek owners and it is often difficult to move the cord through that hole whether going in or out. You can see the other side of the mouse hole in the photo to the right. There is a cover that snaps into place when the cord is put away. When pulling the cord out, you flip this door up. When we first started we could not understand why the cord was not moving through until we got down and looked at what we thought should be the opening and discovered that there is a door there. You can also see in this photo where the water hose connects to the Roadtrek from the campground fresh water spigot. The water valve handle that you see there is part of the outdoor shower.

So, after you pull into your campground site, you are going to connect your 11o volt electricity first. You open the two compartment doors that you saw in the photo above, and pull out enough electric cord to reach the electric box at the campground site. You want to pull into the site so that the box is on the side of your electric cord. There is about 30 feet of cord. You can purchase an extension cord - specifically for 30 amp RVs that can extend this length if you need to. You should not need this at a campground. Ready to connect?

WAIT!

The electric boxes at campgrounds do not always work as they should. There may be a problem in the wiring or insufficient or too much voltage coming through the outlet. Any of this may seriously damage your RVs electric system if you plug into it. So what do you do? You test it before connecting. What you will need is a polarity tester which is found in most electric departments of big box stores and stores like Walmart. This is just a regular plug with led lights on it. If the LEDs light up in the correct pattern - which is shown right on the plug, you are good - and this means that the ground and the wires have been wired to the outlet correctly. To do this you will also need a 15 amp to 30 amp adapter. This test plug is a 15 amp house plug. The outlet that you want to test is a 30 amp outlet. The plug on a 30 amp outlet is much different and looks very much like the large plug that is on your household dryer. (Do not mistake these for the same plug - the one on your dryer is for a 220 volt line.) Any RV supply store including Walmart in the RV section sells an adapter. You want a 15 amp female socket to 30 amp male plug adapter. You plug your tester into the adapter and the plug of the adapter into the 30 amp outlet in the campground site electric box.

It is time to talk about what you will see when you open the door of the electric box. Most boxes will be set up for three types of amperage service - 20 amp (house type socket), 30 amp, and 50 amp. There will be three sockets inside and each will have its own circuit breaker switch. The 30 amp outlet is generally in the middle. It will have holes that match your plug and will be the same size around as your plug. The 50 amp outlet is for a much larger RV. There is a way to use that outlet for your 30 amp RV if there is no other, but I am not going to make this anymore confusing right now. The 20 amp outlet could also be used, but you will not have enough amperage in your Roadtrek to use all of the electrical appliances without tripping that circuit breaker - so for the moment - forget that too. You want the outlet that matches your Roadtrek plug. There is ONLY 110/120 volts coming out of any of these outlets - it is the amperage that changes. This is just like the current in your house, and can give you a serious shock if you are not as careful as you are plugging a plug into the wall of your house - but no more so. Before plugging anything in, make sure all circuit breakers are OFF. Even the ones you will not be using.

Now, when you are ready to test with your polarity tester, you plug into the 30 amp outlet with your tester connected through the adapter and then turn on the circuit breaker. Look at the result, and turn off the circuit breaker. If there is a problem with the reading, stop right there and go to the campground office and let them know. You need to be moved to another site or someone from the campground needs to come and fix the outlet.

The next test you will make is to check that the correct amount of voltage is coming out of the outlet. Again, you will need your adapter. You need a voltage meter. I found out that other than in RV supply stores, these are not easy to find and can be expensive. What I did was buy an item found at most big box stores called a "Kill A Watt". This is a multi-meter sold to check how much electricity different appliances use in your home. When it is plugged between an appliance and an outlet, it will show how many watts are being used by that appliance and since you pay your electric bill per watt you consume you can find out why your electric bills are so high. BUT this is not what we want this little meter for. If you plug this unit just into an outlet, one of the readings it will give you is how many volts are coming through. It has a digital readout. So I take my adapter, plug that socket into the Kill A Watt plug and then plug the 30 amp end of the adapter into the campground 30 amp outlet. Turn on the circuit breaker switch and look at the readout. The reading should be no lower than 110 and no higher than 132 - though you really do not want to be over 130. Turn off the circuit breaker and unplug the adapter from the electric box. If the reading is not correct, again, go to the campground office. Plugging into this outlet will damage your RV.

Everything OK with the tests? Then you are ready to hook up your power line. But WAIT!

Now, what? How complicated is this?, you must be thinking. You could just plug your power cable into the box, but it is a good idea to have something in your electric line that will protect your RV just in case. What you need is an RV power protection device. There are two popular makes - Surge Guard and Progressive. Both do the same job. Some prefer one over the other. There are models that can be wired permanently into your RV electric system and there are portable models that simply plug into the campground outlet and you plug your power cord into the protector outlet. These are not cheap and they are much, much more than a surge protector like what you plug your computer into at home. You can purchase these directly from the companies that make them or you can find them at RV supply stores. We chose the Surge Guard but only for convenience in ordering as it is the one that is sold at Camping World.

Above you see the Surge Guard plugged into the power outlet of the campground and the power cord of my Roadtrek. You also see that the electric box has your space number on it. You cannot mistake which box is the one you are supposed to plug into. At some campgrounds your box will be next to the box for the next space. Here there is only one box.

The power protector unit is going to monitor the voltage coming out of the box. Believe it or not, just because it tested correctly when you checked with your volt meter does not mean that conditions do not change in the voltage at the campground and the voltage go too low or too high. Also it will protect from spikes and surges due to lighting strikes. This is a must have. Repairing your RVs electric system and replacing your TV and electronics is far more expensive than the $300 plus that one of these sells for. You can buy a lock box that will prevent the theft of your portable power unit. Watch this video about the Surge Guard Power Protector.

BEFORE CONNECTING YOUR ROADTREK TO POWER MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCH INSIDE THE ROADTREK IS ON!

 The Battery Disconnect Switch is on the above panel located to the right of the side Roadtrek door and it is the switch furthest to the RIGHT. When the switch is ON the red indicator light on the right of the switch lights. The switch says "Battery" and Battery Disconnect switch as it is known, is a poor name for what is does.

When you have your power cord into the protector unit and then plug that into the campground box, you turn on the circuit breaker in the campground box. With the Surge Guard on my model an LED comes on to show that it is connected. There is a two and one half minute delay until power is sent to the RV. This is a safety feature to protect your air conditioner. After the very long two and a half minute wait, a second LED lights and there is a click. There is now 110 volt power in the Roadtrek. You can now run anything in your Roadtrek from the 110 volt outlets. If you exceed 30 amps you will trip the circuit breaker - likely both inside your Roadtrek and outside in the box. Everything that you plug in takes away some of those amps. Most electric appliances have the number of amps it will use printed somewhere on it.

Now you have your AC current running from the campground. If you have cable service at the campground you next will connect your Roadtrek to the cable connection on the electric post. We have been at sites where the cable connection is split and we connect right next to where the next door RV is connected. This is fine. There is a box in the rearmost outside side compartment with a coaxial connector. You must supply your own cable and you can buy this anywhere. It is the same coax cable used for your cable TV in your home. Open the box in the Roadtrek compartment. You can see the box here on the right. Screw one end of the cable onto this connector. You can get push on adapters for these connectors and they work a lot easier but the screw on connector is more secure. Next, connect the other end of the cable to the campground connector. That is all you need to do to connect. To use the cable you must go into your Roadtrek, make sure the A/B switch that switches from rooftop antenna to cable is switched correctly, and turn on the TV. Set the settings on the TV to SOURCE: CABLE and then scan for channels. Always scan for channels. You do not need a special cable box like you do at home. The campground is converting the cable companies decoded digital signal to an analog signal that does not need a converter box at each TV. Do not be surprised when you see that the signal through the cable is Analog.

Electric and Cable all Hooked up - Campground End

Electric and Cable all Hooked up - Roadtrek End

Notice that the wires come down through the bottom opening of the compartment allowing the compartment to be closed and locked. Feed them down and through when making your connections.

Now, you have all of the electric hooked up and we when we stay at campgrounds, this is where we stop. We fill our two water tanks at home before we leave and refill them as they empty along the trip from the campground fresh water spigot. We do this because we come and go from the campground every day to sight-see. When we leave in the morning to see the sights or visit and attraction, all we need to do to unhook to leave is to unplug and put the wires away for the day. When you unplug - always click the circuit breaker in the campground box OFF before pulling the electric plug. This is just a safety precaution. If we also had the water connected it would take a lot more time to disconnect the hose, drain the water from the hose, and coil it up to put it away.

If you would like to hook up to the campground water supply the process is simple. What you need:

25 foot drinking water hose - these hoses are specially made with out lead and chemicals in the hose that can be harmful. The hoses are generally white in color with blue markings. Make sure the packaging of the hose states "Safe for drinking water". You may want one or more shorter lengths of hose also - they start at 4 feet, go to 10 feet, and go to 25 feet.

Pressure Regulator Valve - limits water pressure to no more than 40 psi so that the RV plumbing will not be damaged. Inexpensive ones can be found at all RV supply stores and Walmart. There are better valves with gauges and that can adjust different pressures. Your choice. We have been using a brass one that is found at Walmart.

In-line Hose Water Filter - optional - Available at RV supply stores and Walmart. This is a blue plastic filter that has screw on connections at each end. It comes with a reusable flex connector. You can buy packages of refills or just purchase the same kit again when the filter is dirty. You should get a year or more out of one of these filters depending on use.

The Roadtrek came with a snap on hose connector set screwed on to the City Water Fill. These are available at RV Supply stores also. You may not want to use one from a garden store, as it may not be lead free and drinking water safe. If you have one, snap off the end that connects to the hose and screw that to the end of your hose.

Connect your water connection AFTER connecting your electricity. You don't want to be standing in water puddles while you are plugging in your electric connections.

To hook up to the campground water - called "City Water" - you are going to connect from your Roadtrek City Water fill connection to the campground fresh water (or potable water) spigot. I use an additional four foot hose just to make it easier with all of the interconnections to be made. I carry two ten foot hoses, one four foot hose, and a twenty five foot hose. You will rarely, if ever, need all of these together (though at my house to reach the outside water faucet I need an additional 25 foot hose that we keep at home). You should also carry spare hose washers to keep the connections from leaking.

I connect the water filter connection to the campground water faucet. To the filter I connect the four foot hose and be sure to connect the filter with the arrows in the direction of the flow. At the end of the four foot hose I connect the pressure regulator. The pressure regulator must be connected in the right direction also and there are arrows to follow on the regulator. The ten or twenty five foot hose then goes on to the end of the pressure regulator and the other end of that hose goes on the the City Water connection of the Roadtrek which is pictured to the right. Both parts of the snap on cap are in place in this photo and you can also see a plug that is supplied with this connector by Roadtrek to plug into the end to keep road dirt out of your water supply. The connector makes this connection easier so that you do not have to reach into this tight space and screw the end of the hose to the inlet. So far this snap connector has not leaked. Once you have the hoses connected. You need to make sure that the City Water VALVE is in the correct position. That valve is pictured below in the top center of the photo and this is the correct position for the valve to be in to let water flow into your plumbing and to your sink and toilet. If this valve is in its other position it will not flow water into your plumbing but will fill your rear and eventually your front fresh water tank. I learned this the hard way on the first night we had the Roadtrek and watched as water overflowed my rear tank and shot all over the ground out of the relief valve. (There is a better way to fill your fresh water tanks - use the openings - one in the side of the driver's door frame and one in the frame of the passenger side, rear, cargo door frame. You just push a hose into the hole and let the water flow in until it comes up to the top of the opening. Shut it off quickly or stand back to not get wet.) When using a City Water connection you DO NOT turn on your water pump. If you are using water from your tanks, that is when you use the water pump.

That is it! You are completely hooked up.

Newer Roadtreks cannot and do not remain hooked up to the sewer connection at the campground site. The newer Roadtreks have a macerator which grinds up sewage and do not use a gravity feed hose to flow sewage from the tanks to the dump hole. The macerator pumps the waste out and uses a much thinner hose than a standard RV dump hose. With newer Roadtreks - post 2007, I believe - you only open the sewer hole when you are ready to dump. Older Roadtreks have a standard gravity dump system. With these you can connect your sewer hose to the dump hole, open your grey tank valve (not toilet waste but just water from the sink and shower drains) and let water flow as you use it. You do not open your black tank valve until your are ready to dump as you do not want your black tank - toilet waste tank - to ever dry out. Some caution about sewer gases coming into the RV if you connect to the sewer and leave it that way while you are using the RV. Others say there is no problem and no odor.

DE-WINTERIZING AND SANITIZING THE FRESH WATER TANKS

When you are sure the cold weather has past and there will be no more freezing nights (or days), it is time to de-winterize your Roadtrek. We waited until the third week in April. Despite the warm days in the beginning of April - some way beyond normal, there were a few near freezing cold nights mixed in. We we had no reason not to wait, so we waited just to be sure.

The process of de-winterizing the Roadtrek is easy. You are just removing the anti-freeze that you put into the water lines and plumbing when you winterized as the cold weather is setting in. The special RV anti-freeze that you use to winterize is non-toxic, but that does not mean that you want to drink it. You want to remove every bit of that pink stuff from your plumbing.

We were given instructions about what to do from the gentleman at dealer service who taught us how to winterize the Roadtrek. I went online and looked at several videos and read several sets of instructions to see how these compared and they were similar. What we decided to do was combine some of the better sounding ideas into our process. The following is what we did.

DE-WINTERIZING:

1. Keep the Hot Water Tank BYPASS in BYPASS MODE to start.

2. Turn the Interior water tank valve to SUMMER MODE. This is a red handle valve located in the lower cabinet (under the front of the bed area) where the hot water heater and water pump are located. The handle should be parallel with the pipe that it is on when in SUMMER MODE. This allows water to flow from the rear interior tank into the front exterior tank. (THIS IS FOR ROADTREK 190s ONLY). Also turn the small black valve to the left of red handle so that it is in line with the pipe. This is the interior tank transfer valve. See the two valves below:

3. Fill the fresh water tanks with fresh potable (drinking) water using your drinking water hose(s) connected to your house outside hose spigot. If you have a Roadtrek 190, as we do, you have TWO fresh water tanks. One in the front and one in the back. One called the exterior tank (front). The other called the interior tank (rear).

4. With fresh water in the tanks, and still leaving the HOT WATER BYPASS IN BYPASS POSITION, turn on your Battery Disconnect Switch and your Water Pump Switch. (If your batteries are low, connect your Roadtrek to shore power using an exterior outlet at your house or turn on the generator. If you need to connect to 11o volt outside power, make this connection before you start doing anything with water.)

5. Turn on the cold water side of the sink. The water pump will rumble a bit, air will shoot out the faucet, and then water will flow. Pink water will be coming out. Allow this to run until the water is clear. Next turn the sink faucet handle to hot and allow the hot side (which will be cold) to flow with water. Again this will be pink. Allow this to run until you do not see pink and the water is clear. Shut off the sink.

6. Repeat Step Five with the shower. Open the drain plate in the floor, make sure the shower stopper is open and point the shower into the floor drain. Have a partner turn on the cold water handle of the shower. Again, pink will flow until clear water comes out. Do the same with the hot water handle. Shut off.

7. Flush the toilet. Pink will swirl around the bowl and clear water will start to flow.

8. If your Roadtrek is a model with a bathroom sink, repeat Step Five with the bathroom sink.

9. Repeat Step Five with the outside shower.

10. NOW - Turn your HOT WATER BYPASS VALVES so that they all are pointing toward the aisle. There are three valves. As you can just about see in this photo there is one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom. Yes the one in the middle is in a different position than the other two (the one on the pipe that goes up and down). It also needs to point to the aisle.

Now some are going to question why we waited until this step to set the hot water heater back into the system from bypass and the reason is this. The hot water heater tank fills with six gallons of water and at the start of this process there is antifreeze in the water pump and the lines leading around and into the hot water heater (if it is not in bypass). Why put that antifreeze into the hot water tank when you need to get it out. So, by leaving the hot water heater in bypass until NOW, you have cleared the antifreeze from those lines before the hot water heater. My next step may surprise some as well.

11. Turn off the WATER PUMP.

12. Take you fresh water hose and connect it to the Roadtrek City Water Intake connection on the outside of the Roadtrek in the rear side compartment. MAKE SURE YOU ATTACH A WATER PRESSURE REGULATOR TO THE HOSE BEFORE ATTACHING IT TO THE ROADTREK.

13. Turn on the water at your house outside faucet and send water through the hose and into the Roadtrek.

14. Go inside the Roadtrek and turn on the cold water faucet in the sink. Water will now flow from the city water line and not through the shut off water pump and will flow through our sink faucet into your sink. This is just to see that the water is connected outside correctly and water is flowing as it should be.

15. Move the sink handle to HOT. DO NOT TURN ON THE HOT WATER HEATER SWITCH THERE IS NO NEED. (We don't want hot water, we just want water flowing through the hot water tank now and into your faucets.) There will be a great burst of air that will come from the faucet. It will take a little while for the six gallon hot water tank to fill and water to start coming out with any force from the sink faucet with the handle on HOT. Be patient. It will come. And remember it will be cold water. Check to see if the water is pink. It may be. There may have been some antifreeze in the bypass pipes. It should very quickly run clear.

16. With the water still running through the city water connection - connected to your house - repeat Step Five above with the toilet, the inside shower, and the outside shower.

17. Shut off the water from your house and disconnect the hose from the city water line. You have finished de-winterizing the Roadtrek. Shut off your battery disconnect switch.

Yes, this is all there is to de-winterizing. BUT your fresh water tanks have been sitting for several months without water in them and mold and bacteria can form in the tanks during this time. What you need to do now is SANITIZE the fresh water tanks. And the procedure for this follows.


SANITIZING THE FRESH WATER TANK(S):

What you will need:

- Chlorine Bleach (Clorox or any equivalent)
- A Funnel (we made one up using a kitchen funnel and attached a piece of vinyl tube to the end that will easily get into the door fills for the fresh water tanks.
- A Measuring Cup

1. Open the driver's door water intake hole and place the end of the funnel into the hole.

2. Measure ONE HALF CUP of Bleach into the cup.

3. Pour the bleach into a gallon bottle and top off with water. Pour the water/bleach slowly into the funnel and down the hole. Do not let this splash on you or allow the end of the funnel to come out of the intake hole in the door. (This is why we made up the funnel with the tube. And because we are both relatively short, I stood on a step stool to make sure I was well above the opening to get the bleach in and straight down.

4. If you have a Roadtrek 190, as we have, repeat STEPS ONE, TWO, AND THREE at the back cargo door water intake. You have now added one half cup of bleach each to each of the two fresh water tanks.

5. Connect your fresh water hose to your house and top off (fill to the top) the two water tanks.

6. Just for a little mixing, I drove the Roadtrek down the driveway stopping quickly every few feet to shake up the water in the tanks and did the same driving back up the driveway. The Roadtrek bounced on its springs a few times and the water mixed in the tanks.

7. Turn on the water pump. Open each facet - sink - hot on, off then cold, inside shower - hot on, off then cold, flush the toilet, outside shower - hot on, off then cold. Allow all but the toilet to run until you smell bleach in the water coming out. It should be a very noticeable odor in the water. NO NEED TO TURN YOUR HOT WATER HEATER ON - WATER FLOWS INTO AND OUT OF THAT TANK ANYWAY. THE HOT WATER WILL JUST BE COLD.

8. LET THE BLEACH SIT IN THE TANKS FOR A FULL FOUR HOURS.

9. After four hours, drain your fresh water tank(s). To do this in my Roadtrek 190 P, we opened the low point drain valve on the front fresh water tank that is located right under the rear corner of the driver's door under the chassis. On our Roadtrek there is a little black cap that is unscrewed off. It looks like the cap to a shampoo bottle. Water will start running out as soon as you loosen the cap. I understand that on some older Roadtreks there is no cap but there is an actual valve to turn. We do one more thing to drain the tanks as the low point drain is slow. We turn on the battery disconnect switch, turn on the water pump, and turn on the outside shower. This will run water with force down onto the ground and empty the tanks. (With the outdoor shower and the tank drain open it took about 15 to 20 minutes to empty the tanks.) IF you decide to use the outside shower, as the water starts to slow down, go inside immediately and TURN OFF THE WATER PUMP. You do not want the water pump to ever run dry. Water will continue to flow out of the low point tank drain and a little will still flow out of the pipes through the outside shower. The water at the tank drain will come down to a drip and then stop. REPLACE THE DRAIN CAP. (You will get wet during Step 9! Also be aware this is water with bleach coming out - if it gets on your clothing it can take the color out so be prepared - and don't get splashed in the eyes!)

Note - with your Roadtrek water tanks set to SUMMER MODE (see above De-Winterizing #2 with photo), the rear fresh water tank flows into the front fresh water tank. You are emptying both tanks at the same time with this Step 9.

10. Check your monitor panel inside (Battery Disconnect ON). Press the TEST button and you should see Fresh 1 and Fresh 2 at the bottom EMPTY LED. (If you have only one tank as some Roadtreks do then you will see Fresh 1 empty.)

11. Fill your tank(s) with clean, drinking water again.

We had a problem at this point. The tanks and pipes were filled with air. We filled the front tank first and when we went to fill the rear tank, we could not get water to go in without immediately rushing back out at us. We tried several things and eventually got the water in the tank - what we tried - partially drained the front tank - opened the faucets to allow air out - moved the Summer Mode handle to Winter mode to isolate the rear tank - poured water in with a funnel. I cannot say what finally got what had to be a huge air bubble to clear, but the tank started filling with the hose in the opening and we got it filled.

11. You are going to repeat Step 7 again, but this time you are smelling for no bleach smell. Let the clean water flow for several minutes at each faucet - hot and cold separately - until you smell NO bleach. If you continue to smell bleach you are going to need to repeat Steps 10 and 11 again. We found the bleach smell to be hardly noticeable after several minutes and then not really noticeable at all. The hot side tended to continue to have the bleach smell longer.

13. Drain the tanks again repeating STEP 9.

14. At this point you are done. We decided to fill the fresh water tanks again in preparation for a trip that we were taking a week later.

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Notice that nowhere did I talk about emptying the grey or black waste tanks. There is antifreeze and water in them. This can be dumped the first time you dump or you might dump them now. If you do dump your waste tanks, pour a gallon of water down the toilet so that the black tank does not sit dry. As we wanted to start out our next trip with empty tanks, we did dump the grey and the black waste tanks using the built in macerator. A great deal of pink came out with the water. This was the antifreeze that we had put into the waste tanks to protect them when we winterized.

How long did this all take - de-winterizing and sanitizing? It took us the better part of three full afternoons. One reason is that this was our first time doing this. Another reason is that there are steps that require waiting. We wanted to start the sanitizing so that we could drain the tanks right at the four hours. (You probably could leave this overnight.) So we did the de-winterizing on day 1, the bleach went into the tanks and those tanks were drained and refilled with fresh water on day 2, and we did Step 10 above and onward on day 3. This will all go much quicker next year. For one thing we have all the steps down (right here). The other thing we encountered is that we are dealing with 60 plus year old outdoor plumbing connections at my house that leak. We spent some time during all this reducing the leaking to a minimum. We also spent time connecting enough white drinking water safe hoses together to reach the 85 feet to our Roadtrek on the driveway from the back of our house where the leaky water spigot is. Of course, each day we stopped those got disconnected, rolled up and put away. The bubble in the rear fresh water tank also took some time to do battle with. Hopefully, that was a one time thing - as it has never happened to us before (though we have never had the Roadtrek completely empty of fresh water before and needed to refill it right then). I do have some ideas about making the filling process of the fresh water tanks easier. I will be working on that and share with you all what I come up with.